Question about 2002 Toyota Tundra

3 Answers

2002 Toyota Tundra shaking and flashing check engine light

When I accelerate sometimes the check engine light will go off. Then it will come back on and start flashing. Other times when trying to accelerating from a complete stop, the truck will harding move forward. This only happened when I drove it about 5 miles to my mechanic. I am afraid to drive it anywhere because of the shaking. I don't want to make anything worse by driving the vehicle. After 4 hours of testing codes the mechanic came back with nothing even though a bunch of codes came up when they hooked the truck up to there code detector. I am into them for 4 to 5 hours of labor time. They are telling me that I may need to take the truck to a Toyota dealership. Please help with any ideas or suggestions. I have not had any service done prior to the shaking and no new tires put on. If that helps.

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  • 11 more comments 
  • Hi Andrea, I would like to know more about the shaking? Does it come at a particular speed? Is it from the front or the rear? Does the engine shake as if maybe an engine mounting is broken. If you accelerate slowly is the shaking evident or as bad as when accelerating fast. Can you feel the shaking through the steering wheel or is it evident somewhere else? What fault codes are showing up on the engine analysis? What engine is fitted into the vehicle? Is it automatic or manual transmission? Lets get together on this and answer my questions so we can pin point the problems. Regards John 

  • Andrea W Nov 01, 2012

    I feel like a total idiot, but the problem is now solved. I let my truck sit with hardly an gas in it which my father has told me never to do. My mechanic ran diagnostics. There was a something causing the engine to misfire, but the reason for the shaking was because of buildup of gasoline particles in the fuel line. They flushed the fuel system for me and added a strong additive to the fuel tank. I was told to put in super premium gas just once after I run the current full tank down. Lets just say I learned a costly lesson about making sure a vehicle has gas in it of at least 1/4 or 1/2 tank if you park it for a few weeks in the garage. Yes, I feel like complete idiot, but I did learn my lesson. If the shaking starts again my mechanic told me to go to a Toyota dealership because they didn't find anything else wrong with the truck. I should have told them about letting it sit with no gas at the beginning before they started working on it. Happy to say the truck is running smoothly again. Thanks for all the help!

  • yadayada
    yadayada Nov 01, 2012

    Premium fuel is not required, whomever told you that is wrong, it can and will cause cold starting problems using premium fuel. Trust me on this. Just run the 87 octane

  • yadayada
    yadayada Nov 01, 2012

    Please rate the help of the experts who do this for free on there own time.

  • Andrea W Nov 01, 2012

    Sorry but I have a dumb question. What do you mean by 87 octane? Is it regular grade or mid level grade? The mechanic told me to use a tank of gas that has no ethanol in it.

  • fordexpert Nov 01, 2012

    Good luck finding gas without the Ethanol. The 87 Octane is one of the lowest ranked fuel available. The higher the Octane, the better the fuel. An 87 would be a cheap regular, though I think they make an 86. Now if you see a Bifuel Emblem on the truck, or look behind the gasflap to see if it is a Flexfuel. I have hear than the opposite is true for Flex fuel,E85 type systems. Once in awhile you need to use E85, but ONLY if it is a flexfuel engine.

  • yadayada
    yadayada Nov 01, 2012

    The octane of fuel has nothing to do with it being better, it is the rate that the fuel burns in the cylinders, high compression engines need higher octane to avoid spark knock in older cars. Using higher octane fuel than the manufacturer recommends will cause hard start issue in the cooler months. FYI all.

  • yadayada
    yadayada Nov 01, 2012

    But as far as what Andrea W asked, 87 octane is called regular unleaded gas.

  • yadayada
    yadayada Nov 01, 2012

    Wow I just can't believe that our experts here think premium fuel is better, it is just higher octane and is intended for cars that have very high perfromcane engines like GTR nissan's and Corvette's to name a few, these engines run high compression ratio engines and the slower burning fuel is required to take advantage of that and other performace related engine modifictuions..

  • yadayada
    yadayada Nov 01, 2012

    Enough said.

  • fordexpert Nov 02, 2012

    Its a fact that any Ford vehicle I have owned with a fuel computer gets better fuel economy the instant I change to Premium. In the old days of Leaded fuel, the Race blend(Available adjacent to our track) and the Aviation Blend consistently produced better Mileage. This is also verified by the reduced Mileage of Alcohol additives which do not have the power of the unaltered fuel. You get lower Mileage in many cars with stock engines by using Alcohol added fuels. And as Octane drops over time, if you start out with a higher rated fuel, you will end up with something usuable. For the dimes you pay extra for Premium, you don't need to depend on Stabile.

  • paul_cohello
    paul_cohello Nov 26, 2012

    Thank you thank you thank you!!!

  • paul_cohello
    paul_cohello Nov 26, 2012

    Thank youThank youThank youThank you!!!

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  • Toyota Master
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If you have the Code numbers written anywhere, you can include them on your message to Fixya.

Have you filled up on gas lately? Now the people at Autozone, Oreilys, and Advance autoparts will scan your vehicle for free.

You are smart not to drive and make matters possibly worse. And the Repair shop you went to is correct in sending you somewhere with better testing apparatus then they have. The onboard diagnostic system does not catch everything and a different machine should be hooked up.

There are only a few things to try without testing tools. If the truck is driven and starts to shake, put the truck in Neutral and let it roll with your foot off the gas. If the shaking stops and the truck rolls smoothly to coast, the wheels and axles should be good.

If this is an automatic, check the fluid level. The only cheap part to look at would be the throttle position sensor. Especially if one of the defect Codes pointed to this part.

If you have a off/on switch on the traction control, turn it off and see if it helps. Some are made to affect engine RPM when the wheels do not spin at the same speed.

Posted on Oct 31, 2012

  • 2 more comments 
  • Andrea W Nov 01, 2012

    Letting the truck sit without any gas in it for two weeks caused the problem. I sure feel like an idiot for letting the vehicle sit without gas in it when I know better.

  • fordexpert Nov 01, 2012

    Your gas should not have turned so quick. You may need to add a product called "HEAT" which draws water out of the system.

  • yadayada
    yadayada Nov 01, 2012

    FORDEXPERT, GAS HAS A RATED SELF LIFE OF 90 DAYS, AFTER THAT IT STARTE TO BREAK DOWN.

  • yadayada
    yadayada Nov 01, 2012

    FYI, Have a great day and thanks for all your great advice.

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  • Toyota Master
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The following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.

The engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer replaced (known as the PCM or ECM,ECU), which is very rarely the problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related problems. Also engine mechanical problems can and do cause many drive-ability related problem such as rough idle and other symptoms.

Posted on Oct 31, 2012

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  • Expert
  • 226 Answers

Did I understand correctly, shakes and the engine light come on, no power, any time the check engine light comes on or flashes on acceleration you have a coil misfire, what codes do you have, did any one take a look at the crank sensor graph or voltage , also make sure that you tech has a scanner that can read the air fuel ratio sensor, that is the front exhaust sensors, if your tech called the oxygen sensors, find a tech that knows what they are talking about, 5 hours and no idea. I would question the ability and knowledge to repair cars. maybe they are a bunch of part changers. need to know the codes.

Posted on Nov 29, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1861 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 toyota camry-stalling out when driving

You do not have to replace the fuel pump at a specific mileage.
I hate to speculate without physically inspecting the vehicle, but, my best solution here & now may be the fuel pump. Now, I would not go out & buy one before you had proper diagnosis. Here is one test, but you will need to have to experience the stall again, and then test to see if you have fuel pressure at the injectors. If you have no fuel pressure, replace the pump. Fuel filter issues do not "come & go", they stay, and your car would not run properly. Also, a fuel pump failure will not set a computer code on this particular model vehicle. Hope this helps..

Posted on Sep 15, 2008

michigan man
  • 3533 Answers

SOURCE: 1985 Toyota Camry sluggish acceleration

check the fuel filter and when was the last time you had a tranny service done and a tune up also check the drivebelt

Posted on Feb 06, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: engine light is on ,code P0171, hesitates when start driving

If you have had a bad enough problem with the fuel filter, and it is not the fuel pump I would have to say it is the injectors. If your car is fuel injected there could be dirt in the injectors in which case they will need to be replaced. The problem is you can flush the whole fuel system except for the fuel injectors themselves. Though I am not sure how to check them myself, a mechanic could tell you if this is the problem in minutes. I cant say for sure if this is your problem but I have a 79 corrolla and it is doing the same thing and since I have replaced almost the whole fuel line except for the injectors themselves this is what I am leaning towards. Good luck!

Posted on Jun 08, 2009

messstat
  • 365 Answers

SOURCE: Zero throttle response and sluggish accelertation

Wow, great description...I suspect the catalyst is bad...(in the exhaust) but try this cheap fix.
go to Advance Auto Parts and buy a can of "SeaFoam" ($8) and following the directions add to fuel and drive for at least 100 miles...see if that helps...if not, have a mechanic look at the catalytic convertor/exhaust
Good Luck

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2003 Toyota Camry Se V6 has a check engine light

I had the same problem, then took my car to an expert repair shop who diagnosed the sensors and
found no problem with the car. They notified the DMV who was unaware of the problem, who then told the repair shop (John's Bascom Automotive) that they will adjust their computer system to allow a "two speed idle test". My bill was $95 and I still have to pay for a smog test after driving around for
a couple of days to clear the computer monitors, a fair amount and I gladly paid it.

John advised me that I'd get no satisfaction with Toyota or the DMV. I went to the dealership where I
bought the car and they said that the smog stations don't know what they're doing. They charge
about $100 and work around the P0500 code but it takes them about two hours to do this. I told
them that I should have been notified about the dyno none-compatability by Toyota and that Toyota
should have notified the DMV beforehand. I wonder how many speed sensors are being replaced by
unknowing smog shops around the state. I got Toyota's main customer support phone number and
will call them Monday. I'm going to get my pound of flesh ($95 worth) from the DMV next week also.

traderralph

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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