Question about Cars & Trucks
I replaced cv joints both sides and lower ball joints on driver side which were bad and i still hear the vibrating or rumbling
You still have hubs, and the front driveshaft. On some models the front driveshaft can be removed leaving the pinion forks/ ring in place. Some other Transfer cases may use an output shaft thats like the tailshaft on an automatic. This style could leave a gapping hole when you remove the front driveshaft.
Tires are a problem once a wear pattern is embedded in the tread. Sometimes a front to back rotation will reduce noise.
A caliper could be stuck skipping over a turning rotor.
Posted on Oct 31, 2012
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If they are the original ball joints you will have to remove the rivets on them. The new ones should come with replacement nut and bolts. You will have to remove the brakes, and move the steering knuckle out of the way (You don't have to remove the tie rod end). It isn't difficult, just time consuming. You can do it in the driveway on stands. Make sure you have a couple hours, and a case of beer.
Posted on Feb 26, 2009
this is going to sound craZy but i had the same problem . 5 different techs, still same problem. sounded like front end was coming through the floorboard. CHANGE ALL SWAY BAR BUSHINGS. QUIET AS A CHURCH MOUSE. GOOD LUCK
Posted on Sep 03, 2009
Raise vehicle up on jack stands so that the stands are under the lower controll arms and the suspension is "loaded" Remove the front tire(s) (if you break the torque on the nuts while the wheel is still on the ground it helps, but do not loosen them completely as you will be looking for new rims and wheel studs too). Place a drift or some other suitable object in one of the brake rotor vanes so that it will hit the brake caliper and stop the rotor from moving and remove the CV shaft nut (it's a big ****** make sure you have the right socket on hand before getting to this point). Next remove the brake caliper and rotor then undo the wheel bearing retaining bolts and remove the wheel bearing. This should give you enough room to move the axle shaft back and up so you can work on the ball joint. If you've had ball joints replaced before just unbolt the ones that are installed and using a pickle fork, or a block of wood and a hammer, drive the ball joint stud from the knuckle. (make sure to support the upper control arm so it doesn't drop down on you when you do this) If you are working on original ball joints then I reccomend placing a block of wood or something else that will protect the cv boots from drill bits ect and drill out the rivets holding the ball joint in place. then remove in the same manner indicated in the previous paragraph. installation is pretty much the reverse of removal and don't forget to torque your cv shaft nut I have a 1999 and the manual specs 103FTlbs... This is a critical torque as it helps preload your wheel bearing. Too high and you'll burn them up, too low and they'll be loose and wear out.
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
Testimonial: "Thank you for your directions this will help very much."
Tips for a great answer:
Oct 31, 2012 | Cars & Trucks
Apr 19, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Feb 21, 2010 | 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier
Jan 04, 2010 | 2002 Mercury Cougar
Aug 14, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet Blazer
Jul 10, 2009 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer
Jul 08, 2009 | 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 Club Cab
Sep 30, 2008 | 2007 Chevrolet Blazer
Oct 24, 2017 | Cars & Trucks
123 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!