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Temperature control knob on 2002 sienna sticking

Stops turning while changing temperature

Posted by Anonymous on

5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

c17hydro
  • 2984 Answers

SOURCE: TEMPERATURE CONTROL KNOB WILL NOT WORK ON WARM OR HOT

If you can pull the rotating knob off, use a pair of pliers and rotate the rod and see if it works....or, does the knob seem like it is not grabbing?

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

  • 1861 Answers

SOURCE: Heater/AC control no longer allows change in temperature

You have one of two possible problems.

1) The temperature shaft retention nut is loose behind the knob

2.) The wires to the potentiometer part of the temperature may be broken.

Either one is common to this vehicle. The replacement of the AC controller is about 900 dollars. If the wires are broken, they can easily be reattached to the circuit board via soldering. What you would have to do is remove the control box from the dash, and disassemble it. Once the unit is apart, there are 3 wires from the temp knob to the circuit board that need to be re-soldered. The unit CAN be repaired, as opposed to the expense of replacing it.

Posted on Apr 23, 2009

  • 20 Answers

SOURCE: Climate control air conditioner stops working due to incorrect ambient air temperature

Same car, same problem. Press MODE, FRONT and REAR buttons together to reset tempreture. You probably need to replace the sensor GM part number 15047946 it is in the front grill email me for a picture. chris.abbott@gmx.com

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

techbuster
  • 5081 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 toyota sienna change transmission fluid and

The drain plug is on the bottom of the transmission. Its torqued to 49 nM.
1. Remove tranny oil pan drain plug
2. Drain old fluid (roughly 2-4 quarts)
3. Reinstall drain plug.
4. Measure amount drained in a 99 cent orange juice pitcher from Walmart
5. Pour back the same amount drained using Toyota Type T-IV fluid (available in 1 quart bottles from a Toyota dealer.
6. Start engine and shift slowly through all the gears ending in Park.
7. Check fluid level on the dipstick. Add fluid, if necessary, to bring the level to a point inbetween the COLD and HOT marks on the dipstick.
8. Go for a 20 minute drive and recheck fluid level. Add fluid, if necessary, to bring the level up to,
but not beyond, the upper half of the HOT range on the dipstick.

As in 1973, NO FLUSHING is needed and NO FILTER REPLACEMENT is needed, NO PAN REMOVAL is needed. As, as in 1973 todays Toyotas have a metal mesh filter screen that doesn't ever get clogged except in rare cases of transmission operational abuse, including failure to ever change the fluid for 150,000 miles or more.

Posted on Nov 21, 2009

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Easiest place to start is checking for a broken control knob. Pull the knob off and see if it is cracked/broken on the back side. You can turn the metal control rod then by hand to see if it works. If no problem found there, you will have to check for a blend door motor/actuator that controls heat/cooling attached to the heater box under the dash for proper operation

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The temperature control does not change when the fan is turned up. if i want to change the temperature from hot to cold, i have to turn down the fan, listen for the switch in the dash and then turn the...


I can tell you about my experience on my 1999 F150. I do not believe it is the blower control switch because mine went out and only affected the fan speed. On my truck, in an incident like yours, I could not get a good response from the temperature switch.

I would turn the control and it would hit a stop on both ends, but the temperature would not change to match the switch. What I found is the stem of the temperature control did not turn because the knob cracked behind the switch. There is a half-moon shaped metal clip inside the plastic temperature knob. The clip can spin when the knob is cracked and nothing moves right.

Because the plastic knob has molded stops under the knob, from the drivers point of view, the knob was turning lock to lock. In reality, the stem was not turning. Try taking the knob off and turning the stem with pliers wrapped in cloth to protect the plastic. Then see if the temperature changes.

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The clicking noise is the motor for the "blend door". The heater core and the air conditioning side share the same ducting. When you move the knob a small motor moves the door letting the respective hot or cool flow happen.
The heater core is probably blocked. The engineers at Ford have the coolant hoses bypassing the core with a WYE at the firewall. The coolant takes the path of least resistance and stops FLUSHING the heater core and it eventually clogs.

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Hold the door handle in the open position while using a bent coat hanger on the door catch lever.Sometimes a flathead screwdriver works to pry the door catch as well. Good luck, keep me posted.

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1 Answer

TEMPERATURE CONTROL KNOB WILL NOT WORK ON WARM OR HOT


If you can pull the rotating knob off, use a pair of pliers and rotate the rod and see if it works....or, does the knob seem like it is not grabbing?

Mar 13, 2009 | 2002 Mitsubishi Galant

1 Answer

Heating on 92"j" accord blowing cold


The temperature control knob does control a cable, the valve is in a heater hose low on the passenger side of the firewall in the engine compartment. Check to make sure the cable is still over the pin on the valve and make sure the cable jacket is still clamped to the valve bracket. Also, pull the knob off the stem and make sure it isn't cracked such that it won't turn the metal stem sticking out of the dash. If all that is OK, check the cable by turning the knob all the way to cold, note the location of the lever on the valve, then turn the knob all the way to hot and see if the lever moved. Sorry, not sure how involved it is to change the cable.

Jan 10, 2009 | 1992 Honda Accord

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