Question about 1995 Ford Windstar

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95 windstar turns over, but won't start

My newly acquired 95 Windstar was running ok, just a cel, until
I took it on a 200 mile trip with 6 adult in it.
It started somewhat stalling and then died, a day after we
arrived. I found no fuel pressure under the hood, and voltage
at the pump connector, and spark so I replaced the fuel pump.
It started and drove 16 miles to the store and when I came out I
had the exact symptoms as before ie it would turn over, had
spark, injectors firing, but wouldn't start. Again no pressure
under hood however this time when I pulled of the line at the
filter & turned it over I had gas flow just not high pressure.
I changed the fuel relay module, with one from the scrap yard
and now the cooling fans come one by themselves full power and
the car still doesn't start. I had it towed to a garage they
put in on a code reader but had to leave on a family emergency
he only left me with one code, P1405. (Differential Pressure
Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor upstream hose off or plugged)
Can anyone help me get back on the road

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  • jlfonz Jan 04, 2009

    I have/had same problem. Purchased 3-4 years ago used with 90k miles. Paid cash-walked out door--crank/no start. It was (still is) a great one owner so I was determined to take it home. While in dealer lot (of course dealer was freaking) I opened hood and was gonna try some starter fluid. While the dealer detailer was digging for the fluid I removed the air duct near the battery to get access to spray in fluid. Before I could even get the can near the duct--it started right up. Grrr. Light jacket weather at the time BTW. Drove it home 80 miles and used it for months without problem. Then it started acting up. Crank no start. After diagnostic procedure I was quite sure it was the fuel pump--I replaced it and the filter (because I was there) at the same time. Didnt fix it Grr. Getting mad--and after yanking around the control relay module--it worked. I found the fuse for the fuel pump had a crack in it (yea---a stinking crack right across the middle). I replaced it and it worked fine for another couple of years. I parked it (now an extra unused vehicle) for a year and a half with going out and starting it occasionally but still to far apart and having to jump it occasionally and now replacing the battery since I want it back on the road (daughters first FREE car). Same symptom again except far more often and usually in the coldest weather. Wont start for her (crank/no start) --go there hours later and it fires right up. Makes it hard as hell for dad--the TV tech to diagnose.

    Since your post is brand new I am posting this in depth in hopes of getting response from someone else that has been down the same road and I will list the items I have gleaned from the internet that may or may not be helpfull to either one of us. (I'm prolonging the going outside right now and doing these myself).

    1) sticking idle air control (IAC) havent found a pic yet

    2) diode/fuse in fuse box has corrosion and needs to be resoldered

    3) PCM or fuel pump relay gets moisture in it (cold weather related)

    4) Coil pack intermittant (thermal makes sense)

    5) 2 smaller ground wires from neg batt post have bad connections causing strange PCM issues

    6) Clean the Idle air bypass valve no pic on this yet

    7) Differential pressure sensor bad/flaky (DPFE)

    It seems (I stress seems) that this is thermal related even though my initial experiences (at the dealer and later fuse and fuel pump nightmare) happened in warm weather. She just got her license Dec 18th so she has not had a daily to and from school routine happening BUT she has been driving it all most every day to basketball pratice--2 hours--and it seems to be occuring after sitting for 2 hours (groan) from a full warm up.

    Now I have to get dressed and go outside--I'll repost if I find anything definitive or otherwise.

  • fritzw22 Jan 15, 2009

    I fixed my problem!  Check this out, I had similar problems with the loss of power upon acceleration.  I have 12v at the fuel pump harness so I replaced the pump,  Afterwards the van ran 16 miles and then wouldn't start.
    To make a long story short.  I removed the fuel line at the filter and turned over the van while monitoring gas flow.  It was weak and when I put my finger in the hose found that it stopped flowing altogether.  I pulled the tank back off and then found that the diaphragm looking piece just above the fuel pump in the tank had split the little rubber gasket/ seal that connects it, so when I would accelerate it would just return fuel back into the tank.  I replaced the piece mentioned with a 2" piece of fuel hose and hose clamps and it started right up running fine so far!  Good luck, BTW I have pictures if wanted.

  • Gran Sep 21, 2012

    I have the same problem Turns over but won't start brand new fuel pump new gas new fuel filter and battery almost ready to give up now I hope it's the fuse like yours ( crossing my fingers)

  • Darcy Zakel
    Darcy Zakel Jan 22, 2014

    have you checked the ccpr box? it is only on the 95windstar, below the battery on the core support, and it controls your fuel pump pressure.



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While I was patching the holes in my oil pan today and waiting for the JB Weld (another story in itself) to cure I inspected the area of the relay control module (fuse box) because I had some luck previously moving things around there and getting it to start (see above). I found that I had previously repaired and/or upgraded the the two smaller wires coming from the neg. cable. One goes to a connector and if I remember correctly on to the fans (I remember tracing it previously--dont remember where to) and the other to body ground--I had soldered the wire to connector and bared surface on body to make a good connection. As I mentioned I zoomed in on the fuse box and found that the large pos. cable goes to the starter and there is a relativly large cable going to the fuse box where it is bolted onto a plate/connector that then allows the current to travel through a fuse link (that runs under the module) into a rather large wire going --somewhere--. The plate seemed to be made out of some aluminum alloy. I removed the nuts (after disconnecting the battery of course) and found some corrosion on both the nuts and the plate. Wire brushed both (with drill and wire brush---took much more cleaning/brushing than I expected) I cannot say if this fixed this or not as our problem is sooooo intermittant. I didnt follow the fuse linked wire and as I type this I am wondering if there is such a thing as an intermittant fuse link. (I remember wanting to junk some chryslers as a kid)

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

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I found some info at another website and they say to replace the DPFE. Here is the link ......

This should give you an idea what you are looking for if you do it yourself.

Posted on Jan 03, 2009


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