Question about Lincoln Cars & Trucks
Plz help...I'm think in the temp censor is bad?
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Yes thats correct the if the water pump goes so goes the timing belt even if it looks good. The timing belt is only good for 50,000 miles if you have more this then you got your moneys worth.
Posted on Mar 20, 2009
Did you put a new cap on the radiator? Small as it seems, if it does not provide an adequate seal on the radiator, than the system does not get pressurized, thus keeping the boiling point around 212 deg. your engine gets way hotter than than normally. When sealed right, the pressurized system raises the boiling point to close to 300. thats how is works. If thats not it,(assuming it is the last thing replaced) than you might have either a cracked head/ head gasket/ valve guides, cooling ports, basic large dollar items. Lets hope for your sake the problem is still in the cooling system, before you look at the motor. If you take out the sparkplugs, you'll be able to tell real quick, rusty, burnt whitish-orange looking condition. Good luck
Posted on Aug 15, 2008
I just had a similar issue with my 1995 Buick century. My issue started out with the gage being almost pegged with the car off. When I turned the key to run it pegged the gage completely. I first called AutoZone and they told me it was either the temperature sensor, thermostat, or gage.
I knew that my thermostat wasn’t bad because I replaced it a while back. I then checked my sensor; I unhooked the two pin connector of this sensor at the block and suspected the needle to drop to zero. This was not the case.
I then checked my wires using a multimeter to verify that there was no short at my firewall. My wiring was fine.
I then called a family mechanic and he instructed me that there is also a "temperature switch" that also is interconnected to the coolant temperature gage. I then found this switch which was threaded into the block near the firewall of my car. I unhooked the 2 pin connector and suspected that the gage would return to the neutral position. And sure enough it did!!
This could have been a heck of a lot easier if AutoZone could have told me that my car has a "temperature switch". But non the less it was only a $15 fix!
First try unhooking your sensors and switch to see if this is the problem, I would lastly suspect your gage to fail!
Posted on Aug 03, 2009
SOURCE: car's overheating
Check to see if your radiator fans are working. If you have A/C just turn it on and both fans WILL come on unless there is a problem ie: bad fuse(s), relay(s), or motor(s). I don't mean to scare you, but, someone "could" have a pretty bad head gasket leak and still not see fluid come out of the exhaust. If the fans are both working, it could be any number of things from, a faulty coolant temp sensor, a faulty dash gauge, possible air bubble in the cooling system. Another easy check is coolant consumption, if you are leaking coolant into the cylinder while engine is running and/or into the crank case. Just check to see if your coolant level is going down and/or your oil level isn't growing because of coolant filling up your crank case. Hope this info helps...(subytech)...
Posted on Aug 07, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Apr 15, 2015 | 1994 Honda Accord
Jun 11, 2014 | 1997 Pontiac Grand Am
Jun 17, 2017 | Cars & Trucks
Aug 01, 2012 | 1994 Mazda 929
Sep 20, 2011 | 1999 Chevrolet Malibu
Sep 20, 2011 | 1999 Chevrolet Malibu
Jul 14, 2011 | Nissan Armada Cars & Trucks
Sep 09, 2009 | 1995 Honda Accord
Jul 06, 2009 | 2002 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab
65 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!