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Heater issues Water temp drops in cold weather we are experiencing now in Ohio. Heater works fairly well at idle or slow speeds, but at near highway (or above....) speeds, the water temp drops into the blue (cold) range, and no warm air is being delivered to the cabin. Any ideas/suggestions??

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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Change engine cooling system thermostat.

Posted on Oct 31, 2012


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


SOURCE: cabin heat and defroster do not work correctly at highway speeds

that easy! i was a master tech 4 hyundai and other manufacturers, first thing change your pollen filter. if syptoms still pursist please feel free to contact myself,

many thanks

Dominic Hill

Posted on Dec 11, 2008

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SOURCE: 2004 Tahoe Heater Problem

check coolant level ,must be low ,chck for coolant loss

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

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SOURCE: Heater blows cold when motor is idleing, Heater

You have a partially blocked heater core. This is not a repair for the average DIYer. Any radiator shop can repair it by rodding, or just buy a new one - they're less than $100 but a real job to get out. I'd take it to a professional or if you're game, pick up Chiltons for 2000 Taurus and give it a go.

Posted on Feb 21, 2010

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SOURCE: My 2001 Town and Country's

vacuum line cracked or lose

Posted on Jan 20, 2011

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I have a 2003 chevy impala. Just recently come acrossed in issue where the heater blows nothing but cold air even with the temp gauge going as high as it can get. Weather its at an idle or being driven....

providing your coolant is full cause low coolant will cause no heat
and your temp gauge is normal in the middle then most likely u have a bad blend door actuator usually on the passenger side

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I have an 83 f-150 351w, in cold temps the truck won't idle till it warms up, then when it does it idles really fast, it also revs high, what can the problem be, also wen going at highway speeds after...

It sounds like it is working backwards. Around the time your truck was made the industry had different emissions standards for trucks and cars. There were less controls on trucks.

There were vacuum controls that would increase idle speed when the engine was cold. The way this was done is through a water temperature sensor that is commonly called a vacuum tree. It is called a tree because it is shaped like a tree trunk with a few branches and each branch has a vacuum hose. As water temperature increases the vacuum routing changes. The cold setting makes an idle step-up dash-pot raise RPM and close the choke plate. As the water warms, the internal parts of the vacuum tree move and change the vacuum ports.

When the ports change, RPM drops and the choke plate opens and low idle speeds are restored. With the choke plate open high speed operation of the motor is assured without bogging down.

I would say most of what can be wrong is cheap to fix. A new thermostat, perhaps a new vacuum tree. Your problem can also be the vacuum lines are not connected to the correct ports. One thing many people do is to adjust the idle speed at the wrong time. The step-up cams are not in the proper position and when stuff starts working everything is out of adjustment because the changes were made at the wrong time.

This is a job for an old school mechanic.

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2005 nissan altima heater blows cold air when stopped and blows hot air when going down the highway. What could be the problem?

Check your coolant level. If it is low, what you describe will happen. Water pump works faster as rpm's increase, managing to get hot coolant to heater core (highway speeds). At idle, pump is not working fast enough to get the coolant to the heater core.

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no i think the water pump impeller is starting to spin on the drive shaft ,the impeller is plastic on a metal shaft ,fairly common fault

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Cuts out only in extreme cold weather

You might have to let Ford do another diagnostic.I would suspect MAF sensor, maybe wiring to it or just dirty. don-ohio

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Is the car-heating also staying cold while the engine is overheating ?

The waterpump is a much known cause for this type of problem with A4s and since you don't have any leakage, it's the most likely cause (especially if the car-heating is staying cold).

Shouldn't be a fuel issue.

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you should have hot water on all rad. hoses when the motor is running at a norm. temp. the water is not going through the heater core like it should. you have cutoff valve bad low water are a stopped heater.try a hoter thermostat if none of the above are true.

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Car temp gauge/heat

TDIs can take a while to heat up in cold weather. Sometime 10 minutes or more.

If it is taking longer than 10 mins for your temp gauge to hit 190, you may need a new temp sensor, which is pretty cheap and just pops into the engine block, almost right next to the battery.

Jan 13, 2009 | 2003 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

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1989 Toyota Land Cruiser overheating- REPLACED ENTIRE COOLING SYS

Do a cylinder leak down test. Hook up a airline to each spark plug hole. Bring each cyclinder to tdc and listen for air leak. Possibly in the radiator. You can also reverse the process by doing a radiator leak down test. If you hear bubbling in the radiator bad head gasket. Remove and replace head gasket.

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you may need to replace the heater core and/ or the thermostat. also, make sure you have antifreeze and water.

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