Removal of a front rotor on a mazda navajo 4x4 automatic

These should be pop off rotors . Most likely they are rusted on to the hub assembly. Take a heavy hammer and strike the rotor numerous times. This should break free any corrossion holding the rotor to the hub. Once the rotor becomes loose it should slide off over the wheel studs. I would recommend replacing the rotor if it needs to be hammered off and then cleaning the rotor mounting surface with a good wire brush on a drill before installing a replacement rotor

If its to wheel drive than it will have a inner and outer bearing. 1. Remove the caliper 2. Remove the dust cap from the center of he rotor 3. Remove the cotter pin from the spindle 4. Remove the castellated nut 5. Remove the nut and washwer 6. Remove the outer bearing 7. Remove the rotor from the spindle 8. Remove the grease seal from the back of the rotor 9. Remove the inner bearing Clean the grease out of the rotor. Use a punch to remove the inner and outer races from the hub. Install the new races into the rotor with a seal/race driver. Pack the new bearings. Install inner bearing into rotor. Install new grease seal. Wipe old grease off of the spindle and apply a thin coat of new great. Install rotor ono spindle. Install outer bearing, washer, and nut. Tighten nut snug then back off nut a half of turn and then tighten agin just barely snug. Install castellated nut and cotter pin. Reinstall dust cap Reinstall caliper and your done. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com!

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Fig. Exploded view of the wheel bearing adjusting nut and related components-automatic locking hub shown

Loosen the wheel bearing locknut using a 2 3/8 inch (60.3mm) hex socket, such as Hex Locknut Wrench T70T-4252-B.




Fig. An oversize socket is needed to properly adjust the wheel bearing-automatic locking hub shown

Tighten the inner locknut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) to seat the bearings.

Spin the rotor and back off the inner locknut 1/4 turn (90 degrees). Retighten the locknut to 16 inch lbs. (1.8 Nm).

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using Fixya, and have a nice day.

If this is a Pin Slider, here is 1996 steps:

Section 06-03: Brakes, Front Disc 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350 4x2, 4x4, Bronco and F-Super Duty Vehicles Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Caliper
Heavy-Duty Rail Slider, F-Super Duty
Replace brake shoe and lining (2001) as follows when the lining is worn to a minimum thickness of 0.794mm (1/32 inch) above the front disc brake rotor shield. CAUTION: Always replace all brake shoes and linings on an axle. Never replace only one wheel (1007).
Removal

1. To avoid fluid overflow when the caliper pistons are pressed into the caliper cylinder bores, siphon or dip part of the brake fluid out of the brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478). Discard the removed fluid.
   

1. Raise the vehicle and install safety stands. Remove the front wheel and tire assembly.
   

1. Place an appropriate size C-clamp on the disc brake caliper with end of clamp against caliper and end of screw against outer shoe. Tighten the clamp to bottom the caliper pistons in the cylinder bores. Remove the clamp. Do not use a screwdriver or similar tool to pry caliper pistons (2196) away from the front disc brake rotor (1125).
   
   
   
   
   

1. Clean excess dirt from area around pin tabs.
   

1. Tap upper caliper pin toward inboard side until pin tabs touch the front wheel spindle.
   

1. Using Hydraulic Caliper Pin Remover D89T-2196-A or equivalent and a light hammer, drive the pin from the disc brake caliper as follows:
   
   1. Position the notched end of the tool against the caliper pin (retention tab half), at a 45-degree angle from the pin retention tabs.
      
      
      
      
   1. Tap the tool with the hammer to compress the retention tabs.
      
      
      
      
   1. As the retention tabs are compressed, move the tool to gain a straight approach to the caliper pin, and continue tapping to drive the caliper pin through the caliper/spindle groove.

1. Repeat removal procedure for lower caliper pin.
   

1. CAUTION: Do not let the disc brake caliper hang by the front brake hose (2078). The front brake hose could become stretched or twisted which can cause the front brake hose to leak and rupture, resulting in failure.
   Remove the disc brake caliper from the front disc brake rotor. If the disc brake caliper is to be removed for service, remove the front brake hose from the disc brake caliper. Plug the end of the front brake hose to prevent fluid loss and entry of air into the system. If the disc brake caliper is not to be removed, wire it up to the frame of the vehicle to avoid damage to the front brake hose.
   

Installation
CAUTION: Always replace all brake shoes and linings on an axle. Never replace only one wheel.

1. NOTE: There is a raised section at one end of each shoe so installation can be made in one direction only.
   
   Install new inner and outer lining.
   

1. Lubricate the knuckle upper and lower inner pad grooves and caliper grooves with Disc Brake Caliper Slide Grease, Silicone Dielectric Compound D7AZ-19A331-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A. Install the disc brake caliper on a front wheel spindle, making sure the mounting surfaces are free of dirt.
   

1. CAUTION: Do not allow the tabs of the caliper pin to be tapped too far into the spindle groove. If this happens it will be necessary to tap the other end of the caliper pin until the tabs snap into place. The tabs on each end of the caliper pin must be free to catch on the spindle flanks.
   Position caliper pin with the pin retention tabs oriented adjacent to the spindle groove.
   

1. Tap the caliper pin on the outboard end with a hammer. Continue tapping the caliper pin inward until the retention tabs on the sides of the caliper pin contact the spindle face. Repeat procedure for the lower caliper pin.
   
   
   

Wheel Spindle, F-150, F-250, F-350
Removal

1. Raise the front of the vehicle and install safety stands.
   

1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04 .
   

1. Remove the disc brake caliper (2B120) from the rotor and wire it out of the way. Refer to Section 06-03 .
   

1. Remove the dust cap, cotter pin, nut retainer, nut, washer and front wheel bearing (1216).
   

1. Remove the rotor from the front wheel spindle (3105).
   
   
   
   
   
   Item Part Number Description 1 606085 Clamp Bolt 2 3B404 Camber Adjuster 3 800895 Nut 4 800937 Nut 5 3049 Front Suspension Upper Ball Joint 6 3050 Front Suspension Lower Arm Ball Joint 7 3105 Front Wheel Spindle 8 642569 Cotter Pin 9 3304 Steering Sector Shaft Arm Drag Link 10 383489 Nut 11 3001 Front Axle Assembly 12 388727 Bolt A - Tighten to 77-103 Nm
   (57-75 Lb-Ft) B - Tighten to 68-92 Nm
   (50-67 Lb-Ft) C - Tighten to 113-153 Nm (83-112 Lb-Ft) D - Tighten to 340-460 Nm (250-339 Lb-Ft)

1. Remove bearing cone and roller (1201) and wheel hub grease seal (1190). Discard the seal.
   

1. Remove front disc brake rotor shield (2K004). Refer to Section 06-03 .
   

1. Disconnect the steering linkage from the integral front wheel spindle and spindle arm by removing the cotter pin and nut and then removing the front wheel spindle tie rod from the spindle arm with Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.
   

1. Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from the lower ball joint stud.
   

1. Remove the nut from the axle clamp bolt and remove the bolt from the axle.
   

1. Remove the camber adjuster from the upper ball joint stud and axle beam. If required, use Ball Joint Removing Tool D81T-3010-B or equivalent to remove adjuster.
   

1. CAUTION: Do not use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the axle as this will damage the seal and the ball joint socket.
   Strike the inside area of the axle as shown to pop lower ball joints loose from the axle beam.
   

1. Remove the front wheel spindle and ball joint from the axle.
   
   

Ball Joint, F-150, F-250, F-350 SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C Ball Joint Remover T94T-3010-AH
Removal

1. Remove the front wheel spindle (3105) and ball joint assembly from the axle. Refer to Wheel Spindle, F-150, F-250, F-350 in the Removal and Installation portion of this section.
   

1. NOTE: Lower ball joint must be removed first.
   
   Install the front wheel spindle in a vise and remove the snap ring from the lower ball joint.
   

1. Remove the lower ball joint from the front wheel spindle using U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C and Receiver Cup D81T-3010-A5 or equivalent for F-150. Use Ball Joint Remover T94T-3010-AH for F-250 and F-350.
   

1. Turn the forcing screw clockwise until the ball joint is removed from the front wheel spindle.
   
2. CAUTION: Do not heat the ball joint or the front wheel spindle to aid in removal.
   Assemble U-joint tool and cup on the upper ball joint, and turn forcing screw clockwise until ball joint is removed from the front wheel spindle.
   
   
   Installation
   
   1. CAUTION: Do not heat the ball joint or axle to aid in installation.
      NOTE: Upper ball joint must be installed into the front wheel spindle first.
      
      NOTE: Individual ball joint tools are included in Ball Joint Adapter Set D81T-3010-A or equivalent.
      
      To install the upper ball joint, assemble C-frame assembly, Ball Joint Receiver Cup D81T-3010-A5 and Installation Cup D81T-3010-A1 and D81T-3010-A3 or equivalents inside cup D81T-3010-A4 or equivalent in position on the front wheel spindle.
      
   1. Turn forcing screw clockwise until ball joint is seated.
      
      
      
      
   

If it's a 4x4 they can't be greased. The bearing is pressed into the hub.

If it's 4x2 you'll have to remove the caliper. Take off the dust cover on the rotor. Remove the cotter pin, spindle nut, and washer, to pull the rotor off and grease the inner bearing.

If it's 4x4...Loosen the lugs. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer. Jack it up. Pull the wheel. Remove the caliper/bracket. Trace the ABS sensor wire into the inner fender and unplug it. Remove the nuts/clips that hold the wire from moving around. Look on the back of the hub (spindle) for the three bolts that hold the hub and bearing in place. Remove them and pull out the hub and bearing.

After you get the wheel off; remove brake calipers...do not allow them to hang down - you'll damage the brake lines!

Remove the grease cover at the center of the rotor with a flat blade screw driver. Remove the castle pin and nut, then the rotor should slide off the spindle with very little effort.

To remove the bearing raceways...clean the grease out of the center of the rotor...so you can see what you're doing. Place rotor on a solid bench/cement pad, so you can get a flat chissel/large screw driver to the inside of the rotor...pound the raceway out, working around the rotor in a circle - the raceway needs to come out evenly to avoid damage to the rotor. If you can't get the raceways out - take the rotor to a machine shop that can do it for you (sometimes the auto parts store will help...if there're not busy).

GOES BACK TOGETHER IN REVERSE ORDER:

The best thing to do is get pre-packed bearings, new castle pins and a tub of axle grease.

Remember, put about 1/2 cup/palm full of grease into the center of rotor prior to re-assembly. Also, don't over tighten the wheel...put the castle nut on and finger tighten. slightly tighten with a wrench...ensure the rotor turns freely - must be snug and slight resistance should be noticed. Don't forget the new castle pin.

Hope this helps,
Mike...

silver button does not sound factory it maybe valey button for alarm, does it have or have alarm. 4wd is button actuated in middle of dash should be button with 2wd and button with 4wd, origional manuel free not that i know of. chilton manual for about $25 at part store give most general info and repair guide for fixing most things with diagnostic info

These things always stick. Here's my trick to get them off. Get 4 more bolts with the same thread, but much longer. Screw them into the holes, start the engine (DON'T TOUCH THE BRAKE PEDAL), and turn the wheel back and forth. As you get all the way to one side the longer bolts will hit the axle housing and push the hub/bearing assembly out of the knuckle. Snap on also mahes a special tool for this that does the same thing, but uses the factory bolts. There's probably 20 different ways you can rig something up that will work off the same principle. You're gonna have to get creative if you wanna drive it this week.

Most likely you have to replace or repair this motor.

http://www.am-autoparts.com/AM/Four-Wheel-Drive-Components/Mazda/Navajo/1991/