An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: 4w disk normal driving brakes ok.
Check that when on turn the flexible pipes to the front calipers are not swelling out with the pressure where the flexible pipe is blocking up when twisting with the suspension/steering.Had same fault on a seat 124 many years ago
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You must start bleeding the brakes at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (usually the right rear), then the next farthest from the master cylinder, then the next, then the closest. If your master cylinder is at the left front of the car, start with the right rear, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. If you don't bleed the brakes in the correct order, you are just shifting the air in the lines from one line to another. Make sure that you close the bleeder before letting the brake pedal up, and the engine should not be running when you bleed the brakes... Make sure that the emergency brake is off. Make sure that the master cylinder does not run out of brake fluid at any time that you are bleeding the brakes.
Does it pull to one side or the other when rolling? If so, then you may have a stuck caliper. If not, then you likely have a bad master cylinder and need to replace. If it is a stuck caliper, it would be wisest to replace BOTH calipers. If the brake pedal feels hard when you push, that would be another indicator the master cylinder is bad - but you may not have the hardness in the pedal. If pulling up on the pedal relieves the problem, I would suspect the master cylinder first. Driving on it could damage many components, and replacing them all may be expensive - I recommend verifying the master cylinder is bad and replacement before driving!!
for the pedal to go to the floor there is still air in the brake system. Start again starting from the longest line bleeding each in turn to the shortest line . make sure you have adjusted up the rear brakes before bleeding as every time you press on the pedal the shoes expand right out and when you take your foot off the pedal the shoes go all the way back in. adjust them manually and do not rely on the self adjuster as it only adjusts on wheel movement
The extra brake travel can be; 1. air still in the brake lines and need bleeding 2. if there are brake drums on the rear they may be out of adjustment 3. if there are warped brake disc or caliper problems that will add to the brake travel
If the car has drum brakes in the rear, Jack the rear up and have someone push the brake pedal hard and you try to turn the wheel. If you can turn it you need to adjust the rear shoes. They may be traveling out so far that the fluid level drops causing the pedal to go to the floor. You must adjust them with the drum on till you hear and feel the shoes rubbing against the drum. Hope this helps.
This may sound dum but its been done a few times and is a simple mistake , the bleeder screw is up top, with the caliper on the bleeder screw should be up top, if not then calipers are on the wrong side, it sounds like air in the system, also you pumped the pedal up to push out the piston so pads hit rotor after bleeding,i dont see anything else, if the pedal is good with pinched lines at caliper then it got to be calipers are wrong or on the wrong side and the bleeder is not atop caliper,also you bleed the rear also? these trucks and cars use left caliper and rt rear on one system of the master and rt front and left rear on one side, let me know about the caliper, heres a picture to show you what i mean. hope this helps
You may have a leak in the booster or master cylinder. You can put a pressure tester on the system to test for leaks. It does sound like you have an air leak. You can try to bleed the master cylinder, then slave cylinder, then brake lines.
Either you did not bleed the brakes properly or they need adjusted. (rear only) Front most likely are disks. If you put pads on the front and spread the caliper pistons, you should pump the brake pedal 10 or 15 times to move the pistons out. Some ABS systems are notoriously hard to bleed.
you did'nt say why you changed the rf brake hose, but i'm assuming it was leaking, check to make sure the new one is not leaking and there is no other leaks in the system, this includes the other 3 calipers and hoses, the rear hose in between the rear hard line on the frame to the rear hard line on the rear axle. if there is still air in the right side line then the left side would be doing all the work and may cause your abs to kick in on the left side if it is attempting to lock up. this may be the noises you are hearing. if you still have power brakes after you shut the engine off, (you should be able to pump the pedal 3 or 4 times with the engine off before the pedal becomes hard) then the booster is ok. if it has a swooshing sound inside the car, (hard to describe that sound on a keyboard), then you may have a leak in the seal on the brake pedal side of the booster. brake master cylinder sounds like it is bypassing. if it still goes to the floor after you rebleed then replace the master cylinder. if a brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, it is possible to ruin the cylinder and cause it to bypass, this is caused by rust or corrosion, the seals on the plunger are compromised letting brake fluid leak past. any other questions please let me know. thanks