Question about 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Crew Cab

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I HAVE A 2004 CHEVY 1500 5.3L. THE TEMP. GUAGE PEGS OUT BUT IT IS NOT RUNNING HOT. I CHANGED THE SENDING UNIT STILL THE SAME.

I have a 2004 Silverado with a 5.3 liter. the temp. guage when i first start the truck in the morning. will be at 250 and just peg from there. i changed the sending unit it did not help. I put a temp. probe on it it is not running hot.

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You may have a bad guage. To check, ground out the sender by placing a screwdriver or alligator clips accross the ground tab and the center positive terninal. If the guage works you would normally expect a sender problem, but since you put on a new sender (assuming it's wired correctly [ no offense ]) you will need to trace t the wires from the guage to the SU. The fuel guage power lead is pink ( or at least it is on boats ) Look for a bad connection, corrosion, frayed wires or anything else that looks abnormal. You may want to simply replace the existing wire temporarily with another wire. This new wire should tell you immediately if your guage is bad. Good luck!

Posted on Oct 30, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: gas guage

have you checked to see if the guage in the dash isnt the problem ?

Posted on Feb 20, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1994 Chevy Silverado temperature guage shows hot

Flushing the radiator, replacing the radiator cap, adding new coolant, replacing the sensors and a new thermostat solved the problem. Probably didn't need to do all of these things - but since we just purchased the truck, and given the fact that is probably hadn't been done in a while, we chose to do all of these things (which really didn't cost a whole lot), it's running like a charm now.

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

  • 56 Answers

SOURCE: temp. guage keeps fluctuating from very hot to

Usually one of the head gaskets are bad normally the drivers side from what I have seen, typical problem, i have been down that road also

Posted on Jan 03, 2010

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SOURCE: The temp guage pegs out

Having a blocked heater core will not make the engine over heat. You will just not get any of the heat from the fluid that would normally be pushed through the heater core because your core or cores are blocked (I think you have two cores if you have a rear heater.). The engine does not need your interior heater cores to keep cool. When you select "heat" on your console, either a valve opens up and allows fluid to move through the lines to your heater cores and or an air duct opens to the cores to blow air across them...


Did your heater work before your work?

Does the gauge stay pegged or does it fluctuate?


If your gauge now fluctuates after your work, it would indicate to me that there is air trapped in the engine or bubbles passing by. The air does not cool the engine block as well so the temp will rise quickly. It will then cool a bit as the coolant splashes by. If your gauge is staying hot and never moves, it could mean: you are missing a lot of coolant, trapped air near the temp sender, or your thermostat is not opening. A closed thermostat would make the gauge go all the way hot and stay hot. The thermostat can be checked with a pan of boiling water on the stove. When boiling, put the thermostat in the water and check to see if it opens. It is also important that the thermostat is installed in the correct direction. The temp sensor much be on the engine side. I am also assuming your pump shaft is not sheared and is still connected to the impeller and it is spinning as well. You can take your belt off and move it by hand to see if you feel any resistance. If you are sure the thermostat is opening and the pump circulating, I would then check and see if you have air in trapped in your system. I looked at my Uplander and noted a lot of hoses and metal pipes at a higher level than the filler neck of the radiator. Perhaps, when you filled your system back up from the radiator, that a lot of air got trapped in the upper part of the engine and the heater lines. I also saw that there were little brass valves near were the hoses connect near the pump and on the driver side. I would suggest running the engine and open and close the little brass check valve on the divers side to see if you have fluid or just air coming out. I wouldn

Posted on Jan 09, 2011

XKarDoc
  • 442 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 chevy 1500 5.3l 4x4

You won't get power at the sending unit. The sending unit provides a variable ground to the dash unit. Where did you ground the dash unit? If you disconnect the sending unit at the tank and ground the fuel gauge circuit there the gauge should go to full. If if doesn't the problem is between that connector and the place you cheched it before. If it does the problem is with the sender. Occasionally new parts are found to be defective.

Posted on Apr 17, 2011

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