Question about Toyota Tundra
Some Toyota TSB there( T-SB-0029-08 Rev2 April 4, 2008 refer at Air Injection Control Driver); this repair is covered under the Toyota Basic Comprehensive Warranty. This warranty is in effect for 36 months or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle's in-service date.
Warranty application is limited to correction of a problem based upon a customer's specific complaint.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Oct 30, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: secondary air injection system
This is a pump that sits underneath your front bumper on the passenger
side. It is about the size of a baseball and has two hoses going into
it. I would suggest you replace it yourself as it would cost you about
$360.00 if you were to go through the dealer.
Water intrusion is what will typically kill these electric pumps. There is a Technical service bulletin (#04-06-04-015) Regarding this problem, according to the tsb, you will need a new pump and there is a hose assy. #12590627) that has you reroute the pump from future water intrusion or it is guaranteed to fail again.
Although I have had water in the pump I did not see any indication of the inlet hose as the cause. It was suggested that the one way metal check valves ($15.00) that mount to the rt & lt exhaust manifold are worn and allow water from the exhaust to get sucked back into the pump. I first replaced the pump and within a week of dry weather driving the light came back on. I checked the pump and it was again full of water. I just replaced the valves which had deteriorated on the inside. So hopefully this will eliminate the problem. Note - The valves are impossible to remove without removing the 1/2 tubes (held on with 2 nuts) they are attached to the manifold with. The valve threads seize to the tube thread and had to be clamped in a vise to remove - I actually had to hacksaw the valve section to get it off the pipe. Careful as not to damage the threads.
Good luck and try autopartsdirect2you for a new pump and it has life time warranty.
TSB #04-06-04-015 - (Mar 22, 2004)
Some owners may comment on the check engine light being illuminated. Upon investigation, the technician may find a DTC P0410 indicating that there is a concern in the secondary air injection system.
Water may have collected in the AIR pump or the vent solenoid and frozen or corroded the pump.
Replace the AIR pump and install a new inlet hose and solenoid tube assembly using the following procedure:
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove shield covering AIR pump.
Remove hose and vacuum lines from pump and solenoid.
Remove AIR pump inlet hose. Do not re-use.
Disconnect electrical connectors from pump and solenoid.
Remove pump mounting bolts and pump.
Transfer isolators from the old pump to the new pump.
Install new AIR pump and bolts to vehicle.
Tighten the bolts to 17N·m (12.5 lb ft)
Route new hose assembly up between engine and fender. It should come up near the area between the battery and the coolant bottle.
Connect new inlet hose to pump inlet.
Connect old outlet hose to pump outlet.
Connect electrical connector to pump.
Connect electrical connector for solenoid to connector on the new hose assembly.
Connect the hose with the white nipple to the vacuum source hose.
Connect the remaining hose to the shut off valve.
Install shield covering AIR pump.
Remove coolant reservoir nut nearest the battery.
Route new hose assembly between the battery and the coolant reservoir with the solenoid on top.
Install the solenoid bracket onto the coolant reservoir stud and reinstall the nut back into the vehicle.
Use a wire tie to keep the new hose assembly away from the engine. On four cylinder engines, tie to the AIR outlet hose. On six cylinder engines, tie to an available hole in the radiator fan shroud.
12590627 Hose Assembly - Secondary Air Injection
12568324 Pump, Secondary Air Injection for 2001 L35 + 2000-2003 L43/LN2
12560095 Pump, Secondary Air Injection for 1999-2000 L35
Hope that helps
Posted on Mar 06, 2010
Hi. I'm reading your request.
Your S10 . has a small fuse box Next to the battery.
1 - air solenoid 10 amp.
1 - air fuse 30 amp.
1 - Mini relay (air relay)
On under hood main fuse block you have.
1 - fuse Engine E 10 amp.
Posted on Jul 12, 2008
The most common cause is either a bad air pump (under your battery tray) and/or a bad SAS check valve which is connected in to your exhaust next to the firewall in the engine compartment. It could also be a bad relay for the motor. Less common, but possible, other bad components are the vacuum solenoid that controls the SAS valve, which is located by the radiator or a broken/leaking vacuum line to or from the solenoid.
You can test the motor by jumping the relay or applying 12v straight to it. If the motor runs it most likely is not the problem. If not, it's likely that there is water in it and you should replace both the motor and SAS valve. The SAS valve is a pain to get unbolted, at least on turbo cars. You can check the solenoid by just making sure there is vacuum going to the SAS valve a few seconds after starting up the car cold, and checking the lines for any obvious wear in the rubber elbows or breaks in the plastic line.
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
17828/P1420/005152 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112): Electr. Malfunction
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Posted on Jun 18, 2010
Usual causes are air in air pump, solenoid malfunction, the secondary air check valve, or loss of power to pump solenoid. Pinched, loose, cracked, or broken hoses can also cause this code.
Posted on Oct 18, 2010
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