Question about 2004 Mercury Mountaineer

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I bought a new battery and still wont start

It will start real good for a day and then it needs cable again

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Have you had the alternator checked? may not be charging the battery.

Posted on Oct 30, 2012

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You may have an excessive current drain (look up parasitic drain) on the battery.Check these in this order:

1) Is there any interior light, or any other accessories left on when the vehicle is stopped? Is the trunk light allowed to stay on? Turn these all off if so.
2) Is there a stereo allowed to stay on with the engine off? If so, re-wire it to always turn off when ignition is switched off.
3) Is the vehicle fitted with an alarm? Does the alarm have a backup battery for the siren?
If you have a multimeter with ammeter, then please follow these instructions:
Test 1) With the ignition turned OFF, disconnect the positive terminal of the vehicle's battery and connect the multimeter (switched to amps setting) in series with the battery's positive terminal and the positive lead of the battery. BE SURE to make sure that your stereo does not require a key code later, or that you have the code to input when this test is over and you need to reconnect the battery.Take the keys out of the ignition, close the vehicle's doors (if there is a hood switch for the alarm, then tape it closed, make sure everything is turned off, and that the vehicle alarm is NOT set.
Keep an eye on your ammeter. A typical and normal battery drain on most cars after ten minutes will read 0.03 amps. If your vehicle shows this figure, then everything is good so far. (If higher than this figure, proceed to test 2 below.) If around this 0.03 amps range, then set the vehicle's alarm. Recheck amp draw. If exceeding around 0.06 amps, then alarm is likely faulty. Most likely cause is any back-up battery within the alarm's siren unit has failed.
Test 2: If amp draw exceeds 0.03 amps at rest, then locate vehicle's interior fuse box, and start pulling fuses one by one and then retesting. The way I would proceed with this is first take out the fuse for the interior lights. This allows you to first read your multimeter and see of amps have dropped back to normal, and then continue pulling other fuses with the interior lights off completely. This will ensure the interior lights cannot interfere with your readings as you continue.Pull the radio/stereo fuse. The stereo is the second most common cause of parasitic drain after the alarm system.Every time you pull a fuse but register no change in amp draw, then replace the fuse and continue until you pull a fuse which causes the amp draw to drop considerably. That fuse will be the system which is at fault and will lead you to your remedy.
When you have completed your diagnostics, then remember to reset your vehicle's clock, stereo codes, radio station presets. You may notice that the vehicle's performance may have changed slightly after the battery has been disconnected for several minutes.
Most vehicle ECUs are learning computers and have the basic ability to adjust the vehicle's performance to suit your style of driving. After a few minutes driving around again, your vehicle's engine computer will adjust the engine's performance to best suit your driving characteristics. The computers memory will typically be erased every time you disconnected the vehicle's battery for an extended period.

If none of the above helps, then please repost.

Posted on Oct 30, 2012

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I just bought a new battery and now my car wont start. It turns over sometimes and then others no. I started it and made it home. But now it wont start again.??

Your problem may not have been the battery at all, but corroded connections somewhere between the battery and the starter.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal (always) first, then the positive. Inspect the cables at the battery clamps and make sure they are not corroded away under the insulation by flexing them close to the clamps. If they bend easily, you need new cables.
If those appear to be OK, follow the positive (red) cable down to the starter or solenoid terminal, remove and clean this.
Follow the negative (black) cable to its other end (could be chassis or engine block), remove and clean this too.
If the starter still isn't responsive, the starter (or solenoid if separate) may have failed.
Whether external or internal, the solenoid has to handle 100-150 amperes which caused the heavy copper contacts to eventually arc themselves to death, often by becoming intermittent at first, then not contacting enough to supply current to the starter.
If the starter has a hump on its side, this is the solenoid and is replaced with the starter. Some vehicles use an external solenoid (this is just a very beefy relay) and you may have found it while cleaning connectors.
When RE-connecting the battery, always connect the negative terminal last.

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