Outlander/Peugeot 4007 reversed into stump and smashed oil resivour near diff
Hi, I have just reversed into a low tree stump and smashed the plastic oil housing right next to the rear diff.
what is this housing for and how hard is for me to repair. any tips of tricks?
the car is a Peugeot 4007 2010, which is basically the same as the outlander but with a diesel engine.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The engine bearing clearances expand with heat which, if excessive, will lower the oil pressure. The spring in the pressure regulator in the oil pump will cause the pressure to drop for the same reason. A partially plugged oil intake screen will work in conjunction with the oil pump to cause it too.
I have the same vehicle, with the same issue. I had put the car on a rack and lifted it to pin point the cause of the clunk when shifting from park to reverse or reverse to drive. I found that the front diff mounts were grenaded, meaning they needed to be replace bad. with these mounts being bad it was causing the front diff housing to slam the frame up and down when shifting from park or reverse to drive. this is pretty expensive to fix, your talking $160 in parts and $540 in labor. I also had the service 4WD warning display on my dash cluster, i had the code read. It came up as a bad solenoid in the rear diff. this is about $200 parts and labor to fix. Also, dont know how many miles are on your jeep but if you've ever sub-merged your axles under water or if your over 60,000 miles you need to replace your gear oil in the front diff, rear diff and transfer case. This is a little costly to have a mechanic do as well because you're supposed to use synthetic gear oil. For a shop to do it you're looking at $360.
the front diff has a sensor telling the control unit it when it is engaged (or not). It probably is, and it won't disengage. or the sensor is stuck. The selector lever tells the control unit you want 2WD but the sensor thinks the front axle is engaged. So it flashes.
When shifting to 2WD, normally the front axle will come free after a load change or a bit of turning the steering from side to side, but it sometimes happens that it gets stuck. You can find out:
lift the car free off ground, then select drive forward in 2WD. If the front wheels do not turn, then the sensor may be faulty or stuck. if the front wheels turn in 2WD mode, the diff is stuck and the sensor tells you so. Same or similar problem can happen with the center diff, by the way, on pajero/montero, etc.
Winfried, the perfessa
the oil filter should be to the right of the head at the front it is in an aluminium housing with a black plastic top on it with a 27mm nut on it
as for draining the oil you drain it through the sump plus as you normally would
Give the old man a pat on the back! There is an oil plug on the rear differential. On a level surface, remove the plug; if oil starts to flow out, the fluid is full. If no oil flows, carefully put your finger in the hole and feel for the oil level. Your finger should go no lower than the first knuckle before you feel oil. If it goes further, you are low on oil and should either fill it up or better yet replace it. Rear axle oil doesn't get replaced nearly often enough in most vehicles and since your truck is 18 years old, would be a bad idea to have it changed. Best of luck.