Question about 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix

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When i turn the key there is a loud rapid clicking. the engine doesn't crank over, is this a bad solenoid?

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  • benevers0905 Jan 03, 2009

    so can i just bypass the solenoid like with a screwdriver just to get it started?

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Most definetly sounds like the solenoid dying on you , clean the starter or rebuild it if you have the means .how many times are you going to crawl under it . new starter if you can handle it and only fix it once. gl...

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

  • dwayne sagh
    dwayne sagh Jan 04, 2009

    if it's a standard make sure it's not in gear or you'll get drove over and could result in a bad trip to hospital ....but ya that will give you some idea if your solenoid is sticking or defective

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Yes but its part of the starter and is usually replaced as a pair

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

  • Michael Fleischer Jan 06, 2009

    replace starter and solenoid as one unit once the solenoid dies it wont work

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I turn the key on no lights come on but solenoid clicks rapidly on fender and starter kicks on and off


You need at least 11 volts to crank a Ford engine.
Check the voltage at the battery and the solenoid, also check the ground cables and connections.
Could be a faulty solenoid or starter, or a bad connection.

Aug 02, 2012 | 1994 Ford F350 Crew Cab

1 Answer

I have a 96 pontiac grand am that doesnt start all the time


Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All

Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be some­thing as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.

Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a prob­lem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter sole­noid.

Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this prob­lem.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a single, hard clunk. Turn the headlights on and try again. Do the lights dim slightly when you turn the key? If so, you probably have a bad starter or a seized engine. If the headlights don't dim at all, or just barely dim, there may be a connection problem between the starter solenoid and the starter itself.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.

Starting Problem #2: Engine Cranks but It Won't Start

Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.

Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.

Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.

Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.


Starting Problem # 3: Engine Starts but It Shuts Off

Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you

Jul 21, 2011 | 1996 Pontiac Grand Am

3 Answers

When I turn the key to start the engine, the engine does not crank and there is a loud, rapid clicking sound. I'm certain it has to do with the starter or solenoid, but can't recall my high school...


The rapid clicking sound is a low battery, or a starter motor that has a bad selenoid or is drawing to much current.

Check the voltage of your battery/ if you have a voltmeter, if not turn on the headlights and see if they get real dim when you turn the key to try and start the engine.

If you take the starter to Autozone they can test it for you.

You may also have some battery terminals that need cleaned and tightened.

Good Luck.

Nov 03, 2010 | 2001 Toyota Sienna

1 Answer

When I turn the key to start the engine, the engine does not crank and there is a loud, rapid clicking sound. I'm certain it has to do with the starter or solenoid, but can't recall my high school...


Pop the bonnet and check your battery terminals, most likely you are not getting enough charge from your battery, if they are loose, tighten them, if this doesn't work you will need to charge your battery.

Nov 03, 2010 | 1996 Toyota Corolla

2 Answers

When i turn my key all i hear is a click is that my starter?


A single click is the solenoid on the starter engaging. This is a pretty typical symptom of a bad starter if everything else seems normal.

Rapid repeated clicking while the key is in the crank position is a good sign the battery is to weak to turn the engine over.

Back to the single click. Try turning the key to the crank position rapidly and repeatedly. Sometimes this will make the starter work wich will also confirm that it is bad.

Oct 12, 2010 | 2003 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

When I turn the key I get a rapide clicking sound


Check your ground wire for battery where it connects to your frame.

Also check/clean the connections where the positive wire goes to the starter solenoid. Any connection you run into from the battery, clean them off with a wire brush or sandpaper.

Starter Solenoid can also be failing/dead, these can be tested for free at most auto part stores if you remove them from the vehicle.

Jun 17, 2010 | 1998 Chevrolet C2500

1 Answer

Clicks when attempting to start


If it is just one click per attempt, it may be a bad solenoid on the starter or fire wall relay
If it rapid clicking, it is probably a low battery charge.
Turn on your head lights and check for brightness, leave them on and attempt to crank engine, if the lights go dim, the battery is probably dead. If they stay bright, one of the solenoids ( relays) is probably bad.

Apr 30, 2010 | 1994 Chrysler New Yorker

1 Answer

2004 ss siverado 6.0. engine does no crank


check to see if starter relay clicks while turning key to start position,if it does click check to see if voltage is reaching starter solenoid..if voltage at post on starter solenoid,but not cranking replace bad starter..(starter relay is located in fuse panel under hood..place finger on it while someone turns key to crank position ..should feel light click)

Dec 27, 2009 | 2004 Chevrolet Silverado

2 Answers

1996 honda civic wont start


Hi Meadors,

The clicking sound you heard most likely the starter solenoid engaging the starter. Only in this case it's failing to engage the starter. This is a classic symptom of a low battery. Here's why.

In a perfect world, when you turn the key to start:
  1. the solenoid is fed 12VDC which engages an electromagnetic coil inside it.
  2. A spring loaded steel piston inside this coil reacts to the magnetic field. It is pulled against the spring. By itself this sounds like a loud decisive CLICK.
  3. The movement of the piston simultaneously pushes the starter gear into the flywheel and sends power to the starter via heavy duty contacts. The starter draws a lot of power.
  4. The starter spins, turns the engine, the engine starts, life is good.
  5. When the key is released, the solenoid disengages, the spring pushes the piston back, the starter gear disengages from the flywheel.
In our world, when you turn the key to start:
  1. The solenoid which draws it's share of power engages as before. Click.
  2. As the starter tries to spin, the power available is insufficient. It draws all remaining power, there isn't enough left to keep the solenoid active and it turns off.
  3. Since the starter isn't drawing power anymore, the solenoid re-engages and the cycle starts over. Click.
  4. The cycle repeats. Click. A series of rapid clicks. Same page?
While a dead battery is the prime suspect, there can be other causes. Things to do:

  • Check belts, specifically on the alternator.
  • Terminal connections clean and tight.
  • In the 'Let's not over look the obvious' department: Battery voltage?
  • Get a jump. Try a jump start.
  • If a jump gets you going, it is either the battery not holding a charge or the alternator not providing one.
Even new batteries can be bad off the shelf. Especially if they have been on that shelf for a while. They may show the voltage but not the amps. This is called a 'Surface Charge'.

If you don't have a voltmeter, what you need to do now is visit an auto parts store (not a shop). Most (in the hope of making a sale) will provide free testing of batteries and charging systems.

What you need is called a "Load Test" on the battery. It simulates the load of an engine being started. This will confirm the battery is good or bad.

Then with the car running, they need to check the voltage to the battery (they will know this). If it's not above +13VDC, the alternator is bad or not connected correctly.

And if it doesn't start, what better place to be?

Let me know what they and you find out by commenting.
Best regards
Mike

Jan 05, 2009 | 1996 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Starter clicks rapidly, not cranking, no ignition


It almost sounds like you have a loose connection at the battery. If the connection is loose it can cause the starter to click as you have described. Also it could be the starter itself. If the starter is bad (locked up) it can make the clicking noise and not start the engine. If you can get to the starter, try to tap on it with a hammer while someone is trying to start the engine. I hope this helps.

Jan 03, 2009 | 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix

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