Question about 2000 Subaru Forester

1 Answer

Shudder on full lock turning

On full lock at low speeds, there is a pronounced shudder that can be felt and heard. I hear that this is a problem with the differential and that it would need to be replaced. I changed the differential fluid, and it seemed to help, but did not fix the problem. The issue is not present after short drives, but is very apparent after driving for 20 or 30 minutes. Any ideas

Posted by on

  • Jamie Alton
    Jamie Alton Oct 30, 2012

    Is it an automatic box?I had this issue once on a customer's Legacy, which turned out after much fault finding to be his gearbox computer which was faulty. It throws up no fault codes when faulty as it cannot diagnose itself.Is the shudder from the rear, or at the front? Also check that you haven't had any new suspension items, which could be misaligned or tyres replaced which could be rubbing on your wheel arches when turning.

  • runninshirts
    runninshirts Oct 30, 2012

    It is a MT. The sound feels like it is coming from the back. It is not a tire rubbing issue since the tires are new and it developed almost a year after I bought them. I have had no new suspension items put on and a mechanic said that all the suspension components were in good order. I initially thought that it was the front CV joints (the boots were ripped) but it did no good. The problem persisted after replacement. Any other ideas?

×

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Top Expert:

    An expert who has finished #1 on the weekly Top 10 Fixya Experts Leaderboard.

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

  • Subaru Master
  • 76,673 Answers

Just because you changed the fluid doesn't mean if this is automatic transmission clutch plate chatter that will cure it. I have fixed this issue by using synthetic transmission fluid from REDLINE OIL. You can also try adding 3 ounces of STALUBE limited slip differential anti friction additive, it will not affect the transmission in any way but it does cure clutch plate chatter..

Posted on Oct 30, 2012

Ad

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad
  • 58 Answers

SOURCE: what is the selenoid that controls the

I have a solution for you that I know will work, because it has on both of my 1992 Legacy wagons, but first I should explain why your question proceeds from a false assumption. The fuse you mention only exists on vehicles with the 4 speed ecectronically controlled automatic transmission (4EAT)and it asserts "forced front wheel drive mode" by signaling the TCU (transmission contol unit). When the fuse is not inserted the TCU regulates a slip clutch using duty cycle solenoid "C" to optimally adjust the degree of AWD (the front/rear power split) for the present vehicle speed, engine RPM, throttle setting, front and rear driveshaft speeds, and ATF temperature. When the fuse is inserted the TCU allows the clutch to slip freely. The TCU is self diagnosing, and has failure mode fallback strategies. if there duty solenoid C fails, the TCU will always assert AWD withj a 50/50 power split (the clutch is locked when solenoid C fails). The TCU signals failures using the POWER light, much as the CHECK ENGINE light signals errors from the ECU. However, one critical difference is that when a failure is detected, the TCU goes into limp-home mode but illuminate the POWER lamp until the next power-off power-on cycle. (see http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html for details on how to get detailed self-dignostic codes from the TCU without any special tools.)

Subaru service information says that the vehicle should not be driven in forced FWD mode, it is to be used for diagnostic purposes only. (It was provided to allow the vehicle to allow the vehicle be emission tested using a FWD dynamometer. In the USA the dynamometer test requirement was waived for AWD drive before it went into effect.) I don't have a detailed explanation of why, but since duty solenoid C is ON to allow the front/rear clutch to slip, it may fail prematurely if always-on.

Let me begin with the solution and then explain it.- you need to change the transmission filter and fluid, and drain and refill the fron and rear differential fluids. The AT uses simple Dextron II or III (get 2 gallons) and the diffferential both use 80W-90W old fashioned non-synthetic gear oil. You will need roughly 5 quarts for both,

Now for the explanation. When you inserted the fuse and disabled all wheel drive, you eliminated the the center differential action in the AT and the rear differential. When any car turns there is a left-right speed difference,and in an AWD car, there is also a front-rear speed difference. The noise you heard is a symptom of the drivetrain binding up during a turn. There will also usually be noticable lumpy turning moments when the tires jump-slip accomplishing the differential travel, but only on dry pavement. There may also be unpleasant symptoms when accelerating on moderately slick pavement.

You most pressing symptom is caused by the rear differential locking up because of either insuffiicient gear oil, aging gear oil suffering viscosity breakdown, or the wrong gear oil (either synthetic or higher viscosity conventional). The front and rear differentials in the car are limited slip differentials. They rely on the properties of 80-90W gear oil properly filled and in good condition.

Because its connected to the engine heat, the front differential oil will be in worse condition than the rear, and you would probably find that only draining and refilling the rear makes a big difference, but not enough or the problem comes back in a few weeks. When you put it in FWD only mode putting all the power is in the front, it has more incentive to slip, masks the problem temporarily.

You also need to change the ATF filter and drain and fill the AT because the center (front-rear) differential action is accomplished in the AT, and the problem will only resurface for that reason as well. The conventional ATF in these transmissions begins to suffer viscosity breakdown in as little as 10,000 miles and since no one changes the ATF and filter in an aging car afer you drain it you should drop and clean the AT pan and change the filter and gasket. It would be all but impossible not to strip the threads in the aluminum housing putting the rusted screws back in. (they pass through the flange and the tips corrode). Buy new screws at the hardware store and put then in with blue threadlocker. Be careful not to overtighten, but if one strips use heli-coil inserts to make thread repairs.

Posted on Apr 06, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 76673 Answers

SOURCE: center differential

What you are discribing sure sounds like CV (constant volocity) joint noise from the axle(s), diff's don't make crunching noises, they whine and howl when they go bad, I will say this about your problem, you did not have it before the work was done, so it's a fair guess it has something to do with the work done, make them fix it, do you agree?

Posted on Oct 21, 2008

Murphybanton
  • 2004 Answers

SOURCE: noisey when turning

Power Steering pump problem.

Posted on May 29, 2009

kidspeedy
  • 321 Answers

SOURCE: After high speed driving, slow speed shudder

when it starts to shutter get the car up on a lift and spin the wheels and look and see if there is a wheel bubble.
if the brakes were done recently a binding brake pad can cause some of that.
hope this helps

jm

Posted on Jul 03, 2009

  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: wheels making binding noises when turning

I have this same problem with my 1996 Subaru Legacy 2.2 Wagon. There is a Subaru Service Bulletin #16-62-97 dated 5/16/97 with a Subject entitled "Transfer Clutch Binding And/Or Bucking On Turns". There is also an important follow-up to it numbered 16-64-99 dated 09/15/99 entitled "Revised Transfer Clutch Assembly Replacement Procedures" that should also be used should you decide to go ahead with the transfer clutch replacement.

I just got these Service Bulletins from my mechanic who got them from a Subaru dealer.
The estimate was about $700-$1000 to fix. This is more than likely the cause of the binding problem on slow, sharp turns.

Dan Hunt
Danbury, CT

Posted on Aug 04, 2009

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

2006 dodge ram 1500 low speed steering shudder


The 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 goes from 0-to-60-mph in just over 5 seconds with a top speed of 150 mph. Hope this helps!---------------------------------------------------------
Multi-Diag Access

Dec 04, 2012 | 2006 Dodge Ram 1500

1 Answer

Steering shudders when turning at low speeds


Hi,
Please check you power steering fluid. It should be described in the owner's manual if you're not familiar.

Td

Nov 06, 2012 | 1999 Buick Regal

2 Answers

2007 Dodge Durango. Clicking/knocking noise heard and felt through the floor more so front passenger and driver, usually occurs during braking or cornering, will hear it if I turn a direction eg right, if...


Hi there,

it could be:

>wheels rubbing on inside of wheel arch
>steering linkage hitting something

Try putting the car on a lift/ if you can, and get someone to steer it full lock to full lock both sides whilst you observe the steering mechanism, then you might be able to see what's happening.

Have a nice day :)

Jul 14, 2017 | Dodge Durango Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 2000 Pontiac Sunfire SE Sedan that makes a clunking sound when turning and manuevering at low speed that can be heard and felt on the floorboard and through the steering wheel. What can I do to...


hard to diagnose without hearing my self but from your description i would say it one of your half-shaft
best thing to do for sure is to take it to a repair shop most will take for test drive and diagnose the problem for free

Nov 22, 2010 | 2000 Pontiac Sunfire

1 Answer

My 1998 Toyota Corolla is having an issue with the steering - starting yesterday, when turned to the left or right an audible grinding noise could be heard and felt - there was also resistance, to the...


The noise you are hearing and feeling is very likely due to a low fluid level. I'd suggest you start by filling the power steering reservoir to the correct level with the correct fluid. Cycle the steering from lock to lock a few times to see if the noise gets better or goes away completely. Monitor the fluid level to determine how quickly the fluid leaks out and also to see if you can tell where the leak is coming from.

Be aware though that the longer you drive the car with a low fluid level condition, the more damage you will cause and the more expensive the repair will be.

Apr 04, 2017 | 1998 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

1998 Honda CR-V makes low pitched shuddering or growling noise intermittently when turning sharp right or left at very low speeds.


YOU should find that if you let off the turn a bit and not turn on hard full lock,, now do this stopped and someone sitting in the drivers seat and bonnet open and turning the steering wheel with engine running in idle
if the noise goes and the shuddering goes then its the powered steering pump is either low in fluid or airrating or if belt driven then see if belt is trying to stop on full lock and if it is then try a new belt or other wise its the pump faulty.

Oct 14, 2009 | Honda CR-V Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Cracking noise heard/felt when turn to the left


Have you determined where the noise is coming from? I have heard noises like you describe when a Constant Velocity joint has gone bad in a front wheel drive car. You need to determine which side it's coming from left or right and if it is coming from a worn CV joint your best fix is to have the axle replaced and have the other one checked to be sure it's not going to fail shortly after you replace the one that is bad.

Aug 18, 2009 | 2003 BMW 325

1 Answer

Shuddering uphill


How full was the gas tank? Maybe the tank was low and gas sloshed away from fuel pump pick up tube. Try shifting out of overdrive when going up hills, you might be lugging the engine at too slow of speed ( running at too low of RPM's compared to where engine makes it's peak torque, mixed with it being a heavy SUV can cause chugging or shuddering).

Jul 21, 2009 | 2001 Mitsubishi Montero Sport 4WD

1 Answer

Shudder 4wd


Check tire size and add a Limited Slip additive in the transfer case!

Apr 18, 2009 | 2004 Ford F150

2 Answers

Scraping sound at very low speed (5MPH)


I have personally seen a lot of wheel bearings go bad on these vehicles. If you hear the noise get more pronounced when turning left, the right front (passenger side) bearing is most likely the culprit- if turning right, it would be the left front (driver side) bearing.

Hope this is helpful!!


Nissan Scope Technician- 10+ years experience in Nissan dealership

Nov 10, 2008 | 2004 Nissan Maxima

Not finding what you are looking for?
2000 Subaru Forester Logo

1,721 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Subaru Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

76649 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22219 Answers

Jeff Turcotte
Jeff Turcotte

Level 3 Expert

8522 Answers

Are you a Subaru Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...