- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
you need to pull the timing back apart pull the number one spark plug and role the motor over by hand to top dead center on the compression stroke the the mark for the crank should be lined up or almost lined up line it up perfect on its mark then set the cam to its mark install belt role over by hand 2to4 full rotation marks should line up perfect . install crank pulley fire it up for a split second shut it off and put it all back together
Engine Cranks But Will Not Start
Basic Checks: A. Test Fuses. Test both under hood power distribution center and the fuse panel under dash. This is done with a test light tool. The test light should illuminate on both sides of the fuse, if not the fuse has failed and needs to be replaced.
B. Testing Fuel Pressure Test for proper fuel pressure with a test gauge on the fuel rail, most throttle body injection cars (TBI) are between 13 psi and 17 psi. and most (DPI) direct port inject systems are between 40 psi and 55 psi. If no or little fuel pressure is observed and there is 12 volt power present the fuel pump, the fuel pump needs replacing.
C. Checking Timing Belt Test for compression by removing a spark plug and insert a compression gauge. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds the gauge should read between 125 psi and 165 psi, if no compression is observed remove front engine cover to inspect timing belt or chain. Crank engine to observe cam rotation, if the cam does not rotate the timing belt or chain has failed. (note: if the timing belt drives the water pump it is best to replace the water pump at this time)
D. Test for Injector Pulse Remove injector connector to insert injector test light (node) or volt meter. Observe light flash or gauge pulse while cranking. If light/voltmeter doesn't respond, an ignition distributor/crank angle sensor (CKS) or an ignition module is most likely your problem.
E. Test for Ignition Spark Remove spark plug wire, insert an extra spark plug into end of wire, rest spark plug next to a ground source then crank engine. You should observe a blue spark between the spark plug gap and ground source. If no spark is observed, an ignition coil, ignition rotor or spark plug wires might have failed. (always keep hands away from engine when cranking)
The ENGINE CROSS-SECTION below (typical 'V-8' ENGINE) shows all main ENGINE components and indicates the exact location of the most HEAT DAMAGE PRONE PARTS - THE HEAD GASKETS.
i would disconnect the battery. removing both the positive and negative battery terminals. with both ends disconnected, hold the two terminals together for about 10 seconds. this will proform a hard reset on most chrysler vehicles. also, if this doesnt work, try turning the key to the on position, and then proforming the hard reset procedure.
I would suggest that you have incorrectly timed the engine.The proper way is to set number one cylinder to top dead centre on the compression stroke, if you look at the harmonic balancer on the front of the engine you should see a groove that marked top dead centre.With the engine at set at top dead centre take the distributed out of its mounting. with the cap removed, you should find a small market on the top face of the distributor body. This might only be a small mark but it is on the flange where the cap normally sits. When you insert the distributor the mark on that distributor casing should line up with the distributor rotor button. You may have to remove the distributor slightly so that you can line up the rotor a button. You may in fact have to do this two or three times until you get the marks lined up. Then check the firing order of your engine, this is normally marked somewhere on the engine. Once you have done this you should find the engine will start, you may have to adjust the advance on the distrubor to 4 to 12 degrees before TDC with a timing light. regards
well try removing the distributor and spin it around half way 180 degrees then try. it seems you are off there are two ways to install the distributor because two turns for the crank equal one for the distributor.if still wont start call on me again i will help you .
ok. first off, if you dont have any of the spark plugs in and you turn the engine over to crank, its not going to sound the same as when it does with them in. If indeed you do see the cam shaft turning, then the engine is cranking over because the starter goes to the flywheel/flexplate, to the crank, and the crank goes to the camshaft so if you have everything put back together exactly the way it came off, you should be alright. Individually check each cylinder for compression with a compression tester. What kind of work did you do to the head? If you removed it to work on it did you have it resurfaced before re-installing it? Did you thoroughly clean and prep the gasket areas? Let me know how this turns out.
I recommend taking apart the intake and cleaning it thouroughly, including the vacuum hoses from the valve cover to the intake hose. I had a very similar problem and it cured mine wonderfully. It took me about 3 hours to dissasemble and clean everything with carb cleaner and re-install it all. For clarity, I took off everything from the airbox to the intake of the engine, including the large aluminum air duct that covers the top of the engine and exposes the spark plugs. Which is a great time to change plugs and wires by the way.