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92 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L manual transmission starts and idles, although rough, in neutral, drives great with lots of power, but when getting ready to come o a stop and foot come off the accelerator

The only other thing I noticed, when it starts to stall, the RPM's drop very rapidly and when you press the accelerator to keep it going it sputters a bit first as if there's air or no gas going through right away.

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  • aliplus2n2
    aliplus2n2 Oct 30, 2012

    We have already replaced the IAC, TPS, spark plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor, and fuel filter, as well as cleaned out the throttle body.

  • aliplus2n2
    aliplus2n2 Oct 30, 2012

    Also, it's not pressing the brake that causes it, it's simply removing your foot from the accelerator once you're driving. While it's moving it drives great with a lot of power, only stalls in gear when not pressing the accelerator

  • aliplus2n2
    aliplus2n2 Nov 03, 2012

    Thank you, Dennis, while your solution definitely helped the problem it didn't fix it. Turns out the pulse ring in the distributor was sliding on the plastic plate it's mounted to and it's supposed to be stationary. Funny how every website and dakota manulal mentions nothing about checking for that except for one. Well, funds are low so a new distributor is out f the question right now, so I tried what one other did in the one forum I found it in. He had superglued it back in its proper place to the plate, I used non flammable heat resistant epoxy, and low and behold voila!!! No shaking, no surging, no stalling.

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 1,007 Answers

Clean or replace idle control valve on throttle body.

Posted on Oct 30, 2012

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

emissionwiz
  • 75108 Answers

SOURCE: car idles low, stalls after start

Common issue at the shop (i'm a ford technician), here is what I do to correct it.
Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls at stops and low erratic idle speed and rough idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve (IAC for short), they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

WildBill49
  • 97 Answers

SOURCE: 1989 dodge Ramcharger stalls

Hi Monkeypaint!
I assume you have power brakes and I gather that it idles properly at times, but dies when the brakes are applied. This sound like a leaking power brake assist vacuum line or diaphram. You can verify this by locating the big vacuum hose connecting the intake manifold to the assist diaphram. This will be about an inch in diameter connected to the round item behind the brake master cylinder next to the firewall.

  1. Disconnect the line at the intake manifold end, and plug the vacuum port on the manifold with a tapered rubber stopper or cap.
  2. Being aware that you now do NOT have power assist to the brakes (requiring CONSIDERABLY more pedal pressure to stop!!!), see if the problem goes away. If it does, you have narrowed it down to the assist diaphram or the hose. If it still persists, it is an engine tuning/control issue, not related to brakes.
  3. Do determine whether it is the vacuum hose or the cannister, remove the previously installed cap/plug, reinstall the hose to the intake manifold, disconnect it from the diaphram and plug/cap the hose at that end. Repeat step three... if the problem returns, the hose is leaking and should be replaced... If the problem still goes away, the Power Brake Assist Diaphram Cannister is leaking excessively and should be replaced.
  • ***ALSO*** Any other vacuum lines leaking can lower the manifold vacuum to a threshold level where the load of power brake assist actuation crosses the line for adequate vacuum to idle*** So check all vacuum lines underhood, looking for a pronounced hissing at vacuum leaks. A manifold vacuum gauge is a relatively inexpensive diagnostic tool that could also be useful.
Well, hope this helps, and good luck! Don't forget to rate this answer!
Thanks!
-WB

Posted on Jun 15, 2008

astruttman
  • 45 Answers

SOURCE: my 1996 dodge stratus stalls at idle

  1. Consider the complexity of your car before beginning and take your car to a trusted repair shop. Modern cars (mid-nineties or later) are extremely computer controlled, and it will be difficult for you to make any adjustments. You will want to take it into the shop to address this problem.
  2. The stall is likely caused by either a problem in the electrical system or in the fuel system. Your engine stops running because it is not igniting gas in the cylinders, this occurs either because there isn't gas to ignite, or because it lacks the electrical charge to ignite it.
  3. Drive the car up and down steep hills. Does this change the performance of the engine, or cause it to stall? This might indicate a clogged fuel filter. Replacing the fuel filter is relatively cheap and easy once you find out where it's located.
  4. Does the car idle roughly and stall when at idle? If your car has a distributor, you may need to adjust the timing. With the right tools and know how, this is an easy and free task. If your vehicle has fuel injection, you can check the injector by using a screw driver or mechanics scope. The injectors will make a clicking/snapping sound if working. No sound would indicate a bad injector available at most DIY auto parts stores. Also check the ICM, idle control motor that controls the air mixture.
  5. If your car has a distributor, you might consider changing the cap, rotor, wires and plugs. This is effectively a tune up. This can usually be done even by a relative novice to car repair, and take a couple of hours with the right tools. It seems counterintuitive, but even the wires and distributor decay over time, and transmit less electricity. This tune up may solve your stalling problem -- even if not, your car should run better and get better mileage.
  6. If your car diesels when you turn off the ignition, it often signals the need to replace the spark plugs. Dieseling describes the situation where you turn off the key, yet the car continues to run for a few seconds or longer, eventually sputtering to a stop.
  7. In rare cases, your car may stall due to what is commonly called a "vapor lock". It is actually a vacuum in the fuel line that causes fuel to eventually stop reaching the engine. Try opening your gas cap. If you hear a "whooshing" sound, like when you open a can of coffee, it's vapor lock. Now try starting the car. It should work after a couple tries. This is usually found only in older cars. If you have it, this will probably happen again, so your fuel line should be checked for blockage. A cheap fix is to drill a small hole in your gas cap to allow air in and prevent the vacuum from forming, but it should not be left this way.

Posted on Jan 12, 2009

  • 260 Answers

SOURCE: rough idling lack of power

Try replacing the fuel filter.
Check for a vaccum leak

Posted on Apr 10, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1998 Dodge Dakota 5.2l V8 Stalling.

the sensors are located behind the catlet converter they sometimes look like a spark pulg if you cant find it pick up a book at any autoparts store and that will tell you where it is and how to change it

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

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