This is simple enough to do but if you are not experianced i would recomend not doing it. first it is a bit labor intensive and second the consequences of not doing it properly are more then just having to re-do it. i had a shop do this same job on my car and they ones who do this sort of thing for a living had to replace my motor because a part dropped into the engine. i considered doing it myself but in hindsite very happy to pay the money to have it done right.
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Check the intake manifold gasket. If it leaks it will draw air into engine and this air bypasses the mass air flow sensor which will cause a rough idle or running symptom from running too lean. If you change the intake manifold gasket you should probably change the valley pan gasket at the same time. A dealer will change both for less than $500 and you might save some more if you dig around on GM Service website and find a coupon discount (Usually 10%-20%). You might save more at a local shop if you trust them and they do this type of work. Getting to the intake manifold gasket also exposes the valley pan and since you are already there it only takes a little more to change that gasket too. Some GM V-8 engines use a little oil between oil changes and if both gaskets are meticulously changed at the same time it will sometimes fix the oil usage. It did for me on my Tahoe (126k miles).
Coolant leaks,When the intake manifold gasket cracks or blows out, coolant will leak out of the intake manifold. You may see puddles underneath your car or notice smoke or steam coming off of the engine and exhaust from the coolant dripping onto it and then burning.Overheating, If the intake manifold gasket fails and allows coolant to leak out into the engine, your car will begin to overheat. If your car frequently runs low on coolant or begins to overheat, check the intake manifold gasket.Running poorly, When the intake manifold gasket falters, it affects the way the motor handles its emission gases. The change in pressure can affect the vacuum in the intake as well as how smoothly your car runs. Mainly, it will idle roughly and may hesitate, cough or sputter.
You have to find the leak and seal it up, hey. It may help to picture where vacuum originates in the engine: As the pistons move down in the cylinders they pull air in from the intake manifold. This creates a pressure drop in the intake, a vacuum that is maintained as the engine is running. New air that is pulled into the intake is measured by the Mass Air Flow sensor mounted in the big boot between the air filter and the intake. If extra air is pulled into the intake manifold from a vacuum leak, uncalibrated air, the computer can figure it out from the oxygen sensors reading in the exhaust-mixture is too lean, so the computer will try to compensate by delivering more fuel, but can't deliver enough, mix is still too lean, so computer sets a code for the vacuum leak. The intake will have a few vacuum taps with hoses running to engine or car controls that require vacuum to operate. If one of the hoses comes off or has a leak, that is extra air into the intake. Your power brake booster has a large vacuum tap. That may be the problem. With the engine running, pull off that line and plug it, and see if engine speed changes. If the idle drops that may be your leak-a failed power brake booster. If nothing yet, keep engine running and spray some starting fluid around the mounting area of the intake manifold (maybe the intake gasket has failed and sprung a leak) and listen for a change in engine pitch or speed. The fluid may get sucked into the intake and cause speed to change. If it does, you would need to remove the intake manifold and fit a new manifold gasket. Also check the big boot from the air filter to the throttle body for tears or loose fit. Good luck, Rev!
This Code usually means that extra air is coming into the engine. The Intake manifold gasket can be leaking or a nearby Vacuum device is broken internally and is drawing in air.
To test for these leaks, with the engine running, you use an old spray bottle of water and spray around the seams of the intake manifold. Any leaks will change the RPM or stall the engine.
Check with an autoparts store for the type of gaskets your intake uses. Some of the V-6 engines used a 2 piece sandwiched design and the two halves had a gasket inbetween. After years of use,the gasket would fail.
I think you have an air leak, a vacuum line loose, or possible intake manifold gasket leaking, maybe your big air intake hose is leaking. spray carb cleaner or soapy water around mating surface of intake and on vacuum lines and connections. If idle changes, there is your leak. good luck.
Either the mass-air sensor is bad, which normally throws a mass-air voltage code, or you definitely have an air leak post the mass-air. Smoke the intake manifold with a smoke machine or spray the whole intake to head, including to brake booster with brake cleaner and listen for a change in idle. Focus on the gasket surface of the intake manifold.
If the manifold was replaced, install or connect the following:
Vacuum source manifold.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve.
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor.
Throttle body assembly.
Upper-to-lower intake manifold carrier gasket to the upper intake manifold.
Carefully place the upper intake manifold onto the lower intake manifold. Ensure that the alignment pins in the upper intake manifold align with the holes in the lower intake manifold.
NOTE: Apply thread lock compound, to the bolt threads before assembly.
Install or connect the following:
Upper intake manifold. Tighten the upper intake manifold bolts in sequence to 89 in lbs (10 Nm)
Accelerator and the cruise control cables with the bracket to the throttle body.
EVAP purge solenoid vacuum line to the throttle body.
Connect the electrical connectors to the following:
Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor
Idle Air Control (IAC) valve
Throttle Position (T/P) sensor
EVAP purge solenoid
Install or connect the following:
Throttle body upper support bracket bolt. Tighten the bolt to 89 in lbs (10 Nm)
EGR valve wiring harness heat shield, nut and the bolt. Tighten the nut and the bolt to 89 in lbs (10 Nm)
Your problem sounds like have air leakage from air induction system. I suggest you to re-check the gasket of Air Intake Manifold you installled or vacuum hoses for possible air leaking.
The easy way to check it, use Throttle Body or Carburator Spray Cleaner. Just spray around intake manifold where gaskets fitted and observe the idle speed, once the idle change or encrease, definetly there is air leak and you have check the gasket or replce it if necessary.
But if doesn't make change, I suggest you to check Idle Air Control Valve, check connector plug, lines and if you have donor unit try to do test part.
I hope you fix your problem and please update me whatever the result if you dont mind. Thanks