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V10, how do you test coil packs? engine light is not coming on power is not there

Seems to be every time we go camping and hit washboards. put bg44 k in and new air filter. recently replace fuel filter. could it be coil packs or injector clips vibrating loose?

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

mudman4300
  • 33 Answers

SOURCE: Triton V10 Engine Shudders under load

have your fuel system vacuumed out our excursion did it as well the injectors are not at fault it is the fuel lines

Posted on Aug 07, 2008

  • 62 Answers

SOURCE: 1999-E350-V10-super duty-misfires/no codes /no check engine light

sounds like you have a dead ignition coil very common problem. to check the ignition coil and fuel injector harness without a scan tool you can use a noid light. it is a 12volt light bulb that connects to the harness side and flashes indicating that the computer is firing the injector and or coil. there is no specifications to check the ignition coils the best way is with a scan tool see witch cylinders have the most counts in the misfire history your local dealer may also be able to perform a cylinder balance test to find the dead hole. unfoutunatly you have to remove the doghouse to access the rear coils and fuel injectors.

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

dturnlund
  • 45 Answers

SOURCE: engine runs rough at idle and bucks at highway

I had a similar problem in a 1994 Taurus, and after spending nearly 300$ on ignition parts, it turns out the problem was a bad spark plug wire that cost me 8.88$ to replace.

Posted on Mar 01, 2010

Testimonial: "n.o. 1 spark plug wire it is. thank you"

  • 5474 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2003 ford

Check for Intake Manifold leaks with either a water mist from a spray bottle or Choke cleaner. Do this while the engine is running and you will know about a leak with an RPM change. I read about some intakes were 2 piece and the intermediate gasket leaks.

Also you could clean the MAF on the air intake with Electric cleaner. If you have an old fashion Vacuum gauge you could plug in and see how steady Valves are closing by watching the Vacuum bounce from misfires.

Would like to know results on this case.

Posted on Nov 03, 2010

dttech
  • 4803 Answers

SOURCE: vehicle came in for check

A misfire at idle that smooths out at cruise is ALMOST ALWAYS caused by a vacuum leak. Take a hard look at your fuel trims at idle. If the Bank 2 Long Term Fuel Trim is more than + a couple points higher than the Bank 1 trim, your problem is most likely a vacuum leak. If the Fuel Trims even-out while holding the engine at 2000 RPM for about 20 seconds, then a vacuum leak is DEFINITELY your problem. I would suspect a leaking lower intake gasket leak because an upper plenum leak will normally affect all cylinders.

Posted on Jan 30, 2011

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I have a 98 vw jetta gl ABA and it wont start run.


I would check for spark on the ignition coil and the spark plug. If no spark, check the power and signal to the ignition coil. The ignition coil large wires are 12volts power and the other three is a signal to electronic firing circuit from ECM. Testing the power is easy, for testing for trigger signal, use a 12v LED test light.
12 Volts test:
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd236/pulga1952/VW/Ignitioncoil.jpg
Signal test:
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd236/pulga1952/VW/Ignitioncoilharness.jpg

Jun 04, 2017 | 1998 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

Have a 1999 ford explorer sport 4x4, cranks want start. have replaced fuel pump, crank senser and cam senser, checked fuzes, replaced computer. doesnt seem to be firing


When you turn the key on you should beable to hear the fuel pump come on. Other than that you have a fuel pressure test port, looks just like a tire valve stem get a little probe press the valve after cranking fuel should come out strongly and not dribble out. If is doesnt seem to be firing your going to have check the coil pack for spark from the coil pack take one plug wire out and put it in a position that as you crank the vehicle you will be able to see spark jump or even hear give it a 1/4 air gap from its connection. If you dont have spark and your timing chain isnt broken you need to check for power the choice of tool is a test light.or volt meter. If you dont have either test tool we will go by sound when you turn the key on the engine fuse box has relays do you hear them click. That click noise will be fuel pump relay and PCM relay for power inpect those relays for corrode connections you mainly have a power problem and inspect for proper ground a missing ground can also cause the ECM to not fire the coils2_26_2012_7_32_43_am.gif

Feb 26, 2012 | 1999 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

Engine runs rough seems like it stutters but still has a good amount of horse power


A tune up may help, plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, if this don't take care of the problem could have a bad coil pack, you can check the coil pack, get some vacuum hose and cut 6 pieces about 3 inches long, put a piece of hose in the plug wire and the other end of hose on the coil, do all 6 wires, do one at a time so you don't get them mixed up, start engine, take a test light hook to ground and touch probe to each piece of vacuum hose, this will short out that cylinder, you should notice engine change, if no change, that coil may not be firing.

Jun 23, 2011 | 1995 Chevrolet Lumina

1 Answer

Cylinder 3 mifire, I have new plugs and wires. Haven't changed any coils yet, but I hear it might be a valve problem. Should I change a coil first? When I hooked a timing light to it it showed it had...


Have you run a compression test of the engine? Have you confirmed you have spark at #3? Is #3 no more than 5% lower than the highest cylinder reading in PSI? ALWAYS run the basic tests before throwing parts at the problem. Also does the injector "pulse" and deliver fuel? When you pull the #3 Spark plug out after cranking the engine does it smell like gas?

Jun 06, 2011 | Saturn SL2 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I had the check engine light come on, so I went by Autozone to have the code reacompd. The result was a cylinder 1 misfire. I then cleared the codes. The light came back on in a few miles. So I...


Yes you can have an "internitent" spark issue, because some misfires only happen under a specific condition, rpm, load, fuel trim. so first things first you have to find out what is cuasing the misfire, GM cars use a 3 pack coil system, and for the most part when you have a misfire on one cylinder you get it on 2 becuase each coil fires 2 times in the engine rotation, so you should pull the coil and check it with an Ohms on each post, now pull another coil pack and check that one agaist the other,then do this one more time with the last, this will give you a good idea, not foul proof though, of weather you have a bed coil before you go buy one, so lets assume that its not the coil pack, check your wire with a KV test, barrow one from autozone, the higher the Kv the faster the spark is going to ground, this will tell you if you have a bad wire / plug, refference it with the rest of the wires, very low Kv cirut is open or has a high resistance, very high Kv, shorted to ground. if it is non of the above then you are looking at replacing a controler that is under the coil packs, this can be tested with about a $6,000 osiliscope, but since you probly don't have one in your garage, better just test everything else and if that all passes just go buy a control moduel. Happy hunting...
Test, retest, and test again, Don't waste money parts swapping.

Mar 31, 2011 | 2008 Chevrolet Malibu Classic

1 Answer

My 92 dakota is not getting any spark


Engine Fails To Start

The "Checking For Spark'' test should be performed prior to this test.

This is a basic test of the ignition system that systematically examines the battery, the coil, the engine controller, and its wiring harness and connections; the most likely culprits in a no-start condition at this stage.
88472304.gif

Fabricate this special jumper with a 0.33 MF capacitor in-line to test the ignition coil
Click to Enlarge

  1. Unplug the ignition coil harness connector at the coil.
  2. Connect a set of small jumper wires (18 gauge or smaller) between the disconnected harness terminals and the ignition coil terminals.
88472314.gif

Terminal locations on the engine controller 14-way connector-1989 models
Click to Enlarge 88472305.gif

Engine controller 60-way connector-relevant terminals for testing are shown numbered
Click to Enlarge

  1. Attach one lead of a a voltmeter to the positive (12V) jumper wire. Attach the negative side of the voltmeter to a good ground. Measure the voltage at the battery and confirm that enough current is available to operate the starting and ignition systems.
  2. Crank the engine for five seconds while monitoring the voltage at the coil positive terminal:
    1. If the voltage remains at zero, diagnosis of the fuel system should be performed. Also check the engine controller and auto shutdown relay.
    2. If voltage is at or near battery voltage and then drops to zero after one or two seconds of engine cranking, check the engine control module circuit.

WARNING

The ignition must be turned OFF prior to unplugging the engine controller connector. If it is not, electrical surging could occur causing damage to the unit or other electrical components in the vehicle.

  1. If the voltage remains at or near battery voltage during the entire five seconds, turn the ignition key OFF. Remove the 14-way connector on 1989 models, or the 60-way connector on 1990-96 models at the engine controller. Check the 14-way or 60-way connector for any spread terminals.
  1. Remove the test lead from the coil positive terminal. Connect an 18 gauge jumper wire between the battery positive terminal and the coil positive terminal.
  2. Make a special jumper cable (see illustration). Using the jumper MOMENTARILY ground terminal 12 on the 14-way connector (1989), or terminal 19 (see illustration) of the 1990-96 60-way connector. A spark should be generated at the coil wire when the ground is removed.
    1. If a spark is generated, replace the engine controller computer.
    2. If no spark is seen, use the special jumper to ground the coil negative terminal directly. If spark is produced, repair the wiring harness for an open circuit condition. If spark is not produced, replace the ignition coil
    this is for distributor ignition
THIS IS TESTING OF DISTRIBUTORLESS IGN
Testing

This procedure requires an ohmmeter to test the coil packs for primary and secondary resistance (specifications are given for an ambient temperature of 70-80°F/21-27°C).
88472320.gif

The two coil packs contain five independent coils, which fire paired cylinders (shown numbered)
Click to Enlarge

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Determine the manufacturer of the coil. It should be labeled either a Diamond or Toyodenso.
88472779.gif

Location of critical terminals for checking the coil primary resistance-V10 engine front coils
Click to Enlarge 88472780.gif

Location of critical terminals for checking the coil primary resistance-V10 engine rear coils
Click to Enlarge

  1. Check the secondary resistance of each individual paired coil by connecting an ohmmeter across the coil towers. This must be done between the correct cylinder pairs: 3/2, 7/4, 1/6, 9/8, or 5/10. Resistance for a Diamond coil should be 11,300-15,300 ohms. For a Toyodenso manufactured coil pack, resistance should be 11,300-13,300 ohms.
88472323.gif

Use an ohmmeter to check secondary resistance as shown

  1. Check the primary resistance of the front coil pack by attaching an ohmmeter between the B+ coil terminal and either the right (cylinders 3/2), center (cylinder 7/4), or left coil (cylinders 1/6) terminals. Resistance for a Diamond coil should be 0.97-1.18 ohms. Resistance for a Toyodenso coil should be 0.95-1.20 ohms.
  2. To test the primary resistance of the rear coil pack, attach an ohmmeter between the B+ coil terminal (see illustration) and either the right (cylinders 9/8), or left (cylinders 5/10) coil terminals. Resistance for a Diamond coil should be 0.97-1.18 ohms. Resistance for a Toyodenso coil should be 0.95-1.20 ohms.
i hope this helps any more questions repl if help at all plz vote or comment me

Jan 17, 2011 | 1995 Dodge Dakota

1 Answer

I have a 2004 GMC Envoy that has all of a sudden developed a rough idle. It seems to get worse as the engine gets hotter. ie: after driving for 15 minutes . Everything else is fine. Runs great, same gas...


there is a small chance that something was knocked loose when they did the test. be that as it may you seem to have one or two problems. one of the sections of the coil pack may be failing and need to be replace. quick test for this is to pull one lead at a time from the coil pack to see if the engine idle changes. the other issue may very well be a vacuum leak. listen for a whisting sound at idle.
if you do need a coil pack the best (cheapest) way to get one is to drop by your local wrecking/recycling/junk yard. my ford windstar used the same coil pack as a toyota, it cost me $40 dollars as opposed to $160 at the dealer.

Robert

Aug 20, 2010 | 2004 GMC Envoy

1 Answer

Not getting spark


Testing the coil packs.

1. Get an INSULATED wire and hook it to a ground on the car.
2. Get some one to help you
3. pull a spark plug wire off the coil
4. hold grounded wire close to, but not touching, the part where the spark plug wire connects
5. keep hands away from coil and have your helper turn the engine over ( start car and turn off)
6. if there was a spark between the wire and the coil pack it is good. if not, the coil pack needs replaced
7. replace the spark plug wire
8. test the rest

Apr 22, 2009 | 2003 Mitsubishi Galant

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