Question about 2003 Volvo XC90
After driving vehicle for an hour shut it down and restarting it within minutes vehicle does not start or long crank dtc for rpm instantly triggers. msg for reduced engine performance comes on. tried new rpm sensor still same problem checked flywheel all ok wiring ok. transmission previously replaced mating surfaces clean. no other dtc present. possible ecm???
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: engine cuts off
If it cuts out after driving a while, one or both fuel pumps are a common culprit. After they warm up, they have a tendency to "fail" for a short while. When they cool back down, they work again. If you don't have any problems caused by lack of fuel while the car is still running, i'd suggest replacing the in-tank pump. If your car lacks power while it's running, your problem is most likely the secondary fuel pump, which provides the fuel system with the higher pressurse required for proper high speed operations. Also, do your fuel filter at the same time, to prevent other problems.
Posted on Nov 04, 2009
The fact that the engine dies without warning and that the effect is intermittent indicates that the problem is electrical and that it is most likely a break of some kind. Start from the top and look at the main fuse and the main relay and then the fuel pump relay (sometimes the two are on the same board in the same relay unit). Really inspect these thoroughly and check the solder joints, sometimes you can get an annular crack running around a pin and it will not break the circuit until vibration or high temperature causes the crack to open briefly. When you switch the car on these relays should give a healthy click. Most electrical problems can be found with a wiggle or a tap; wiggle the wires, that is, and tap the device they connect to. A short in the MAF (air density unit) should not necessarily cause the engine to die but maybe to change its idling characteristics. Unplug it whilst the engine is running to see its effect, in fact most devices may be unplugged to check their effect without doing any long term harm. Remove any foam that could interfere with its operation. Spray clean it with electrical spray cleaner (zero residue spray) but do not touch! Do not use carb. cleaner spray as it is too aggressive. 1) Check all the electrical things the ECU takes signals from in order to run the engine: throttle position sensor, idle speed control, Intake air temperature, manifold absolute pressure, engine temperature sensor. crank position sensor, cam position sensor 2) Check electrics, coil (bad to diagnose if intermittent) low tension, high tension distribution, plug leads and plugs, hall effect sensor. 3) Check air: check that all vacuum pipes making any kind of connection with the inlet manifold are air tight with no cracks or loose joints. If you have evaporation emission control make sure that the purge and vent valves close and open when they should. If you have Exhaust gas recirculation check that the valve opens and closes and that all feed ports to it are free and clear of carbon build up. 4) Now check fuel system: pre-pump, main pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, injectors
Posted on Jun 29, 2010
Testimonial: "Most of what you wrote has been done I assumed it also to be electrical fuel pump relay new and checked again and my technician has checked the various other electrical items he also tells me that nex time if it happens again i should unplug the MAF (air density unit) to see waht happens. On the other hand he has tesed the device and is passed the test without problems but it is good to know that a short circuit in teh MAF cannot cause symptomes i have other suggestions are welcome jeroen"
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