Question about 2006 Jeep Commander
Already changed resister and checked the fuses the blower still doesnt work
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Per Chilton Auto repair manual:
Removal & Installation
WARNING Support the brake caliper with mechanics wire. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.
Posted on May 17, 2009
SOURCE: Blower motor 95 jeep Cherokee
I suffered a similar failure on my little Rover. I think you will find out the resistor on the blower has had it. It is probably similar in theory. The resistor block contains several resistors. As you alter the blower speed, different resistors are used. One of yours has obviously failed. You need to replace the resistor block, which may be located at the back of the engine bay, on the passenger side, under the wiper module. Or you can remove the resistor block and replace the failed resistor - a competent auto-electrician can do this, or advise you how to.
Posted on Jun 30, 2009
next to the fan motor there should be a connector that has three or four wires that attached to the blower resistor. it should have two screws holding it to heater case, just pull it out and replace.
Posted on Feb 13, 2010
Testimonial: "This info was very helpful but need a little more info of where the fan motor is located. I will post another question to find that info."
Yes I would go with the switch, BUT, does it have a resistor bank? That is, how does it reduce the speed? Many systems use resistors to lower the speed. Burnt or bad connections can cause this as well.
You can test the blower motor by connecting direct power from a source like the cigarette lighter if you are handy.
Most of the time the lower speeds konk out but the high speed continues to work this is the resistor bank that goes out.
Posted on Mar 25, 2010
Check the relevant fuses with a test-light or VOM, don't just "eyeball" them as they often break at the very end. Then check the heater/A/C relays on the electrical panel. The heat/cool is controlled by a stepper motor which opens and closes the air "mixing box", but it won't work with a bad relay. If all of those check-out, you need a OBDII code reader to check the "engine" computer, as it controls the electrical modules. Also check the fusable links going to the electrical panel, and the cable from the battery to the panel. The cable may be corroded in-two and you'll never see it, so no juice to the panel, no juice to the heat/AC system. (I had a Dakota do that.) PS: Double check the grounds that they aren't corroded. Learned about that from a BSA Gold Star production racer.....
Posted on Mar 27, 2010
Testimonial: "Many thanks, Walker. Tt was the fuse in the kick panel. Looked ok, but NO continuity. I used the 10A spare and everything worked. Thanks!"
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