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check your connections at the battery,clean any corrosion and tighten.(baking soda and warm water works.wear gloves and safety glasses) if still clicks when trying to start,it probably your solenoid on your starter. check connections there or while someone trys to start it tap side of starter with a pc of wood or small mallet.
You need to check your engine wiring harness. 84 is part of the crumbling, corroding wiring insulation years. If your harness has not been replaced, you may have to really scrounge around to find one of the "new" versions that has okay insulation on the wiring.
It's possible that it's the fuel pump relay, bad computers or a host of other causes. The first thing I would do is to check fuses #'s 4 and 6. Rotate them in the holder as sometimes they get corrosion on them that hinders good contact.
You can put in a jumper wire from 4 to 6 and that should turn the pumps on and you can then start the car if the relay was the problem. Don't drive around like this as the pump will be on all of the time and it's not safe to have them in this state in case of an accident.
It sounds as if the car needs an overhaul, I think the motor got damaged - the gasket blew, then the pistons seized..... What happens when you put water in the radiator, does it "go missing"? Does the engine oil look milky?
In my 86 volvo this is where a relay was under the glove box area i believe it was the fuel pump relay. In my vehicle i washed the car and found it did not start afterwards after many hours of troubleshooting i found this relay was full of water causing my problem, they hang it upside down so water can enter easily, i took mine apart and cleaned the contacts with sandpaper, worked fine afterwards.
Had the exact same problem with my 240 wagon. There is a temperature sensor up near the manifold on the drivers side of the engine. This is not the temp sensor that feeds the dash gauge, but one that tells the engine control module whether you are starting hot or cold. Mine was cracked, so the engine computer would get a cold start signal even after the engine ran warm, and would flood. This can be a difficult problem to diagnose and an expensive one when mechanics start swapping parts.
You cannot see this sensor, but you can feel it (when the block is cold, please) right under the exhaust manifiold. A replacement is about $80 plus labor. Even my very experienced Volvo mechanic overlooked it. But the car would start and run fine, then leave me stuck when I tried to restart it. After calling AAA for a tow, the temp sensor would reset, then the car would start normally.
Cheers. The 240 is a great car - I ran mine up to 235,000 miles; now I have a 740 with the same engine.
If you can get it running again, get it to an electrical shop where they can test the charging system. If the alternator is still bad, it will continue draining the battery. If it won't run, pull the alternator and take it to a shop that can test it.