Front passenger side differential stub shaft will not come out of 2003 dodge ram
Stub shaft will not come out even with the tool. I think we are going to have to use a 4 foot bar and remove the drivers side shaft insert the bar to the inside end of the passenger side shaft and drive it out from the drivers side.
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Lift and support front end on suitable jack stands preferably on frame. Remove right front cv axle, stub shaft, and seal. You will need to pull the right front brake caliper assembly loose and place to the side. Then remove bolts from shock and upper control arm and hub nut to do this. Next, remove axle lock actuator on passenger side of front axle. Place a drain pan underneath front diff cover and remove cover and drain axle. In the center of differential there will be an 8 mm head bolt holding spider gear cross-shaft. Remove bolt and cross-shaft only! Push inner axle in until clip clears inside of passenger spider gear. Set clip aside and push/pull axle shaft straight out to passenger side.
Insert a steel rod into the brake rotor to prevent the rotor from turning and loosen the axle wheel hub nut. Discard the nut.
Remove the ball joint-to-front wheel knuckle retaining nut. Drive the bolt out of the front wheel knuckle using a punch and hammer.
Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor and position it out of the way.
Separate the ball joint from the front wheel knuckle using a prybar. Position the end of the prybar outside of the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing.
Use care to prevent damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint boot.
Remove the stabilizer bar link at the front stabilizer bar.
Make sure the CV-joint puller does not contact the transaxle shaft speed sensor. Damage to the sensor will result.
Install a CV-Joint Puller (T86P-3514-A1) or equivalent between the inboard CV-joint and the transaxle case.
Install a CV-Joint Extension (T86P-3514-A2) or equivalent into the puller and hand-tighten.
Using an impact slide hammer, remove the driveshaft from the transaxle.
Do not allow the front wheel driveshaft and joint to hang unsupported. Damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint may result. Do not wrap wire around the front wheel driveshaft joint boot. Damage to the boot may result.
Support the end of the driveshaft and joint assembly by suspending it from the chassis using a length of wire.
Never use a hammer to separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub. Damage to the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint threads and internal components may result.
Separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub using a Front Hub Remover/Replacer (T81P-1104-C) or equivalent. Make sure the hub remover adapter is fully threaded onto the hub stud.
Do not move the vehicle without the outboard CV-joint properly installed, as damage to the bearing may occur.
Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint assembly from the vehicle.
To install: Do not reuse the retainer circlip. A new circlip must be installed each time the inboard CV-joint stub shaft is installed into the transaxle differential.
Install a new retainer circlip on the inboard CV-joint stub shaft by starting one end in the groove and working the retainer circlip over the inboard shaft housing end and into the groove. This will avoid overexpanding the circlip.
A non-metallic mallet may be used to aid in seating the retainer circlip into the differential side gear groove. If a mallet is necessary, tap only on the outboard CV-joint stub shaft.
Carefully align the splines of the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing with the splines in the differential. Exerting some force, push the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing into the differential until the retainer circlip is felt to seat in the differential side gear. Use care to prevent damage to the inboard CV-joint stub shaft and transaxle seal.
Carefully align the splines of the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint with the splines in the wheel hub, and push the shaft into the wheel hub as far as possible.
Temporarily fasten the front disc brake rotor to the wheel hub with washers and two lug nuts. Insert a steel rod into the front disc brake rotor and rotate clockwise to contact the front wheel knuckle, to prevent the front disc brake rotor from turning during front wheel driveshaft and joint installation.
A new front axle wheel hub retaining nut must be installed.
Manually thread the front axle wheel hub retaining nut onto the outboard CV-joint stub shaft housing as far as possible.
A new bolt and nut must be used to connect the front suspension arm to the knuckle.
Connect the front suspension lower arm to the front wheel knuckle. Tighten the nut and bolt to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-74 Nm).
Install the front brake anti-lock sensor.
Connect the front stabilizer bar link and tighten to 35-45 ft. lbs. (47-65 Nm).
Do not use power or impact tools to tighten the hub nut.
Tighten the front axle wheel hub retaining nut to 157-212 ft. lbs. (213-287 Nm).
Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
Using the recommended type of fluid, fill the transaxle to the proper level.
Sometimes even with all of the clips off you have to use an axle puller to "knock" it out. The bearing is in the housing pretty tight. One of the national autoparts staore that starts with letter A has a nice rental/loaner program for that.
could have been lose lugs
or ABS sencer
or something cought in tire area back of rim or even the wheel well splash gard lose
stock tires will not have this issue but over sized ones might
just some areas to check on
The wheels have to be removed, along with the brake calipers. There are four bolts that hold the unit hub bearing onto the front knuckles. The hubs have a very tight tolerance area that fits into the knuckle. Sometimes the hub siezes into the knuckle and this is where the labor and parts can pile up. What makes this even more difficult is that the brake rotor can only be removed after the hub is knocked out of the knuckle, so it all has to come out as an assembley.
There is a nut in the middle of the hub. That nut is on the end of the axle stub, which passes through the hub bearing. If they make good time getting the hub and all out, they can still get stuck trying to get the stub shaft out of the hub. And it will have to come out to get the U joint out. Replacing the U joints should be straight forward.
Yes, many components, such as the front stub shafts, the front wheel hubs, certain steering linkages etc. must be removed. Then you've got to open the differential cover and use a special "spreader" tool to actually remove the differential. This takes quite a bit of experience, Good luck, Dana
There's not really a best way. If the axle half shafts bolt to the housing just drop it right out. If not you'll have to remove both half shafts from the wheel hub. Disconnect the drive shaft, and drop it out.
That works fine on a relatively new vehicle but one that has run in salt etc you'll save a lot of time if you remove the steering knuckle completey by separating lower ball joint and outer tie rod end ball joint and bring the whole steering knuckle to a bench to separate the hub/bearing. Soak everything with penetrant, loosen the bolts a few turns and try hitting right on the bolt heads. I also made a very sharp wedge from a chisel and rammed it hard on the other side to seoarate the hub. It will finally come apart then you'll see all the **** that was binding it due to an alumininum knuckle re-acting with a steel hub. Clean the hole and grease everything and fit new bearings
i just did a 2002 2500 4x4 with a dana straight axle and had no problem getting on the bolts with a 9/16 12 point socket on a 6 inch extension. If you do not use an extension the head of the ratchet will hit the yoke of the axle shaft.