Question about 1995 Ford F250

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95 ford f-250 4.9 engine

Recently replace bad parts that caused check engine light to come on. water temp gauge become bad. replaced sender,pig tail thermostat 3 times. no change on gauge. replaced with numeric elec gauge. temp reads about 195 normal running. problem check engine light return on. is new gauge the cause?

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  • Anonymous Mar 27, 2014

    how do you change it

  • Anonymous Mar 27, 2014

    temp gauge runs above normal at highway speeds, ac op. Gauge returns to normal if I turn off ac


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No you need to get service key reset ok m8

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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My temp gauge quit working and i replaced sender and gauge. it's got to be a short. but where to start maybe someone else has had the same problem

95 yj (quite means, hot , low or mid?,) just a clue.?
4.0L? all fuses good,?
the FSM covers this , here is the outline (all cars this era)

1: IR pyro gun pointed to thermotat housing near 180f 170f min.
2: ok engine really IS hot. then we ground the gauge feed, meter,
pegs, meter good , I use a light bulb from ground to guage to
limit current (im nice to my meters)
3: i then find my temp sender, the one with 1 pin.
pull the connector with a hot engine
this is a passive NTC thermistor and is not the ECT with 2 pins.
its just for the gauge.
the 91 sender is different from a 95 so dont mix years,!!
92-95 are matched.

hot engine, 180F or more...
pull off the single wire. to the sender.
connect DMM set to OHMS (yes, omega symbol i s that)
select 200 or 2000 range, id use 2000, , if an auto ranging meter
let it range and read the LCD markers, it tells you what range it landed red to pin, the black to engine block. (rear top sender on 4.0L)

its not the sender bad, all in 5min work. no guessing at all

so if its good, the wires are bad. twinxed them.

the only hard part is finding good ohms charts that match your year.
all else is caveman simple 1 wire, gauge and sender.

i see many folks online mixing wrong clusters in jeeps
and wondering why the right sender dont work.
so did you cluster temp ever work right, this year, this decade?
ohms law , never lies, but wrong parts do.... every time.

the sender is NTC, higher ohms cold, , lower hot !

i could not FIND the sender spec. at all.
1million hits for ETC, zero for gauge.

my guess is sender will read high ohms cold , 1000 or more. more cold more ohms... (resistance)
then drop in ohms as engine warms might drop to as low a 80 ohms.
but will drop , gauge wire (it only has 1) disconnected.

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You troubleshoot as follows :
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  3. Connect a 73 ohm resistor between gauge lead and ground. The centerline of pointer should fall within the band around the C mark.
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