Question about 1996 Nissan Maxima

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Transmission is roaring and rattling

I was driving it today on my way to work when it made a loud popping sound and the transmission started 'roaring' and rattling. i checked the transmission fluid and it was really low though when i checked it the yesterday it was fine. its been driving fine, no issues or anything.

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  • mcrb92
    mcrb92 Oct 28, 2012

    it has 162100 miles on it, gxe model

  • mcrb92
    mcrb92 Oct 28, 2012

    it starts fine, motor runs fine. it wont hold in park, have to put the e brake on to keep it still



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One thing you obviously have a leak somewhere for your fluid to be gone in a days span and it would have to be a very severe leak for that to happen. Second it sounds like your parking pin may have sheered off and now it could be rattlingf around inside your trans. Which would be a very bad problem cuz it could lodge itself in your gears and shred everything while your driving down the road. Lastly and in my opinion, the worst possibility would be that you have sheered gears and the pieces are clancking around in there. Regardless of which one it is you should avoid driving it until you can get it repaired. If its a manual trans and you are mechanically inclined you could service the trans yourself automatic trans you will need to purchase a new or rebuilt unit, most likely. Hope I could help.

Posted on Oct 28, 2012


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: i was told my nissan versa had no trans fluid in it

try having the transmission flushed to make sure all the wrong fluid is out and it should be fine

Posted on Apr 11, 2009

  • 677 Answers

SOURCE: Vehicle ran fine yesterday. Today it wouldn't

This is going to sound strange but, have someone get over to where your starter is. While you try and start it have them tap on it slightly with a small hammer.
I t could be the brushes are hanging up.
Otherwise, I would pull the starter and have an auto center test it.
Please let me know what you find.

Posted on Feb 07, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks...I try what you suggested. At least you narrowed it down quite a bit."

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: transmission

Nissan Sentra's were notorious for this in the early to mid 90's. I'll paste my walk-through of fixing the problem for you. Pay particular attention when replacing the governor gear, as it's plastic from the factory. I would strongly suggest getting the metal one that was produced after-market. The plastic gears chip and break within 100,000 miles, whereas the metal ones have unanimously been known to out-last the car. If you care to do the work yourself, read on:

Your governor gear is either stripped or destroyed. It's extremely easy as far as labor, beginner skill level (if you have a knowledgeable person or book/article to reference) but finding the part is a headache. Get the part before you do anything else. It's a small plastic gear (stock) and I've heard that there's a brass one available, but haven't found it yet. From the dealership, the gear alone is about $40. The governor assembly is about $200. There's 99% chance you only need the gear. I'll give you a basic walk-through of how to check, but I would strongly advise not to proceed until you have at least the gear in-hand. Also, make sure the gear is correct.

The 4-speed transmission has a 16 spline gear that is about an inch and a half long, whereas the 3-speed transmission has a 19 spline gear that is about 2.5 inches long. They are NOT interchangeable.

First, get everything out of the way. Disconnect and remove your battery. There is a small fusebox bolted to the battery tray. Remove the two nuts holding this on, and separate it from the battery tray, letting it hang behind the radiator. Remove the battery tray. The air box is going to have to come out as well, so you have room to see and work. Easiest way to do this is to remove all of the hoses as far from the airbox as possible, leaving them attached to the airbox so it all comes out as one piece. There's a small vacuum line just out-of-sight, that plugs into the silencer, feel around on the firewall side, and simply unplug it. Once all of this is safely out of the way, it's time to get down to business.

In your newly-cleared work area, on the top of the transmission closer to the firewall than to you, you'll see what looks like either a black plastic, or silver (but dirty) metal, 'cap'. There is a snap-ring set just inside the ridge around the top of this, with a seal ring under it. Pry this snap-ring out carefully, unless you intend to replace it. With that out of the way, the seal ring will come right up. Using a large vice grip, or a large pair of water pump pliers, grip the cap and work it out. There's an o-ring around the bottom of this, so it make take a little back-and-forth to get it all the way out. Once you have gotten that off, there is what looks like a complex metal block underneath. This is your governor assembly, and it's actually about 10 inches long. To reiterate, this entire assembly should be around $200 from a dealership. You should be able to pull this outwith minimal effort, and the bottom is hardened plastic, so be as gentle as possible. Once removed, inspect the plastic gear on the bottom. If it's chewed up but otherwise intact, replace it and you're okay. If it's shattered and/or obviously missing pieces (which has been the case in several of the rebuilds I've done), you'll have to drain at least a quart of fluid to see into the bottom of the hole where the governor sits, and make sure there are no pieces floating around in there. I had to use a dentist's pick to get the pieces out. If you are going to replace the entire governor assembly, remove the old one and skip the next paragraph.

If you want to save a nice chunk of money, and just replace the gear:
Put the governor in a vice, and as gently as possible, hammer the holding pin out of the gear and governor shaft. Once removed, the old gear will slide right off. Slide the new gear on, put the pin in place, and you're good to go.

Slide the new (or newly rebuilt) governor gear assembly back into the transmission, making sure it seats flush. Replace the cap you removed, the seal ring, then the snap-ring. Put the airbox back in, ensuring all of the hoses and clamps are back in place - especially that pesky one hidden behind the silencer box. Replace your battery tray, the fusebox thereto attached, and your battery and hold-down. Replace any transmission fluid you had to drain, start the car and let it run for 5-10 minutes to warm up the fluid. With your foot on the brake, manually shift it through all the gears to ensure the fluid gets into all of those little spaces. Put it back in park, turn the car off, check the fluid again, and add as needed.

Posted on Dec 21, 2010

  • 134 Answers

SOURCE: i was backing out of

Sounds like one of the CV axles broke and it is trying to spin inside the joint. Only fix for that is to buy a new CV axle. Most auto parts stores should carry them. The part is about $50-80 and should take about 30mins-1hr for most people with the proper tools.

Posted on Jun 07, 2011

  • 21873 Answers

SOURCE: my 95 maxima wants to stalls when when I accelerate pass 30 mph, it makes a loud roaring sound like it has a vacuum leak or something.

You may be hearing the air intake - could be a leak in the intake hose to the air filter.
Is the check engine light on ?

Posted on Aug 25, 2012

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