As seen on the video, the part which attaches to garage door stops its travel along the rail and returns to home base, almost like it does if there's an obstruction in the door path during normal oper

REMOVAL

1. Remove the watershield. (Refer to 23 - BODY/DOOR - FRONT/WATERSHIELD - REMOVAL)

2. Remove door glass retaining clips and secure the window in the up position using masking tape or equivalent(FRONT DOOR GLASS CLIPS).

3. Disconnect wire connector from power window motor, if equipped.

4. Loosen screws attaching front and rear window guide rails to inner door panel (FRONT DOOR MANUAL WINDOW REGULATOR - TYPICAL).

5. Remove screw heads on guide rails from key hole slots in inner door panel.

6. Loosen screws attaching regulator to inner door panel.

7. Remove regulator from inner door panel.

8. Extract rear guide rail through inner door panel rear access hole (FRONT DOOR POWER WINDOW - TYPICAL).

9. Extract front guide rail through front access hole.

INSTALLATION

1. Insert front guide rail through front access hole.

2. Insert rear guide rail through rear access hole.

3. Place window regulator in position on inner door panel.

4. Place screw heads on guide rails in position through key hole slots in inner door panel.

5. Tighten screws to attach front and rear guide rails to inner door panel.

6. Connect wire connector into power window motor, if equipped.

7. Install door glass.

8. Verify door glass alignment and operation.

9. Install sound shield and door trim panel

DIAGRAMS CAN BE FOUND ON JUSTANSWER,COM

Things You'll Need

• Remote garage door opener

Suggest Edits

1. • 1

     Turn your Chrysler vehicle off and press and hold the two outside buttons on your onboard opener system. Release the buttons once the red indicator light begins flashing. This will erase any previous codes programmed to your system.
     

   • 2

     Hold your garage door opener remote two inches away from the onboard system.
     

   • 3

     Press and hold the button you wish to program on your onboard system and the open button on your remote simultaneously. Release the buttons once the indicator light on the onboard system begins flashing.
     

   • 4

     Press the training button on your Chrysler's system until the light glows solid. If it does not glow solid, continue to the following steps.
     

   • 5

     Press the "learn" button on your garage door remote, located near the antenna wire on the back or side of the system, and return to your vehicle.
     

   • 6

     Press the training button on your on board system, hold it for two seconds and release. Repeat the press/hold/release step two more times and your remote will be programmed and ready for use.
     

Read more: Instructions for a Chrysler Garage Door Opener ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_6201533_instructions-chrysler-garage-door-opener.html#ixzz1gQrTzTSH

Fuel Pressure Regulator REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5.7L (VIN 8) Engine NOTE: The pressure regulator and base are factory adjusted and serviced as a complete assembly only. Do not try to remove the regulator cover. 1985-88 VEHICLES

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
3. Remove the fuel rail from the vehicle, as outlined earlier in this section.
4. Remove the front crossover tube retaining attaching screw and crossover tube retainer from the right hand rail side.
5. Unfasten the retainer-to-base screw assembly and rear crossover tube retaining from the pressure regulator and base assembly.
6. Separate the left hand fuel rail and plug assembly from the right hand fuel rail and plug assembly.
7. Remove the bracket-to-rail attaching screw, 2 bracket-to-base screws and the regulator and base bracket.
8. Unfasten the screw that attaches the fuel outlet tube to the right hand rail.
9. Remove the base-to-right hand rail assembly. Fig. 1: Typical fuel pressure regulator assembly - 5.7L (VIN 8) engine
   
   
10. Twist the regulator and base assembly to the remove it from the fuel outlet tube.
11. Unplug the base-to-rail connector.
12. Remove and discard the O-ring seals from the following components, noting the location and sizes of the O-rings to ensure proper placement during installation:
    • Connector
    • Fuel outlet tube
    • Rear crossover tube
    • Front crossover tube
13. Check the O-rings and sealing surfaces for damage that may prevent proper sealing.
14. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the retaining screws to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
15. Connect the negative battery cable, then turn the ignition to the ON position and check for fuel leaks.

On a taurus the fuel pressure regulator is located on the return side of the fuel rail on the top of the engine. Its round, attached to the fuel rail and operated by vacuum.

Not really expensive just messy to repair. Return lines (low pressure) are much more common and they travel along the frame rail on the right side of the subframe from the power steering rack to the cooler line in front of the radiator. The high pressure line starts at the pump and travels over the top of the motor to the back side (it's a thick line with a big banjo bolt at the pump). They go too but less frequently.

If it's the return line and not the pressure line you can cut it and put some rubber hose from the parts store over the cut part with a couple clamps and that'll hold you for quite a while till you can get the line and get it installed.

The return line, done correctly, can be a bit of a bear on the ground but it's fairly quick in the air on a lift at a garage. The pressure line isn't too bad and can be undertaken by the home mechanic.

My 1996 Honda had the same thing on the driver side door.

It was caused by a deteriorated rubber stop inside the door lock actuator module. The module is buried down in the lower outside corner of the door. Inside the module there is a track on which two electrical contacts slide along with the actuator, and a small rubber bumper stop. When this stop deteriorates, the contacts over travel and run off the track. Evidently this confuses the actuator controller into oscillation. The control module limits the time this occurs, so the buzz stops after a short while. There is somewhat of a spring return action to the mechanism, so the contacts return to the track, making things good again.

The dealer couldn't get just the rubber part, so $130+ for the whole module. My make-shift o-ring replacement only lasted a few months.

Definitely a chore to get the module out and back in.

HTH

That is a broken or rusted fuel line. It only leaks when the fuel pump is running.

There is probably a strainer type filter in tank, like every other unit I've seen, but I can't believe you don't have one between tank & engine. Take a look along the frame rails under the truck. If you follow the path of the fuel lines from the tank, my guess is you'll find one attached to frame. Most of the cars I've worked on lately are usually just ahead of the passenger side rear wheel, bolted to frame.

The railing along where the glass slides was binding try cleaning it and lubricate with a light oil

http://www.homelink.com/
This video is great.  My problem was that the light didn't go to fast blinking based on the directions for my vehicle.  After watching the video, I got the idea to move closer and it worked like a charm!