Question about 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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91 suburban drum brakes drag

Lost rear wheel cylinder and system was dry replaced wheel cylinders and master cylinder but rear brakes drag like parking prake on

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  • 241 Answers

Check brake pad. it must drum fitted.

Posted on Oct 28, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

yotaguy
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SOURCE: pulsation in brake pedal and rear end hops during braking

What happens is if you have a bad front wheel bearing when you brake that wheel will turn in or out,when this happens it throws the four wheel alignment out and since this is a solid rear axle,it's forcing it to flex on the suspension,wich could cause the rear tires to bite on the outside edge of one tire and the inside edge of the other,thats one possible the other would be that the rear brakes are are not slowing the wheels evenly causing the same issue.I saw this problem with a bad front wheel bearing on a Nissan Pathfinder but not as pronouced due to the independent rear suspension. Check the front wheel bearings,which of course will mean getting the calipers off the rotors,and then check for any movement in the rotor,if there is check the hub nut,if it's loose tighten it and check for play in the rotor if there is still play that's going to be caused by a bad bearing.You can check the braking in the rear with a simple spring scale(like the ones used for fishing),with the wheels removed have someone apply enough pedal pressure to just engage the brakes but still allow movement attach the scale hook to a wheel stud and pull until it starts to move and note how many pounds of pressure it takes to move the hub.If it's uneven chech your adjusters and even them if needed and then retest,if still uneven you'll need to bleed them again.As far as the dark black substance in the fluid I would say you may gotten a contaminent in the fluid.Brake fluid gets kind of a rusty reddish residue when it breaks down.If I missed anything or you need clarification don't hesitate to ask I'm home all day.Hope this helps solve your problem.

Posted on May 05, 2009

  • 14036 Answers

SOURCE: soft brake pedal after replacing shoes,drums,wheel

YOU STILL HAVE AIR IN BRAKE SYSTEM REBLEED BRAKE SYSTEM.

Posted on Nov 15, 2009

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89 ford mustang 5.0 i just finished bleeding my brakes and when i brake the rear wheels are not holding but just a few seconds then the pedal starts to ease down and rear wheels start turning . igot new...


If the shoes are adjusted to where the drum drags on the shoes while turning the drum,then the master cylinder is the most likely cause,some times the master will by-pass and cause this,and ,or will leak fluid out the rear of the master into the booster.

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If you needed to add a substantial amount of fluid, good chance that something is leaking. You will not regain full pedal 'till that's repaired. Leak could be from a line, caliper or wheel cylinder. The master cylinder can also leak from the rear (check for a wet spot where it's bolted on)
If you did not need to add much, it's also possible that the master is internally bypassing and needs to be replaced.
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Install new brake pads and rotors all 4 wheels. Replaced front 2 calipers. Bled brakes. New clean fluid coming out. pedal is still soft and goes to floor. 200 Seebring.


Are you losing any Brake Fluid? Is it visible anywhere at the four wheels? Is it visible anywhere else?
The Master Cylinder may be defective. When you bled the Brakes did you maintain proper Brake Fluid Level in the Master Cylinder? If you didn't: and air entered into the Master Cylinder there maybe air within in the system in the Master Cylinder. You can bleed the Master Cylinder by removing the brake lines, adding more fluid, pumping the brakes, bleeding the air out of the system.
Are you losing Brake Fluid and can't find a noticeable leak? Then there is a good posibility that the rear seal in the Master Cylinder is leaking and the Fluid is going into the Brake Booster - which is the large wheel shaped drum located on the fire wall. In this case both the Brake Booster and the Master Cylinder will have to be removed and replaced. The Booster contains seals that Brake Fluid is very caustic to and will ruin these seals- causing future failures.
If no Brake Fluid is lost, no leak found: Check the Brake Booster Vacuum Advance. This should be connected to the outside of the Booster, attached to a hose, with the hose going to the engine. Check to see if this is working properly. Replace if needed.

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Just because there isn't an external leak in the brake system doesn't mean there isn't an internal leak in the master cylinder. A mushy pedal is usually an internal leak in the master cylinder or leaking wheel cylinders in the rear brake drums. Check the rear brake wheel cylinders for fluid leaks, if there are none or you do not have rear drum brakes, your best bet is the master cylinder :)

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