Question about 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Starts up and shuts down after 2 seconds
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
ok it has nothing to do with the gear box
no ower to your injectors check engine fuse
if and wen u took the gear box out did take the positive lead off?
if u did unplug the computer or try the reset so the computer can no the car is back togeather
Posted on Jul 19, 2008
Fuse # 20, located in the Junction Block (interior, drivers side). This is a ten amp fuse.
Read the information at the above site. The TSB (technical service bulletin) may be of interest to you.
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
You need to remove all the skrews from the door. Normaly there is one in the handle of the door, one behind the in door lach handel and one under the bump out for the arm rest on the door. Than you need to take a flat head skrew driver slowly priying the panel off. There are plastic clips on the backside of the panel it is ok if you brake a few.
Posted on May 01, 2009
There are two parts to it, a voltage resistor, and the EL panel itself.
You need to remove the console first. There are 2 screws under the front rubber pad, two under the cup holder, two in the bin. Remove those six first, take the storage bin out, then slide the rear cupholder out, remove the two screws under the cup holder, and one in front of it.
There are a total of 6 flat screws, and 3 self tapping screws you have removed.
Put the parking brake on, shift the tranny to N, and the transfer case to the middle position if equipped.
Remove the entire console. Slide the shifter beezel as far up vertically as you can. There are 4 clips you ned to remove to do it.
You will see a blue and black wire running into the back. Follow those wires to the resistor. You will see a transparent EL panel attatched to the resistor by two clips.
Usually, one or both of these clips has come loose, causing the light to work intermittantly. Clip them back on, and turn on the headlights to confirm that the light works correctly now.
Re-install everything in the opposite order.
Posted on Oct 11, 2009
First, if the noise is from the upper part of the engine and is more of a tapping than a knock, likely you have a problem in the valvetrain, most often a bad lifter or worn rocker arm. If the noise is low, deep inside, the noise is from a bearing. This is generally accompanied by lower than normal oil pressure. Regardless of the underlying cause, correcting the cause will not stop the knock. To do that correctly, the engine needs to be removed and all crankshaft bearings and the crankshaft itself need to be replaced (crank can sometimes be "undercut" and thicker bearing shells can be used depending upon the amount of wear.) If caught very early, sometimes only one bearing can be replaced in-car, but in 99% of all cases I have ever seen, most will fail again, sometimes more severely if done this way.
Posted on Dec 10, 2009
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