85 Nissan Pickup Alternator bolts missing-How do I replace them
a friend helped fix my headgasket, but now I am trying to put the alternator back on and am looking for the right bolts. I need to know bolt dimensions. This is for a 1985 Nissan Pickup Z24, 2.4 L engine, KingCab. I re-attached the brace that goes above the alternator that has the slot in it to tighten the tension, but I only have 2 of the 3 bolts holding it in. The third isn't with it and I don't know its dimensions. The bolt I am missing is the one closest to the alternator. I also need the dimensions of the bolt that goes in that slot and holds the alternator in position. Does it have a nut? The last bolt dimension I need to know is for the bolt that is on the bottom of the alternator. Does it have a nut also? If I can't find these anywhere, where can I get substitutes? Can they be gotten at the hardware store or do they have to be ordered from Nissan for a fortune? If you can help me, it sure would make my day. Thanks, Rich
Re: 85 Nissan Pickup Alternator bolts missing-How do I...
I have Nissan Maxima 2000 .I was hard to remove the back bolt
of alternator, I see the mount nut on the front of it. The tension of
the pulley I loose to remove the belt out. How did I do totake the bolt out
Re: 85 Nissan Pickup Alternator bolts missing-How do I...
Hi david from perth here, im a mech fitter by trade, i dont know the actual dimensions for the bolt, but for starters it will be metric, not imperial, but it shouldnt be too hard to use a piece of wire perhaps to poke in and then see how long the bolt needs to be, the only thing is it may have some dumb flats or odd shape head on it, if u have an angle grinder u should be able to get it to fit . : -) hope this gives ya some encouragement matey , all the best
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Your bolt that you tighten to hold alternator is stripped,to fix is to get another bolt but longer with lock washer and nut to tighten down,that's what I use on my 85 nissan,they are so easy to over tighten and strip,it's common,lol.You can take bolt to Autozone and they will have what you need.It's easier to have someone help when putting on belt to get good tension,but don't over tighten cause the water pump uses the belt too.will be it and it will leak or bearing will go bad.
You can buy a Clymers or Chilton manual with the torque specs. and the tightening order. Generaly the bolts are tightened from the center outwards in two steps. First pass you snug all the bolts down, working from the middle bolts outward to the front and rear alternating between left and right side bolts.
#1 loosen the Alternator drive Belt adjusting bolt, and remove the belt. Install new belt,tighten the adjusting bolt to give you the propper belt tention. At the longest span between two polleys at the midway point press down with your thumb and you should not be able to move the belt more than 1/4 of an inch. Good Luck and have a good XMASS.
FOR THE 3.0L ENGINE IF YOU REPLACE AC BELT LOOSEN TOP IDLER PULLEY CENTER BOLT. IF YOU REPLACING ALTERNATOR AND WATER PUMP BELT LOOSEN ALTERNATOR ADJUSTMENT BOLT AND PIVOT BOLT.IF REPLACING POWER STEERING PUMP BELT LOOSEN POWER STEERING PUMP ADJUSTMENT BOLT AND MOUNTING BOLTS.****** FOR THE 2.4L ENGINE TO REMOVE POWER STEERING BELT LOOSEN TOP IDLER PULLEY.FOR ALTERNATOR AND WATER PUMP BELT LOOSEN ALTERNATOR ADJUSTER BOLT, PIVOT AND MOUNTING BOLTS.FOR AC COMPRESSOR LOOSEN LOWER IDLER PULLEY.
1. Remove the plastic air intake system which includes the air filter, 1 vacuum hose, the tube that runs to the carb, the tube that runs off to the left. There are three bolts that hold the bottom of the air filter housing on. Most of this system is a snap together assembly. Just pull it apart.
2. The alternator will have two bolts on the front bottom. The left one is a double sided bolt and the right one is a pass through bolt with a nut on the back. Stick a wrench or a short socket wrench on the nut behind the alternator and remove the pass through bolt from the front. Then remove the double sided bolt from the left side.
3. This leaves the alternator loose and being held by the belt. remove the belt from the alternator and wiggle and jiggle the alternator out of the mounting area (very tight squeeze to get it out). You can put a larger size can of fruit or something in the place of the alternator to hold the belt in place so you can remember how it looks.
4. You will need to loosen the belt tensioner to put the belt on the new alternator. Remove the can of fruit if you chose to do that but be careful to not accidentally remove the belt from the 5 or 6 different places it passes through. Place the new alternator, put in the bolts and tighten. Loosen the tensioner and put the belt on. Tighten the tensioner and adjust as needed. Replace the entire air intake system by snapping it all back together and bolting it in one piece at a time.
There are two different torque specs for this engine depending on which bolts you are torquing. This engine uses three different length bolts, the two sets of longer bolts can be torqued to 70 foot pounds, the short set of bolts that go along the bottom of the head should be torqued to 65 foot pounds. Head surface and block surface should be clean, straight and the a new head gasket should be used.
An easy way to guide yourself in the proper sequence is to make a cheat sheet of sorts. Take the headgasket and piece of cardboard about the same size. Using the headgasket as a template, mark each of the bolt holes on the cardboard with a sharpee marker, pencil or pen. Also outline the headgasket and mark the top of your drawing. Now starting from the center bolt as number 1, move either to the right or left, up or down to the next bolt hole and mark that as number 2. Now move to the bolt hole diagonally across from number 2, past Number 1 and mark it as number 3. Continue this sequence of moving diagonally back and forth across the headgasket outline until all of the bolt holes are marked with a number. What you are trying to do is start at the center of the head tightening it down in steps of about 15 foot pounds moving out from the center.
I have built a lot of these engines over the years and they are very forgiving of the head torquing sequence. As long as you start at the center and move out left and right, up and down alternating back and forth, you will have no problems. As a final check once you are done, check the torque on each head bolt to make sure you have not missed one. This does not have to be done in any sequence and you will then be sure that you have it completed properly. Good luck.
This alternator has two mounting bolts, one on top (adjuster) and one at bottom (main bolt) You need to untight the top one but not completely, take the poly belt of. Than take the bottom bolt out and remove top one when holding the alternator. Put the new one in place but this time use the bottom bolt first, do not tight it completely, than put the belt on the pulley and use the top bolt. You will need to tight the bottom bolt, than pull the alternator with some bar but gentle to get the belt tight, hold it and than tight the top bolt.