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How to replace the cluch master cylinder in a 2008 ford Fiesta

The cluch push rod to the master cylinder has broken. It appears to be a non-servicable unit. What is the procedure to replace the clutch master cylinder? Where is the slave cylinder bleed nipple?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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moparownr
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SOURCE: im having difficulty in bleeding a cluch o a ford

clutch systems bleed just like brakes, if you have an external leak at the clutch master cylinder, then bleeding will be difficult, it should be replaced. I use a two person bleeding system, I fill the master, crack the bleeder screw open and have my 2nd push the clutch down and hold it, then I close the bleeder and tell my 2nd to release the pedal, repeat until no air is present.

Posted on Apr 08, 2009

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1 Answer

I have a 2006 saturn ion 2.2 manual.it wont go into gear.what's the problem?


don't take it to a mechanic
take it to an accredited brake and clutch specialist shop and have the jib done properly
if you know that you need to replace the clutch master cylinder then why you not had it done
as a point of good service it is best to replace both the master cylinder and slave cylinder if you want a trouble free job
find out what caused the push rod to break as that is an extremely rare fault --so rare that it never happens in normal operation

Aug 09, 2017 | Saturn Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Fiesta. How do I replace clutch master cylinder?


disconnect fluid line to slave cyl. disconnect cyl rod from pedal, unbolt cyl and remove install in reverse order, fill master and bleed at slave cyl

Oct 09, 2015 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Cluch has no pressure i need to know how to refill the trany


Try CHECKING AND refilling the master cylinder for the clutch on the firewall under the hood, it looks like a small brake master cylinder tank. Here is a picture of the Clutch Hydraulic Master cylinder. The plastic tank can be black as well. If the tank is full go under the truck on the driver side and check the clutch Slave cylinder to make sure the rod coming out of it is attached to the clutch release arm. Here is a picture of the slave cylinder.
SLAVE CYLINDER IS 1ST PICTURE, MASTER IS 2ND.







1_16_2012_8_16_56_pm.jpg1_16_2012_8_19_05_pm.jpg

Jan 16, 2012 | 1990 Ford F250

1 Answer

Install power brake booster on 1988 ford ranger


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION NOTE: Make sure that the booster rubber reaction disc is properly installed if the master cylinder push rod is removed or accidentally pulled out. A dislodged disc may cause excessive pedal travel and extreme operation sensitivity. The disc is black compared to the silver colored valve plunger that will be exposed after the push rod and front seal is removed. The booster unit is serviced as an assembly and must be replaced if the reaction disc cannot be properly installed and aligned, or if it cannot be located within the unit itself.

  1. Disconnect the stop lamp switch wiring to prevent running the battery down.
  2. Support the master cylinder from the underside with a prop.
  3. Remove the master cylinder-to-booster retaining nuts.
  4. Loosen the clamp that secures the manifold vacuum hose to the booster check valve, and remove the hose. Remove the booster check valve.
  5. Pull the master cylinder off the booster and leave it supported by the prop, far enough away to allow removal of the booster assembly.
  6. From inside the cab on vehicles equipped with push rod mounted stop lamp switch, remove the retaining pin and slide the stop lamp switch, push rod, spacers and bushing off the brake pedal arm.
  7. From the engine compartment remove the bolts that attach the booster to the dash panel. To install:
  8. Mount the booster assembly on the engine side of the dash panel by sliding the bracket mounting bolts and valve operating rod in through the holes in the dash panel. NOTE: Make certain that the booster push rod is positioned on the correct side of the master cylinder to install onto the push pin prior to tightening the booster assembly to the dash.
  9. From inside the cab, install the booster mounting bracket-to-dash panel retaining nuts.
  10. Position the master cylinder on the booster assembly, install the retaining nuts, and remove the prop from underneath the master cylinder.
  11. Install the booster check valve. Connect the manifold vacuum hose to the booster check valve and secure with the clamp.
  12. From inside the cab on vehicles equipped with push rod mounted stop lamp switch, install the bushing and position the switch on the end of the push rod. Then install the switch and rod on the pedal arm, along with spacers on each side, and secure with the retaining pin.
  13. Connect the stop lamp switch wiring.
  14. Start the engine and check brake operation.
Fig. 1: Check the booster pushrod adjustment using a gauge with the shown dimensions

tecnovative_78.gif
Fig. 2: Exploded view of the typical power brake booster tecnovative_79.gif Fig. 3: Booster vacuum hose connections - 2.3L & 2.9L

tecnovative_80.gif
Fig. 4: Booster vacuum hose connections for the 4.0L

tecnovative_81.gif

Feb 03, 2011 | 1988 Ford Ranger

1 Answer

I need good photos or instructions to change the brake light switch on a 1999 ford expedition


from autozone.com
f43af9d.gif Fig. 2 Brake pedal position switch removal- F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator; 1999-00 F-250SD, F-350, and F-Super Duty Models
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Disconnect the brake pedal position switch.
  3. Remove the self-locking pin.
  4. Remove the brake pedal position switch from the brake master cylinder push rod.
  5. Remove the brake master cylinder push rod spacer.
  6. Remove the brake master cylinder push rod bushing.
  7. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Sep 24, 2010 | 1999 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

There is a metal rod attached to the clutch pedal but came out of the sleeve it was in will this be a problem to fix


this metal rod is the cluch master cylinder push rod
its held into the master cylinder by a spring clip if you can get at the master cylinder from inside the car you could just clip the clip it back in to its cut out and the jobs done, but i gess you may not be able to reach it so you may need to take out the master cylinder and take the pin out the cluck pedal so you can remove the push rod and fit it back into the master cylinder that way,, you will need to blead the cluch after refitting the master cylinder

Dec 01, 2009 | 2000 Saturn SL

1 Answer

Cluch stuck to floor.


Have you tried bleeding the master cylinder first? There should be a bleeder valve down on your tranny close to where your master cylinder line hooks in. You need 2 people to do this properly or you can buy a special valve from an auto parts store and do it yourself. If any air has gotten into your lines, your clutch will go to the floor. Tranny fluid is cheaper than buying both slave and master cylinders. Plus, if you replace them, you'll have to bleed the system anyway.

May 21, 2009 | 1993 Ford Probe

1 Answer

Im having difficulty in bleeding a cluch o a ford


clutch systems bleed just like brakes, if you have an external leak at the clutch master cylinder, then bleeding will be difficult, it should be replaced. I use a two person bleeding system, I fill the master, crack the bleeder screw open and have my 2nd push the clutch down and hold it, then I close the bleeder and tell my 2nd to release the pedal, repeat until no air is present.

Apr 08, 2009 | Ford Club Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1992 Ford F250 4x4 7.3 Diesel


those trucks had problems with the fire wall breaking .have some one push the clutch pedle and watch the fire wall from under the hood were the clutch master cylinder bolts too if the fire wall moves u need to buy the repaire kit from ford.

Apr 01, 2009 | 1992 Ford F250

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