a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
QU40221 19 Spline Outer Axle Shaft for 1977 to 1991 Chevy, GMC Corporate GM 10 Bolt Front Axle is a genuine original equipment outer axle stub shaft for all GM 10 Bolt front axles in 1977 to 1991 Chevy Blazers, GMC Jimmys, and Suburbans, plus Chevy, GMC 4x4 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton Pickups. The splined end on these new axle shafts has three snap ring grooves in three places so they are compatible with all types of automatic and manual lockout hubs plus all full-time solid splined drive gears.
Also available while supplies last: QU40221U Used Outer Axle Shaft with 3 snap ring grooves and QU40660UUsed Inner Axle Shafts with 2 snap ring grooves (QU40660U is not compatible with automatic locking hubs)
Fairly simple process( but not always easy,Just warning you in advance) 1. Disconnect rubber brake line from top of axle.Plug appropriately to prevent fluid loss. 2. Disconnect e-brake cables. (beside the frame on driver's side) 3. Remove shocks ( or just diconnect at either end) 4. disconnect driveshaft at axle and leave in trans (if possible) to prevent fluid loss. 5 Axle can now be removed by either removing the bolts at each end of the springs or by removing the u-bolts attaching the axle to the springs
you need to remove the cover in the middle of the rear axle rotate the drive shaft until you see a bolt with a 5/16 head on it slide out the pin that the bolt held in remove the c clip that holds the axle in slide out the axle and replace the seal you should do both sides while its apart then put it back together and fill threw the plug on the front side that uses a 3/8 drive
Full Floating Axles
To remove the drums from full floating rear axles, use the Axle Shaft Removal & Installation procedure in Section 7. Full floating rear axles can readily be identified by the bearing housing protruding through the center of the wheel.
Raise and support the rear end on jack stands.
Remove the wheel.
Pull the drum from the brake assembly. If the brake drums have been scored from worn linings, the brake adjuster must be backed off so that the brake shoes will retract from the drum. The adjuster can be backed off by inserting a brake adjusting tool through the access hole provided. In some cases the access hole is provided in the brake drum. A metal cover plate is over the hole. This may be removed by using a hammer and chisel.
You may have to back off the automatic adjuster before you can pull the drum from the brake assembly
if you are leaking gear oil through the tire you need an axle shaft seal there is also a axle bearing there unless it is a full floating axle which means the axle has a flange on the wheel end that bolts on. if you go to the chevy dealership near you go to parts and they can print you out a break down of the axle according to your vin number on the van
Hello, If the tag is not present, you can get a rough estimate by putting a chalk line on the tire and on the drive shaft. With the vehicle jacked up spin the wheel and see how many times the drive shaft spins with a full tire rotation. If the shaft spins about 3 3/4 times you probably got the 3.73. If it spins a little over 4 times you probably got the 4.10. To get it exact you can remove the differential cover and count the teeth on the ring gear and pinion gear then divide the two to get the ratio. On the back of the rear differential there's a metaltag sticking out, with various numbers on it, like 8.8 for the 8.8" rear end, and probably a 3 73 or 4 10 for gear ratio. If there's a L between the numbers 3 L 73 then it is a limited slip. Also, the sticker in your door jamb will have info on it. One section will have the Axle code, 97 or R6 or something. The 8.8 should be plenty of enough axle for your motor but you can not go wrong with a ford 9 inch though becuase this will axle will handle any amount of horsepower you throw at it and the axles are easy to replace as well. I hope this fixes your problem.
Remove wheel, remove rear diff cover, remove small bolt that retains spider gear cross shaft in the carrier. Push axle in, remove "c" clip on end of axle and remove axle from housing. Reverse to replace. Only problem you may have is that sometimes small bolt is broken inside carrier. if broken you will need to drill a tiny hole into it and remove with tiny "easy out" or other similar device. Do not turn carrier when shaft has been removed or spider gears will rotate and fall out!
Is the c/k 3500 4 wheel drive?If it is 4WD,you must retain the same gear ratios for both front and rear axles,or the transfer case will be damaged.If it is 2 wheel drive,you can install any gear you like.I believe the Ford E350 rear axle is a Dana 70,as i have rebuilt 2 of that model,along with Dana 60's.The Ford unit likely will not be a bolt in.It will probably require professionally welding new mount brackets on the Ford axle housing.The width needs to be measured from inside the brake backing plate to the other brake backing plate to see if it will physically fit.Good luck.