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My coil for my ford bantam 1.6 cvh motor is not giving spark how do i set up the module and coil

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: no spark but turns over replaced ignition module,coil,ecm

could be in the crank position sensor

just a thought shack

Posted on Apr 18, 2009

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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: 89 ford probe, 2.2 turbo, no spark.

Check out your "fuel cut-off switch" located by the windshield washer tank behind the driver's side wheel-well panel in the trunk. It's a small box with a push-button at the top. If the button is "soft" when you push it, that's probably your problem. Replace the unit by removing the washer fluid tank first. The box simply plugs in. Probably about $ 100. I replaced three in my Probe. They rot out, and the car simple dies.

Posted on Nov 11, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1979 ford f350 has no

1979 ford 400 Drove inot shop did a cam shaft change and put all back together and no spark! put new coil , distributor, eletronic brian , wires ,rotor, cap, and check wire harness for brroken wires . still no spark? ANY IDEAS??

Posted on Mar 11, 2011

  • 189 Answers

SOURCE: 1984 Ford E-150 Econoline van It has no spark

check the wiring around the distributor i don't know how simular it is to a 1990 ford crown vicktoria 5.0 engine,
but on this car, there is a little two 2 prong plug beside the distributor no wires coming from the plug it's self , it plugs into the wiring harness it works like a fuse.
if you remove it or if it has melted the car WON'T START, no fire the link can be removed to keep the car from starting for testing purposes (fule pressure ect.)
when you wouldn't want the car to start

Posted on Sep 24, 2011

george_karas
  • 211 Answers

SOURCE: no spark at plugs but spark at coil with new ign module and picku

check the carbon and the spring in side the distributor cup 2nd change the high tention lead from the coil to distributor 3th ignition on remuve the 2 wires from the coil check the curen 12 volts as + conect to the coil and 4th check the black wire is your - with test light then conect to the coil good luck.

Posted on Jun 04, 2012

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IT IS MISSING iVE REPLACED THE PLUGS


Misfiring Escort...
THE Guide!
1- check HT leads, including the main lead from the coil. pull one off at a time and see if there is any difference in engine noise, if a lead makes no difference to the engine note when you pull it off it is broken and you need a new lead for that plug - best to replace a full set since the others will be on their way out too. try each plug and check the leads like this with the engine running, 2- clean/repace distributor cap and rotor arm if it is dirty or corroded, there are 2 Clips, one on either side of the distributor cap, pull em off, take the distributor cap off, look inside the cap, there are 4 pins, are they all corroded and covered in white stuff?, they should be shiny brass, clean them up with fine wet and dry sandpaper, make them flat and shiny again. also still on the distributor is the rotor arm, pull it off, it may need a bit of wiggling - clean this up the same with the wet and dry, get a very fine grade of wet and dry sandpaper since you want the metal to be as smooth as possible afterwards, once the cap and rotor both have shiny metal clean them with mild detergent, rinse and dry them fully, not only to clean them of dirt and grime but also the metal filings from the sanding are "bad" for the distributor.. once dried refit the rotor arm (it only goes on one way, do not force it) refit the distributor cap, make sure its the right way round (make a note of its position BEFORE you remove it) 3- check if air filter is blocked and replace it if it is very dirty - if you think it is blocked try running the engine without the filter and see if it runs better, you know for sure you have a bad filter if this is the case. 4- check fuel filter (especially on 1.0 and 1.3 engines) for blockage and fuel line for blockage (replacement costs £3.50-£5 or so)
apart from that its "experience required" jobs like setting the ignition timing - just get a normal tune up after you've checked out the leads and dizzy/rotor arm which is quite cheap on an escort, you only turn the dizzy and move 1 screw...
Just for reference in case i have misjudged you're ability and you want to try tune it yourself... 1989 MK4 Ford Escort ;-D you didn't give CC so you'll get all engine data for 1989! (petrol)
NOTE: the CVH engines have hydraulic tappets so no adjustment is possible and no data is given. ---------------------------------------------
Escort 1.3 "HCS" 1988-1990 1297cc Valve tappet clearances - Inlet --- 0.20mm - Exhaust 0.32mm Firing order 1-2-4-3 Idle speed - 700-800RPM -
750RPM is optimal idle but anything between 700-800RMP is acceptable.
Ignition Timing- 15 Degrees before top dead center at idle RPM
Spark Plugs : Motorcraft - AGRF22 Champion - RS9YC Spark Plug Gap - 1.00mm (check it is right or it will misfire...)
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Escort 1.4 (1392cc) "CVH" - 1986-1990
Firing Order 1-3-4-2 Idle speed 750-850RPM, 800 being optimum _____ NOTE: This engine requires premium fuel (97 Ron) or it will run poorly - damage may result from using low grade fuel. ----------------------------
Ignition Timing - 12 degrees BTDC at idle RPM. Spark plugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C Champion - RC7YC Spark plug gap 0.75mm (check this)

----------------------------------------------------------
Escort 1.4i Catalyst - 1.4 "CVH" 1392cc 1989-1990
Idle RPM 850-950RPM 900RPM Being optimum :This engine needs only regular unledad 95RON
Ignition timing - 8 to 12 degrees BTDC 10 degrees being optimum Spark PLugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C1 Champion - RC7YC
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ford Escort 1.6 "CVH" 1596CC
Firing order 1-3-4-2 Idle speed - 750-850RPM - 800 being optimal Ignition Timing - 12 degrees BTDC at 800 RPM Spark Plugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C Champion - RC7YC Spark Plug Gap - 0.75mm (check it!)
NOTE :This engine will run on regular fuel (95 RON) but the timing should be set to 8 Degrees BTDC at idle RPM for this fuel.
------------------------------------------------------------
FORD ESCORT 1.1 - 1989-1990 - 1118cc "HCS"
Firing order 1-2-4-3
Idle speed - 700-800RPM 750 Being optimal
This engine runs on regular or premium fuel without adjustment
Ignition Timing - 10 degrees BTDC
Spark Plugs - Motorcraft - AGRF22C1 Champion - RS9YC Spark Plug Gap 1.00mm (check this!)
-------------------------------------
So check your spark plug gaps with feeler guages if you don't have a feeler guage they're less than a fiver at a cheap motor shop - even pound shop and market stalls sometimes have them.
Apart from that lot - these cars can run bad if the battery is weak, they chug like hell on a half charged or failing battery, so make sure the battery is strong too...
The carburettor jets could be clogged or worn... Inlet manifold could be leaking?
Check the low tension wiring (the wiring on the ignition coil, the two round plugs that puch onto the coil) one red and one green/black/stripey/somethin - trace these two wires around the engine bay and check them for damage and loose connections.
Thats all I can think of right now tell me how you get on, I KNOW these cars... I'll go step by step if you need help checking everything/replacing whats wrong,
------------------------------
Good luck.

Jan 20, 2010 | 1989 Ford Escort

1 Answer

Car with loss of power


It could be that the coil is weak, or the igniter module is faulty (ie not giving the coil enough time to charge), or the fuel filter is blocked, or the exhaust is blocked. I have seen Cat Converters melt down internally and block up the exhaust pipe, causing faults like what you describe. Thats probably the first area i'd check, and easy enough to do so, just remove the Cat from the exhaust and take it for a drive. It'll be noisy, but if it goes heaps better then you know that is the problem. If it doesn't go any better, stick another fuel filter on it (it's probably due for one anyway) and see if that does anything. From there it's probably better to get a mechanic or auto electrician to diagnose the fault. It is also possible that the fuel pressure regulator could be faulty, not keeping sufficient fuel pressure in the fuel rail.

Oct 31, 2008 | Ford Laser Cars & Trucks

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