Have a 1999 suburban. Central door locking system does not seem to have enough energy to fully lock or unlock door motors. More you try to lock or unlock, weaker the power level becomes. Occasionally if left alone for a couple of days, seems to charge up and has almost enough power
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Re: How to repair locking mechanism on 1999
The locks do not operate with motors. They are individually operated by cylinoid switches which push or pull on the linkages. Older vehicles usually have these to fail in the colder months due to the thicker grease and sludge, etc. It sounds like your main control swithc is operating ok. You will likely have to take off the door panels and lubricate the linkages and switches and put anti corrosion grease (get at electrical supply place) on the wire connections. This will likely solve the problem or you may need to dissasemble and refurbish a switch as needed. If unable to rebuild, you will need to replace it.
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I have struck silimar issues with fords in NZ. If the actuator is getting full voltage during lock and unlocking, the actuator is faulty. Even though it wants to go it does not have enough strength to pull the lock mechanism, so it can not lock or unlock the catch.
this problem i have repaired many times.. it is normally a broken wire in the flexible rubber tube between the door and the doorjamb from years of flexing back and forth when you open and close the door.. i hope that helps
I recently answered this problem for someone else....If you can't find it here is what I found on my 1999 suburban .....The door lock actuator was bad, while i was replacing the actuator i noticed that the rod that goes from the keyed cylinder lock to the actuator was on enough of a bind that it was near impossible to lock and or unlock the door either with a key or the new actuator........the solution for me was to add a 3/4" spacer between the actuator mounting bracket and the door, also lubed the joints that were associated with the lock assy. hope this helps!
I just bought a 1999 Suburban and all of the door lock actuators were bad including the rear (barn style door) while I was replacing the rear door acuator I noticed that even with the factory mounting bracket on the actuator it was causing the door lock rod (the rod from the keyed cylinder lock to the actuator) was on a bind......the solution I came up with is adding an additional 3/4" spacer between the factory mount bracket and the door attach point. this solved any binding and the door lock works great now........also I used a lubricant on all the doors where the rods run through the plastic guides, which seemed to help quite a bit! Hope this help's.
Hello, we have a 2003 Kia Rio- problem as above- unlocking and then locking- only way in and out through passenger door.
This is what I have done and everything is back to normal- I hope it works for you.
1 Remove 25AMP fuse that controls door central locking from main box under the bonnet.
(AT this stage my passenger door opens- drivers side does not, the mechanism won't fully rotate)
2, Spray key with WD40 (or similar moisture repellent lubricant). Gently turn key to loosen mechanism- Partly remove key and spray lubricant into lock, have fun locking and unlocking!
3, Replace 25 amp fuse
4, Write yourself a cheque for garage labour and parts and wife brownie points!