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Skoda octavia won't start

I have checked all the fuses and changed the glow plugs but the fuel heater symbol does not light up. The starter goes but the car just won't fire up. I also had a new battery fitted last week thinking this was part of the problem.

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 119 Answers

SOURCE: volks wagen golf diesel tdi Nreg

Check the glow plug thermo sensor...found in the cylinder head.
Unlightly anything wrong with injector pump.
Good luck
John

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

SOURCE: Hello. My 1997 Chevy Tahoe

Now you have a good battery & a starter that turns over the motor

Have you cycled the key on & off with a fuel pressure gauge on the
fuel rail?

Do you have a fuel filter that isn't over 3 or 4 years old?

Have you checked for spark while cranking ? Use an old plug on the wires,
if you have ignition wires,don't ground the wire without resistance

If you removed the ducting & MAF Sensor it won't start

Tell us what you checked & exactly how that was done.

Posted on Jun 09, 2011

  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: SKODA OCTAVIA 1.9 TDI, 2001

IT IS NORMALLY A INDICATION OF GLOW PLUGS NOT HEATING UP CORRECTLY OR LEAKING INJECTORS. IS THE SMOKE DIESEL , DO U SMELL DIESEL.

Posted on Jun 16, 2011

TDISLine
  • 1874 Answers

SOURCE: 2007 Audi Q7. Engine tumbling

Check and replace if necessary the glow plug relay R1 placed in the fuse & relay box in engine compartment. See the picture below:

tdisline_810.jpg

Posted on Aug 03, 2011

bendarden
  • 984 Answers

SOURCE: 1988 nissan 300zx won't start it gets fire,

Make the FixYa experience better for everyone by voting.

Hi,

My name is Ben and I'm your guru, i.e., mentor, an influential teacher or popular expert: a management guru. - origin from Sanskrit, 'weighty, grave', for today.

As you evaluate my advice and suggestions, there are a few things you must keep in mind:

• I did not diagnose your problem and am therefore only able to evaluate what you tell me. For example, if you ask me a fuse location, that doesn't mean that I can tell you the reason why the fuse blew.
• A thorough diagnostic approach involves the use of technical equipment, such as voltage meters. scanning equipment and other sophisticated devices.
• Lastly, fixing one problem can very easily reveal a problem with something that you might consider unrelated. However, you must keep in mind that I can only evaluate and suggest based on the information that you provide.

Subject: Vehicle will not start
Your description of the problem: 1988 nissan 300zx won't start it gets fire, and fuel, cranks but won't start it has been sitting up for couple years but would't start is why I purchased the car I replaced the plugs, previous owner said he thought it was a fuel problem, but pump works, new f/filter new fuel rail, hose and clamps .

Discussion: Late model vehicles are highly computer controlled to reduce emissions, maximize fuel economy and improve consumer comfort. The various control systems in vehicles are interrelated and controlled by multiple computers that constantly monitor vehicle performance through a myriad of sensors located throughout the vehicle. Based on information received, the computers adjust the vehicle performance through a series of valves, switches and motors. You must use a scanner to unlock the information stored in your car's computer. Your 300Z is OBD -1 compliant.

A Scan Tool can be used to read and erase trouble codes, display, record and play back LIVE diagnostic data and perform other tests allowed by the vehicle maker. Scan tools that cover vehicles 1982 to present are available at your local auto supply dealer.

You don't indicate any diagnostic tests to date. A dealer or your local mechanic will charge $100-$200 to perform a diagnostic scan. However, AutoZone will sell you one for less than $30. Anyone who tells you that a modern vehicle can be diagnosed without a scanner with the problems you have set forth is merely guessing. You car has a computer and memory and probably knows exactly what the problem is. That on-board computer is just waiting for you to ask, "What's wrong". All of the suggestions cited below will require the use of a code scanner or a code reader.

This is how your problem is solved in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system or one of the system sensors that is causing the on-board computer to make adjustments as best it can. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a camshaft position sensor or a bad fuel pressure regulator.

This is where you'll start.

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Step 1.
Start with the pre-check:


Do a Thorough Visual Inspection
Do a thorough visual and "hands-on" underhood inspection before starting any diagnostic procedure! You can find the cause of many problems by just looking, thereby saving yourself a lot of time.
• Has the vehicle been serviced
recently? Sometimes things get
reconnected in the wrong place, or
not at all.
• Don't take shortcuts. Inspect hoses
and wiring which may be difficult to
see due to location.
• Inspect the air cleaner and
ductwork for defects.
• Check sensors and actuators for
damage.
• Inspect ignition wires for:
- Damaged terminals.
- Split or cracked spark plug boots
- Splits, cuts or breaks in the ignition
wires and insulation.
• Inspect all vacuum hoses for:
- Correct routing. Refer to vehicle
service manual, or Vehicle Emission
Control Information (VECI)
decal located in the engine compartment.
- Pinches and kinks.
- Splits, cuts or breaks.
• Inspect wiring for:
- Contact with sharp edges.
- Contact with hot surfaces, such as
exhaust manifolds.
- Pinched, burned or chafed insulation.
- Proper routing and connections.
• Check electrical connectors for:
- Corrosion on pins.
- Bent or damaged pins.
- Contacts not properly seated in
housing.
- Bad wire crimps to terminals
-Lastly, check for water in the fuel. Pour in a can of Heet and a bottle of injector cleaner.

Step 2.
Instructions:

Check the entire fuel delivery system.

  • Relieve system pressure. Disconnect the negative battery cable and loosen the gas cap to let pressure drain from the system. Attach a dual tube pressure gauge to the test port and drain fuel into an approved container.
  • Disconnect the fuel pressure sensor vacuum hose. Check for fuel in the line. If there is fuel present in the line, the fuel delivery problem is likely caused by a faulty fuel pump pressure regulator. If there is no fuel in the line, reattach the vacuum hose and continue with the fuel delivery diagnostic.
  • Twist off the fuel pressure test port cap and attach a pressure gauge to the fuel pressure valve if one is not already connected. Reconnect the negative battery cable and turn the key to the first position. Do not start the engine.
  • Check the pressure gauge. It needs to register between 45 and 48 psi. Start the engine and let it idle. Check the gauge again. It needs to register approximately 46 psi. Leave the engine on and remove the vacuum hose. Check the gauge one last time. It needs to register approximately 50 psi. Pressure that's too high indicates a malfunctioning pressure regulator. Low pressure indicates a clogged fuel filter or a broken fuel pump that needs to be replaced.
  • Cut the engine off, relieve system pressure again and remove the negative battery cable.
  • Clean the fuel filter inlet with compressed air to remove any dirt that might come loose and contaminate the fuel supply as you remove the fuel filter. Pull the filter out at the male filter fitting and disconnect the remaining connections to the filter. Remove the filter.
  • Examine the filter for clogs and replace it if necessary. If there are no clogs, the fuel delivery problem is probably caused by a breakdown in the fuel pump itself.


DO NOT RUN OUT AND BUY ANYTHING YET! This was only the opening act.

All of the above systems are monitored by the Engine Control Module/ Powertrain Module (a.k.a. on-board computer). A diagnostic scan retrieves any inform related to the malfunctioning parts and tells you precisely what is wrong. Perform the scan diagnostic now.

Be guided by the scan diagnosis and the problem should be fixed.

Start the car and perform another scan. The reason we rescan and repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, e.g.,if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

I know that the above is wordy but I wanted to do more than just tell you that your problem is complex.

All the best,

Ben

Posted on Sep 22, 2011

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