An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert who has finished #1 on the weekly Top 10 Fixya Experts Leaderboard.
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
Re: slow pick up
following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any
electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.
engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only
for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the
transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in
most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory
of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as
the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done
is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system
for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for
engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained
technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then
based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the
correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer
replaced (known as the PCM), which is very rarely the problem. Other
basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with
the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine.
The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear
engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related
problems. Also engine mechanical problems can and do cause many
drive-ability related problem such as rough idle and other symptoms.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
the sensor is part of the throttle body and not replaceable here is the throttle body replacement instructions as you will have to replace the entire throttle body it is a very common issue with these THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT
Remove the air cleaner intake duct.
Disconnect the electronic throttle control (ETC) electrical connector (1) from the throttle body (2).
Remove the heater pipe nut at the throttle body.
Remove only the heater inlet pipe.
Remove the nuts and the bolts from the throttle body.
If you have verified it's an engine problem, not a transmission problem-by noting the same slow response when car is stationary and in park or neutral-then possible the MAF sensor. Clean it with a can of MAF sensor cleaner. If the throttle body is dirty inside, clean that with crc brand cleaner, a throttle body intake cleaner. Check or replace the air filter. If the hesitation is still there, it might be the throttle position sensor. And if still not it, scan for trouble codes and check fuel pressure. Good luck.
your throttle body is somewhere between your air box(air filter) and the inlet manifold. although some cars like nissan skyline gtr,s or the pulsar gtir have thiers on the manifold itself and has a throttle body for each cylinder. hope this helps.
On the inlet flex hose coming from the Air Filter to the Throttle Body, there is attached with 2 tiny screws the AIR FLOW METER,or by the side of the Throttle body,remove it carefully and remove the "O" Rings and use a carburator cleaner and clean the inside of it where the Hot-Wire is as the dust picked up by the filter will seat on the Hot wire and cause the false message sent to the ECU and makes car goes very slowly .
follow the water inlet pipe to water pump the thermostat housing connects to water pump this is for 2.4l engine you have to remove exhaust manifold heat shield.you will see the water inlet pipe going to water pump inlet thermostat housing.for the 3.1 engine follow top radiator hose to thermostat housing you have to remove air filter air duct and filter housing , you have to remove throttle body unit with coolant hoses, you have to disconnect accelerator cable, transmission down shift cables at the bracket bolts to throttle body.once you remove throttle body unit then you can see and remove the thermostat housing to replace thermostat.you need to buy new throttle body gasket,and new small coolant hoses connects to the throttle body unit.have extra gallon antifreeze dexcool on hand.
You do not state the age of the car or the type or the size of engine or whether it is petrol or diesel. On older E class models a fault in the over voltage protection relay would cause cars to be very jerky in idle.
In general on petrol models I would start with the throttle body. Remove the air ducting between the air filter cleaner and the throttle. Make sure the interior of the throttle, the throttle plate and throttle area behind the throttle plate is really clean. Ensure that all all air ducting joints and vacuum lines to the inlet plenum are free of any leaks. On some engine variants the cam sensor oil seal over time can fail allowing oil to contaminate the electrical connection. Thoroughly cleaning the socket and replacing the 'o' ring usually fixes this.
On diesels (3.2 CDi etc) the EGR feed pipe from the exhaust manifold around the back of the engine to the inlet manifold can become clogged with soot. Push a frayed bit of hand brake cable through it to clean it; clamping the cable in a drill chuck can make for a very effective flexible interior wire brush around pipe pipe corners etc.
Any further information you can provide as per the opening statement would help in the diagnosis
Check that you have not got any vacum leaks between inlet manifold and cylinder head.
Check your spark plugs and HT leads are in good condition and not worn, reset gaps. If worn replace them.
Worse scenario is the head gasket make be leaking water into a cylinder. Get a cylinder leakage test done to verify any manifold air leaks or faulty sealing head gaskets. Good luck, let me know how you get on.
You could have a dirty EGR valve, you can re move it from the manifold and clean it with Throttle body cleaner. Might as well buy two cans, since your cleaning the EGR, might as well clean out the throttle body too.
Spray the throttle body cleaner in to the throttle body with the engine running and try to keep it at 1000 rpm and then to 1500 rpm as you clean out the throttle body and let it idle down for 2 min then turn the engine off. Then turn the engine to the run position for 10 seconds and start and let idle, ro for a test drive and hope that solved the problem, if not there a few more things we can do which will consist for tune up.
Note: Clean the EGR first so you don't burn your self since the engine would still be cool before you clean the Throttle body.
Good luck and keep me posted.