I have a 1999 Tahoe. I hardly drive the truck, only during the winter, mainly when it snow. When I start it up it, and put it in drive, it would not move. I let the truck run for 20 minutes, and try again, it moved. I drove it around, and park it. I never drove it for about a year, until last week. When I start the truck and put it in gear, it jumped. While driving it felt like I was driving in gear 2. I was going to start first with changing the transmission fluid and filter. I heard flushing may make it worse. Could it be anything else?
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
WINTER TIRES As a mechanic and a shop owner I get to try out various types of vehicles during test drives. So we get to try out different types of tires too. We learn what works well and what doesn't. Don't kid yourself, all season tires don't come close to a quality winter tire on ice and snow. And when you add studs to a winter tire it makes them incredibly good. I hope they allow studded tires where you drive. All season tires work well when they can contact the road surface directly, but when isolated from the road by ice and snow they just don't work. The compound of the tire is generally harder to resist summer heat that wears tires out and with the colder temperatures they just get stiffer. The winter tire compound is a little softer which allows a better contact patch with whatever is under it and the larger tread gaps pinch the snow to gain traction. Another big misconception with tires is putting them on the drive wheels only. OK, why not you ask? Well lets start with one of the most common vehicles on the road today, a family sedan, front wheel drive. On these cars your engine and transmission is front mounted, so a good part of the weight is front biased. So that puts lots of weight on your front wheels. Weight =traction, right? So you put your winter tires on the front and your already used all seasons on the back. Imagine now cruising down the freeway in 4 inches of fresh snow, "man these winter tires are awesome !" But you need to brake in a hurry for a deer coming out. Well those fresh winters do their job OK but the lightweight back end of your car hasn't the traction to handle the maneuver, the back end is sliding around sideways...hang on to it!!! Well you get the picture now. You need all 4.
DONT SPIN YOUR TIRES
How many times do you see it each slippery day? You know, the drivers wheels howling for mercy as they attempt to accelerate. Many vehicles today are equipped with traction control, there is a good reason for this accessory to your vehicle. If you can accelerate without spinning you will get moving faster than someone who is, and under more control too. A spinning tire will often create a hot spot under itself, melt the ice or snow and make it even more slippery. You even run the risk of getting yourself stuck in the rut you create. A spinning tire also will go sideways easier, as it loses traction it also loses some direction. Granpa said to me sometimes...slow down and go faster ...I now have seen the truth in it.
Someone else mention that the WINTER button makes the car start in 2nd gear to improve traction and reduce slipping in snow and ice. perhaps your winter button is active and it needs to be unclicked. in regular weather starting in 2nd would be like you describe.
If it were my car I would try to stick to a 215 15 with a mud and snow or M+S tread design but I would be looking for a middle number of 70 not 50. The middle number is the width of the tread and in snow a skinny tire is better than a wide tire. It will cut through instead of float over. Floating is okay until you spin, then you are done. Disregard any sales pitch about all season treads being good for winter. It should be illegal for them to claim that because they are no good in any amout of snow more than 2 flakes thick. You could go down to a 205 15 without a lot of trouble but any smaller will start to lower the front of your car significantly. If you go to a larger 225 then you may run into issues with steering and suspension travel, not to mention they will cost a little more. If you live in an area with a lot of ice during the winter you may want to consider studding the tires. It will make a difference but if most of your winter driving is on bare or nearly bare roads don't bother. Studs can be a problem on bare roads and most places have strict rules about when you can put them on and when they come off.
Look for a 215-70-15 or a 205-70-15 for the best results. If you can get a 75 even better but try to stay away from a 50 for winter driving if you can. Hope this helps.
The W/S mode button stands for Winter and Standard. Winter mode increases torque and thus adherence when starting. I believe that under normal conditions, standard mode is to be prefered as it improves acceleration and makes the ride more comfortable.
The ACR button inhibits the electronic drive assistance. This again might be necessary when driving under certain winter-conditions (snow, ice), but should normally be let active.
Based on another similar problem and it was fixed driving backwards, that's exactly what I did. I drove the Rodeo backwards and then would stop and put it in gear and did this for 10 minutes until I worked the 4x4 gear loose and now all four wheels run. I must say, I created quite a sight driving backwards in a Wal-Green's parking lot for 10 minutes.