Question about 2001 Chevrolet S-10

19 Answers

Fuel pump replaced fuel pump,reconnected all ground wires and hooked up all tail lights,tightened all bed bolts.New pump did not work.Symptoms prior were hesitated starting a couple morning,thought i better replace fuel filter-quit on me moving it 300 ft to shop-unhooked fuel lines-turned it over-wouldn't pump fuel-replaced filter-thought what the heck I'll try it again with 1 end disconnected then it pumped fuel-worked for 2 days then wouldn't start again in the morning.replaced pump-looked at every fuse in engine compartment-also fuses left side of dash and behind glove box.Other symptoms-front l&r turn signals flash rapidly as if a bulb is out,very weak voltage to rear tail lightswon't really flash at all.Could my key ignition being wore out add to the problem-such as voltage to the 5 sec timer for fuel pump or just plain add problems all around?? Thanks rigginslinger1

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  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    Thanks for your time-I used a ohm meter and checked my grounds-all seem to be grounded.


  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    sounds fine but how does that tie in with the electrical symptoms and what part of the fuel injection system should i start with namely since there is no pump start-up first.

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    That sounds fine, but I don't know the voltage of the pump, and if I hook direct 12V up to it, the full amperage of the battery might ruin the pump. Am I correct to assume this?

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    if there is a problem with 1 or more injectors will this not allow the fuel pump no electricity

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    Yes sir I tried that-might be from my old diesel rabbit days that made me try that-the wore out ignition switch keeps popping up in the back of my mind-but what would that have to do with the flashing problems with turn signals which seemed to happen about same time.Thanks and Happy New year to you also!!!

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    Thanks-but clean as my kitchen floor-checked inside tank when i put in new pump-looked like new tank inside!!

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    Thank you but installed new pump-the symptoms prior to me installing new pump were the intermitant problems and the rapid flashing of the turn signals.


  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    Thanks-does the tuning on of the key just supply electricity to the starter relay and also other components while in the start only detent position?

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    another thing i tried so far as relays-when i turn my 4 ways on i get more juice to the back blinkers while with only my turn signals on i get rapid flashing front and no juice to the back turn signal light.relays don't usually do intermitant operating-do they. All these big 50¢ words are killing me!!!

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    have not seen any of those displays in instrument cluster.Thank you

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    I am with you on running another ground wire and thank-you on correcting me so nicely on the amperage draw for the pump-I knew that back in the day!!!!

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    Thank-you-I have not replaced any fuses or relays although i have swapped them for know good ones,and i had my wife turn the key to start position without turning engine over and did not hear pump start.

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    no oil leaks,all good belts,new engine with 7000 miles on it-got 145,000 on last engine but replaced intake manifold gasket at about 110,000 then head gasket went at 145,000 due to the orange coolant problem.

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    new sock came with the new pump.Did not check fuel pressure prior to removing old pump but did switch relays before removing old pump. Thank you

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    Thank you. Will try your remedy in morning but still wondering about lights and problems with electrical demons.I have got to get it pretty much nailed down-I can't buy to many relays on my $10.00 a week allowance my wife gives me.

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    Thank you-but if it was bad or out of adjustment i could not even turn it over could i? It cranks just fine.

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    Thank you The mu 1062 I got was a same plug as stock but i hear it is getting harder to get them.

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    Thank you replaced with known good relay.

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    Thanks-the only other cause might be from installing or removal of new and old engine-something might of got bumped on a wiring harness.

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    Thanks voltage strength was considered

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    Thank you good advice.

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    thanks just installed new pump

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    Good idea about the fuel pump relay or emergency shut-off switch - will check. Thanks.

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    thank you replaced fuel pump already

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    thank you- have 12v at pump

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    thanks have replaced as stated

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    thanks found problem-fuse block stock wiring got past qc!!!!

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    I would like to thank every one that pitched in to help me-you were all gracious with your time.I may have not left proper rateings at the proper time but all were helpful.
     The soloution and problem was at the fuse block under the hood left side above wheel well.Looks like the wiring got past quality control at the factory and just started giving me problems-the way they were twisted I could not of duplicated it when i swapped out my engine.I also ran another ground wire to the chasis in the rear.The way I isolated the fuse block wire is pulled up schematic from Autozone and isolated things from there. Thanks again-I will do better on the ranking next time.
                                                                 
                                                                                 Happy Trails- rigginslinger1

  • Karen Doney Jan 03, 2009

    Thanks to all please refer to my post.

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19 Answers

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A. Testing Fuel Pressure: Test for proper fuel pressure with a test gauge on the fuel rail, most throttle body injection cars (TBI) are between 13 psi and 17 psi. Most (DPI) direct port inject systems are between 40 psi and 55 psi. If little or no fuel pressure is observed and there is 12 volt power present at the fuel pump, the fuel pump has failed and needs replacing.



B. Test for Fuel System Pressure Bleed Down:
With a fuel pressure gauge connected to the fuel rail, turn the key to the on position without starting the engine. You should observe the fuel pressure gauge jump up quickly to operating pressure. Then turn the key off, if the gauge pressure falls quickly it is a sign of a failing fuel pump. Next check the fuel injectors; if the nozzle valve inside of the fuel injector is failing it can cause excess fuel to leak inside the engine causing a rich, hard starting condition.


C. Test Idle Air Control Motor (IAC)
An idle air control motor adjusts the amount of air released into the engine when the engine is at idle. This air controller is monitored and adjusted as needed by the ECM. As car mileage increases the IAC motor is subjected to mass amounts of air which contain impurities that leave deposits that can slow or stop the operation of the IAC motor. To check for this condition remove the IAC motor and inspect, if the plunger of the motor has deposits, clean or replace the motor with a new unit. (Note: clean the air passenger ways with an aerosol cleaner before installing the new idle air control motor.)


D. Inspect for
Vacuum Leaks: Inspect your engine vacuum hoses for tears or ruptures. If vacuum from the engine is allowed to leak it will cause a lean mixture causing the engine to crank excessively before start up, replace any broken or cracked vacuum lines with new and recheck system.


E. Check Air Intake Boot:
Inspect the air intake boot from the throttle body to the mass air flow meter. If torn or broken it will allow the engine to have a lean fuel/air mixture causing excessive cranking. Replace the air intake boot and recheck system.
F. Test for Faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator: If a fuel pressure regulator diagram ruptures it can allow raw fuel into the engine through the vacuum feed line attached to the intake manifold. To check for this condition remove the vacuum line from the regulator and check for the presence of fuel inside the vacuum line, if fuel is present replace the fuel pressure regulator.

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

  • Jerry Parmanand Jan 03, 2009


    G. Test for Low Compression.
    (For high mileage engines only) Remove a spark plug, insert compression gauge and test. The engine compression should be above 115 p.s.i. if not, the engine with crank longer before enough compression can be generated for ignition.

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You must replace the fuel pump because the electric fuel pump is the heart of every electronic fuel injection system. Let's review the basics of this critical fuel injection part.Usually located inside or near the fuel tank, the fuel pump's job is twofold:
1) To push fuel from the tank to the injectors, and
2) To create sufficient pressure so the injectors will deliver the correct amount of fuel under all operating conditions.
The pressure developed by the pump, as well as the volume of fuel it flows, must both meet the vehicle manufacturers' requirements or engine performance, economy and emissions will suffer.
The amount of fuel pressure required for a given application will vary depending on the type of injection system (L-Jetronic, CIS, Motronic, etc.), the flow characteristics of the injectors and the engine's fuel requirements.
For example, certain Audi models with Bosch Motronic require 55 to 61 psi (3.8 to 4.2 BAR) of static pressure measured with the engine off. By comparison, a BMW may require 43 psi (3.0 BAR) on some models or 48 psi (3.3 BAR) on others. The differences may not seem like much, but a few pounds of fuel pressure can have a significant impact on engine performance and emissions.
Replacement Fuel Pump PrecautionsSelecting the "right" replacement fuel pump involves more than looking up the year, make, model and engine size of your car. It also means choosing a pump that meets all OE performance specifications and fits the same as your original - Bosch pumps do, but many other brands don't. Bosch is, of course, the company that pioneered fuel injection technology.
To maximize coverage with the fewest number of part numbers, some major aftermarket companies have taken consolidation to the extreme. They have over-consolidated their fuel pump applications by using only a few fuel pumps for a wide range of car applications.
Because of the many different performance requirements and pump designs used in today's cars, this often causes performance and fit problems. For example, when fuel pumps from three of Bosch's competitors were compared against the OE specifications for the cars the pumps supposedly fit, some glaring shortcomings were discovered:
Example #1: One pump from Competitor A covers 70 OEM part numbers, yet has a fuel delivery rate 42 to 50 percent less than the OE specifications.
Example #2: A pump from Competitor B also covers 70 OEM part numbers, but has a fuel delivery rate 25 percent less than OE specifications.
Example #3: One pump from Competitor C covers a whopping 153 OEM part numbers but has a fuel delivery rate 30 to 42 percent less than many OE specifications and exceeds OE electric consumption by 33 to 50 percent!
Example #4: Some Bosch competitors were found to be using fuel pumps that are a different size or type than the original. Competitor B uses a 38mm diameter pump for 51mm diameter pump applications. To make it fit, they include a rubber sleeve. To make matters worse, the pump's outlet pipe location is off-center, which causes the pump to jut out half an inch more than the OE fuel pump. The same company also substitutes an inner-gear style pump for cars that were originally equipped with a turbine pump, which can cause unwanted pressure fluctuations and noise.
Example #5: Another trick some competitors employ is to use the same inlet filter screen on a wide variety of cars. Companies A, B and C all use only one filter screen for more than 20 different OEM applications. This results in a poor fit on some cars because of variations in the shape of the fuel pot reservoir inside the tank.

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

  • Antonio Buenafe Jr.
    Antonio Buenafe Jr. Jan 03, 2009

    check and follow up the fule pump hose

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Two things ... have you checked the fuel pump relay.... and also the emergency fuel shut off... it's located in one of the rear compartments just inside the rear door left or right side

Robert

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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Pls change your fuel pump or it need some sevice.

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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Ok-Not one Person asked you if you had Repalced the Flasher that is on the Top Right of the Fuse panel under the Dash on Driver side! That is Prob. your Blinker Prob. Not sure about the Fuel Pump though.

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

  • Travis Humphries
    Travis Humphries Jan 03, 2009

    No Problem! Happy to Help!

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If the pump was not from dealer you have to cut the wires and replace the new conectors , if you did make sure all the wires match otherwise it will never work

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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I didn't see it mentioned anywhere. You mentioned concerns about a worn out start switch. Have you checked the neutral safety switch? It can be located at the base of the steering column or on the side of the transmission. If it becomes loose or gets bumped out of adjustment you will have similar problems. Sometimes here sometimes there, or ot at all. It's a relative inexpensive part, (usually less than $15) the only bad thing is getting into position to replace it.

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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TURN KEY ON 5 SECONDS WAIT TURN KEY BACK ON 5 SECONDS PUMP WILL PRIME.IF NOTDISCONNECT POSITIVE CABLE ON BATTERY AND WAIT 5 MINUTES RECONNECT THIS WILL RESET COMPUTER,IF THIS DOES NOT WORK LET ME KNOW.RICHARDM69

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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  • 115 Answers

First thing, how bad was the old fuel filter? Was it completely clogged? I'd first check voltage to the new fuel pump using a test light one end to a ground, other to the fuel pump wire or connector). Have someone turn the key on - off slow while you watch the light. Remember that the fuel pump will only run for 3 seconds on a GM if the engine isn't running. If there is power to the pump, is it humming or buzzing quietly while the test light is lit? (if not you've got a bad pump, even though it's new-take it back).
When you changed the pump, did you change or atleast clean the 'sock'? The sock, as most people call it, is a filter that attaches to the fuel pick up tube inside the fuel tank. These often clog and a new pump won't make any difference.
Lastly, was a fuel pressure test done before it quit? The fuel pressure regulator (not the fuel pump as someone else mentioned) controls the fuel flow. The pump puts out the same pressure (and should require the same voltage/amperage at any time).

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

  • Dave Markley
    Dave Markley Jan 03, 2009

    It's also possible to have gotten a bad relay (any experienced mechanic will tell you it isn't unusual to get bad 'new' parts occasionally). Did you check for power to the new pump ?

  • Dave Markley
    Dave Markley Jan 03, 2009

    I forgot to mention, you asked about more power to turn signals than 4-ways in the back. Keep in mind you are powering 4 light bulbs when the blinkers are on as opposed to two with turn signals, so voltage may be a little lower. Please let me know when you check F/pump circuit in AM.
    It will be easier to find other (ie:wiring) problems if the truck's running.


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Open the hood and check the for any oil leaks from engine on the starter or attenuator which can cause short in the electrical system in the car and also check for any missing belt or short in the wiring in the car ...


Good luck...

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, a couple of ideas you may want to consider/explore or try/check:

  • bench test the fuel pump, two wires straight from the 12V battery and no the amperage would be dictated by the requirement of the pump not how much the battery can supply;
  • the rapid front signals and the weak tail lights are significant. Each of them are supplied by different branch/circuitry and often would have separate fuses and definitely different switches to activate. It would be very very rare that all bulbs, all wires, all circuitry/wiring, all switches related to the signal, fuel pump, tail and brake would go out at the same time;
  • however the common control for all of them except for the brake light would be the ignition switch as you suspected;
  • though I firmly doubt it is the ignition switch. I am more firmly inclined to think that you have a loose ground (bear with me);
  • the easiest/fastest way to confirm this supposition is to wire an extra ground wire from the negative of the battery to the rear of the vehicle (to any exposed metal part preferably the chassis or the common ground wire of the electricals at the rear);
  • the best would be to wire the temporary ground wire to the body of the fuel pump and or its determined ground line/wire and the same to the rear lights specifically, the metal body of the bulb sockets.
Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Jan 03, 2009

    Appreciate your quick postback.

    Pls post again for any updates on developments (or even the lack of any).

    Cheers.


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So replacing the pump is the primary fix, but you must replace the connector as well or else the new pump will have a shorter life span, maybe only a few months.
*Edit*
I have never replaced a fuel pump relay without a cause, usually a pump that draws too much current and burnt the ground side terminal. Obviously if the fuse is blown replacing it may fix your problem for a short time, but the underlining cause is still there. So replacing a relay or fuse can sure fix the problem for a period of time but it occured for a reason, not because the fuse or relay was old and just reached its life span.
Yes replacing blown fuses may limp it home as you asked but it will not fix the vehicle.

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

  • Sibananda Jena
    Sibananda Jena Jan 03, 2009

    Fuel pump test:



    1. Get yourself a helper.



    2. remove the gas cap.



    3. have one person listen in the gas tank at the gas cap opening.



    4. have the other person turn the ignition switch to the ON position
    ONLY so as the dash lights come on. Do NOT attempt to start the engine.



    5. As soon as the ignition key is turned to the ON position, The person
    at the gas tank should hear the fuel pump run for TWO SECONDS and then
    it should STOP.



    6. Does it ?.





    If you do NOT hear it run, in most cases the fault is the fuel pump.







    let me know.







    Fuel pump circuitry:



    As soon as you turn ON the ignition switch to start the engine a 2
    second ONLY battery voltage signal is sent from the computer to the
    fuel pump relay and from the relay back to the fuel pump in the fuel
    tank. This runs the fuel pump for ONLY 2 seconds of which pressurizes
    the fuel system in preparation to start the engine.



    Once the engine starts, The computer BYPASSES the fuel pump relay and
    sends constant contionous battery voltage from the computer to the oil
    pressure switch of which is now CLOSED because the oil pressure is UP
    because the engine is running. Therefore the battery voltage flows thru
    the oil pressure switch back to the fuel pump to run the fuel pump
    constantly until you turn OFF the engine.



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This is sounding like a relay problem. I would check all main relays, you may need to replace more then one.

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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As mentioned by you that you have already changed the fuel pump and you still have the same problem so just check the key ignition part. It is most likely that it has wore out and needs servicing.

Thanks

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

  • Indrajit Roy
    Indrajit Roy Jan 03, 2009

    Lets get it checked from a Service centre



    Thanks

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Hi The way I would check the fuel pump is to make some voltage measurements with a voltmeter. If the pump were the intermittent problem one could see the voltage fluctuating on the meter. Unfortunately,
the electrical problems require the correct instrumentation to troubleshoot. 

Perhaps there is a place where you can get a fuel pump, say a junk yard where you would not have to spring for a new one.

Good luck 

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Jan 03, 2009

    check fuel pump relay ,if the relay is ok you may...have a bad fuel pump....


  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Jan 03, 2009

    Either that or the fuse. The fuse and/or relay would often be found in the engine bay pretty close to the batter. There would be several..This might work for most: 

    Theft Module Re-learn Procedure without a T5O or T6O
    During this procedure, the vehicle battery must maintain a minimum of 10.5 volts. If the battery is not fully charged or is weak, a battery charger may be connected. 
    NOTE The battery charger must NOT be set in 12 volt boost. This will prevent this procedure from working.
    1. Cycle the ignition switch to the "Run" position. 
    2. Wait a minimum of 10 minutes, cycle the ignition switch to the "Off" position. 
    3. Cycle the ignition switch to the "Run" position. 
    4. Wait a minimum of 10 minutes, cycle the ignition switch to the "Off" position. 
    5. Cycle the ignition switch to the "Run" position. 
    6. Wait a minimum of 10 minutes, cycle the ignition switch to the "Off" position. 
    7. Verify the repair. 

    and if not try this:

    STARTING DISABLED/DUE TO THEFT SYSTEM/REMOVE IGNITION KEY" 
    If the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) does not receive the Fuel Enable message it will use the class 2 serial data line (CKT 1807) to tell the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) to display the "STARTING DISABLED/DUE TO THEFT SYSTEM/REMOVE IGNITION KEY" message on the Driver Information Center(DIC) . This will inform the driver of why the engine is not starting. When the ignition is turned "OFF", the IPC will start a timer and display messages to inform the driver to wait for the PASS-Key II timer to run out. The messages will read "WAIT 3 MINUTES", "WAIT 2 MINUTES" (after 1 minutes has passed), "WAIT 1 MINUTE", and "START CAR".
    If the timer was not run out, the IPC will not send the Fuel Enable message. When the PCM does not receive the Fuel Enable message, it will command the IPC to re-start the message process.
    This message is most likely caused by an improper key resistor value or the IPC did not properly sense the ignition key resistance. 

  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Jan 03, 2009

    yes ,the tuning on the key supply electricity to the starter relay
    and also other components while in the start only detent position.did you checked relay..if doesnt work you shoulld check the extra ground wire.........

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Seems that if you had no fuel unitl you replaced the filter then you had fuel, and then lost it again.....I'd change the filter again..make sure your tank isn't ful of some sludge.....did you get any girls angered lately?...somebody dropping something in the tank could be your problem.

I hope this helps, thanks for letting us at FixYa.com take a shot

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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If your fuel pump is not working there is a possibility that your fuel pump relay is bad. When you turn the ignition key forward the coil inside the relay is energized. When the coil is energized you can generally quietly hear the fuel pump buzzing for a few seconds. The fuel pump will come on before the engine has a chance to start up so that the fuel system will be pre pressurized. If the relay has gone bad the fuel pump will never come on. If you don’t hear the fuel pump turn on, look under the hood, probably inside the fuse panel to locate the relay. The air conditioning circuit will probably use a similar relay. If the relays are the same, you can swap the two to test the fuel pump relay. If this does not work... i will dig deeper to help figure out the issue.... let me know either way.... I really hope this works for you!.... Happy New Year!!!!! Please rate! :)

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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Check to see if one of the wires leading to the ppump is broken,, A direct connection to the battery or make use of a relay to replace the old pump circuit.. More than likely broken wireing is your problem.

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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Please check your fuel injection and let us know the results, from there we will continue to help you the best we can.

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

  • machadojr_fe Jan 03, 2009

    I would check with the injectors first I apologize I did not specify

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Fuel tank and fuel pump removal on 1991 ford ranger


Open the hood and support it with the hood prop rod. Unhook the negative battery cable from the terminal with the battery wrench. Position the cable end away from the battery so that it cannot accidentally contact the battery during the rest if this procedure.

  • Disconnect the fuel filler neck from the side of the truck bed with the socket set. Unbolt the truck bed retainer bolts from the floor of the bed with the socket set.

  • Lift the bed up and off the Ranger's frame with the assistance of another person. Walk the truck bed off the back of the Ranger and set it off to the side.

  • Rap the rag around the tip of the screwdriver, place the tip against the fuel pump retaining ring and tap the screwdriver's handle with the rubber mallet to turn the retaining ring counterclockwise. Remove the ring by hand.

  • Disconnect the fuel pump wiring harness and fuel lines with the screwdriver. Lift the old pump out of the gas tank and insert the new pump in its place. Make sure the new pump occupies the same position and orientation the old pump had prior to removal.

  • Tighten the fuel pump retaining ring with the rag, screwdriver and mallet by rotating it clockwise. Reconnect the wiring harness and fuel lines with the screwdriver.

  • Lift the truck bed off the ground and place it back on the Ranger's frame with the assistance of another person. Make sure the fuel filler neck clears the frame and seats into the filler neck hole in the bed wall when you're lowering the bed onto the frame.

  • Reinstall the bed retaining bolts with the socket set and reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery with the battery wrench

  • Jul 16, 2016 | Ford Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    How to remove the gas tank on a 1990 dodge dakota, i can not find how to loosen straps


    The easiest way to work on the fuel tank is to take out the 8 bolts that hold the bed to the frame, they are bolted from underneath. Unplug the tail lights and the filler neck and just lift the bed off and sit aside. You can now sit on the rear tire and work on the fuel pump. Much easier than having to drop the tank.

    Before you just throw off the 8 bed bolts, first you have to disconnect battery cables, tail lamp wires, the exhaust support hangar, fuel vent hoses, spare tire winch, then the hold down bolts.

    Jun 20, 2011 | 1990 Dodge Dakota

    1 Answer

    Got a 91 lexcen had tail light wiring do now no fuel pump working just wonderin if any idea how wiring has been crossed. Any reference info would be great thank you.


    It sounds like you may have a mixup with your grounds, which is terribly common with tail lights. I would suggest that you check that your fuel tank is grounded. Does the fuel gauge work? If the gauge is not working since you repaired the tail light wiring, the chances are that you have accidently hooked up the ground for the tail lights to your fuel tank wiring. You can check with a meter to make sure there is continuity between your fuel tank and ground.

    Feb 18, 2011 | Toyota Land Cruiser Cars & Trucks

    3 Answers

    2001 s10, fuel pump would not come on. i replaced with new one, fuel pump still wont come on. what is next


    I ran into the same problem and solved it. To replace the fuel pump I had to remove the bed since the fuel tank is under it. I had to disconnect the tail light wires including the ground wires. One side had 1 grounding wire and the other had 2 grounding wires. After a month of messing around with fuses and sensors I found out that one of the (Two ground wires) next to the left tail light was actually the (Fuel pump ground wire). So if you don't know which one I am talking about, make sure you connect ALL the tail light wires and plugs before cranking up the engine. This was my luck with the s10 2001 and good luck to you :)

    Jul 29, 2010 | 2001 Chevrolet S-10

    1 Answer

    How to replace 2001 s10 pickup fuel pump


    This is not a full answer, but a tip on an easier way.to get to the pump. Instead of removing the gas tank. Just pull the bed off the truck! I guarantee that it will be easier. I did this on a 2001 S10 and it took less that an hour to remove the bed.
    Remove the spare tire, and the tube that the tool to lower the tire goes through. You will need to unplug your tail lights under the back or the bed on both sides. There is also a grounding screw for the tail lights on each side that needs to be removed. Remove the screws that hold the gas tank filler hose to the side of the bed - right by the filler cap. Remove the tailgate (to make the bed lighter). Follow the frame down the length of the bed and you will find the bolts holding the bed on. There should be 6 or 8 bolts. My S10 had 8 bolts and my son's full size Chevy PU had 6 bolts (go figure?). Then just lift the bed off the truck. We did my S10 with 3 people and it had a camper shell and rack on it. My son's full size truck was lifted off with only 2 people. I would suggest 4 people however - one on each corner to make it easier to lift and control.
    Replace the pump as described above and then you can start the engine to make sure everything works before setting the bed back on. NOTE: The fuel pump grounds back with the tail light ground. If the engine doesn't start right away, try grounding the wire back by the tail lights. It works like a charm. This is an especially nice way to do it if the gas tank is full! I spent 18 years as a professional mechanic and this is one of the slickest, least known tricks I have come across. I wish I'd known about it when I was wrenching for a living! Cheers!
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    Apr 20, 2010 | 2001 Chevrolet S-10

    2 Answers

    Fuel pump will not engage, relay seams to be ok, I'm thinking of replacing the fuel pump. Am I missing somthing?


    No, As long as you have power and ground then you got a bad fuel pump, a relay is very uncommon for your truck. ALMOST all of the time the pump is bad. Make sure the Grey wire has power and the large black wire has ground. (the wires at the pump ontop of the fuel tank).
    I find it easier to lift the bed of the truck off, then to remove the gas tank. The bed is only held on by 8 bolts and the fuel neck is held on by three 7mm headed bolts, There are also some wires you will need to remove for the rear tail lights.

    Oct 18, 2009 | 2000 Chevrolet S-10

    1 Answer

    Anything but the fuel pump!


    More then likely the fuel pump is shot. Might be the fuel pump relay but from experince it's the fuel pump. And changing the fuel pump isn't that hard on pickups. I have done several on the ground lowering the tank but if that dosn't sound pleasing you can take the bed off the truck. 6-8 bolts for the bed, two wire connectors for the tail lights, two hose clamps for the fuel inlet and vent tubes, and two guys to lift off the bed.

    Sep 28, 2009 | 1999 GMC Sierra

    2 Answers

    Need 2001 dodge 1500 fuel pump replacement diagram


    make sure you get the right pump, you need to know your tank size. then take off your bed. you have i believe 6 bed bolts, disconnect tail lights (unplug from underneath) remove bed grounding strap 1 screw, remove bed with help. Disconnect wires, unscrew fuel pump, replace pump. Reverse order to replace bed. jim

    Jun 11, 2009 | 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck 2WD

    2 Answers

    Chevy S10 Tail Light issue


    CHEVY S-10 TAIL LIGHTS PROBLEM RESOLVED...It seems Chevy engineered a ground shorting clip located under the left rear bumper area. It looks like a connector for trailer wiring harness, but in actuallity is a metal shorting clip which ties 5 wires together. They are all the ground wires for the tail lights. Then one single small wire runs to ground completeing the circuit. Problem is that this one wire is not tough enough to be a strain relief for the grounding plug and over time the ground wire wears, leaving intermittent lighting problems. FIX IS TO SPLICE THE GROUND WIRE INTO ONE OF THE FIVE OTHER WIRES AND USE PLASTIC TY WRAP FOR STRAIN RELIEF. This fixes no tail lights, intermittent rear signals, and other significant problems. I just got done making this same repair on a 2000 s-10 and everything works fine. Since it is the strain on the single ground wire connected to the connector that leads to failure, it is best to tie a new ground or clip the ground wire coming out of the plug and resplice it into one of the other five wires. Does not matter which one since electrically it makes no difference; they are all gound wires. BUT only one wire completes the connection and that is the problem. Really good engineering Chevy! The location is under left rear of bed in wiring harness right before the split. The connector is blue or green. Take the cover off to see the metal shorting clip. Also note the ground wire coming out of the plug/connector and runs about 8 inches to frame. If this is not hooked up you will have tail light issues. If you register on Autozone .com you can access wiring schematics for free. BL

    Dec 15, 2008 | 1993 Chevrolet S-10

    3 Answers

    No power to fuel pump.


    Tested grey wire again but this time used the frame as my ground, had power now. Traced ground wire. My son did not put back on driver side rear bolt that it came off of. Wa La problem fixed. I have heard that sometimes this wire goes bad so if it is still connected you might have to splice in a new one.

    Jul 23, 2008 | 1999 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

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