Question about Ford Ranger

Open Question

How to repair obd1 code 327 92 ranger 2.3l

Tested koeo-327 cm-327, koer-327, new egr valve, position sensor, and 02 sensor. Truck runs great, but cel is on.

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

emissionwiz
  • 75797 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 Ford Bronco 172 EGO not switching lean bank1- jerks when run

Have u checked for vacuum leaks or poss leaking EGR valve? use carb spray around the upper intake manifold where it bolts to the lower manifold, spray vacuum lines where they are connected to the engine vacuum ports, the idle speed will change if u hit a leak, as far as the EGR valve goes see if it gets hot at idle, if it does it is leaking, if all checks ok replace the O2 sensor, but i suspect u will find a leak at the upper intake plenum.

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

freetek
  • 5568 Answers

SOURCE: power loss

Can't answer your last question but catalytic convertors that are just not working anymore won't cause any loss of power. However, if they have shattered inside (they are kind of a ceramic honeycomb) they can dump junk into the exhaust system that can eventually clog your muffler or resonator.
Checking whether this has happened isn't difficult; after the warm up of the engine, either you or a helper needs to listen to the exhaust note. If firing of the cylinders is still distinct, the system isn't clogged with shrapnel; if it seems to hiss at higher RPMs, it is likely clogged.
This effect is easy to miss; I've had two failures and when cold, the engine would pull fine because the chunks of ceramic would fall to the bottom of the muffler and glue together somewhat. Once hot and agitated, they would clog the muffler and cause a severe loss of power but the idle would be OK. A hill that I would normally pull at 70 MPH, I couldn't top at all; had to sit and wait for things to cool down before proceeding.
It also seems some engines appreciate a bit of back-pressure in the exhaust system because the car gained in mileage and pulling power for several thousand miles before the clog became critical causing the mileage to fall sharply along with the power.  

Posted on May 23, 2009

  • 412 Answers

SOURCE: Error Code 406 EGR Positions Sensor

yes it is..you need to replace egr valve assembly..make sure you disconnect battery while replacing..some times fault will return even after replacing valve..

Posted on May 23, 2009

csmock132
  • 4669 Answers

SOURCE: Mustang, 1992 2.3L dual point OBD 1 error codes problem

Have you checked for spark on all 8 plugs? Unplug the exhaust side coil pack and run the engine. Does it run on all 4 cylinders?

Posted on May 27, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: EGR Valve, O2 Sensor

Absolutely a bad o2 sensor can cause problems with performance. If you replace one it is highly recommended to replace both or all four depending on your vehicle. If one o2 sensor is making your vehicle run rich you will burn more fuel and in return increase the amount of carbon or unburnt fuel if you will in your egr valve you could probably get away with cleaning it but I would recommend replacing it, it will save you from having to pull it off again. Check your catyletic converter because long exposure to carbon will mess it up.

Posted on Jun 06, 2009

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

I have a 93 F350 5.8 with a code 327


you could try to remove the EEC and inspect the pc board for leaking capacitors i hope it helps

Nov 16, 2013 | 1993 Ford F350

1 Answer

1993 Ford F350 code 327


have you removed the egr and checked for plugged in the egr port or damage to the egr itself... i think it's more of a flow issue associated with the position of the egr and not the solenoid itself... koeo/koer tests are a pain even with a break out box... good luck as this year (early 90's) of Ford's are the worst for diagnosing computer/running issues

Nov 16, 2013 | 1993 Ford F350

1 Answer

1993 ford ranger. the truck will not start. I ran a koeo scan and got the following codes: 116,114, 513, 542. Im thinking my truck uses 3 digit codes not real sure. if not i would have the following 2...


i am adding the codes for you it looks like you may have some wiring problems or a faulty PCM be sure you check the power and ground circuits before you start replacing parts a short in a circuit could damage the new part 11 O,C,R Pass (separator code)14 C Profile Ignition Pick-up circuit fault 61 O,C Coolant Temperature sensor circuit grounded 51 O,C Coolant Temperature sensor circuit open 35 O,C,R EGR Valve Pressure Transducer/Position Sensor voltage out of range (high) 42 R Heated Oxygen Sensor circuit indicates system rich, right side THE THREE DIGIT CODES ARE THE SAME CODES JUST IN A OBDII FORMAT (for a different type of scantool)

Jan 02, 2013 | Plymouth Reliant Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 1991 F-150. Runs great but wants to shutoof at stop signs and when you out it in gear sometimes. Any suggestions on the problem? Maybe the TPS?


the first check you should do to solve this issue is a KOER and KOEO. More commonly known as "pulling codes". I have linked the instructions on how to "pull codes". In a nut-shell you need to use a length of wire or paperclip to "ground" a pin on your self test connector (under the hood, driver side). Then, you get in the truck and turn on the key and count the blinks of the check engine light (CEL). This is called a KOEO (key on, engine off) test. For the KOER (key on, engine running) you will need to warm the vehicle to operating temperature then go through series of "press the brake, turn the wheel, press the OD switch etc..." and it will test all of your sensors. Then, it will blink some codes at you once this process is complete. It might be annoying at first, until you get the steps memorized. However, once you've figured out how it works--it'll be a life-saver. Don't replace a component without out doing a KOEO or KOER, first; or your just wasting money. Hope this helps

http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13

Jan 19, 2012 | 1991 Ford F150

1 Answer

91 ford f-150 5.0 l has irregular idle and around 1500 rpm when driving it it start to lose power like its choking and drops to about 1000 rpms


the first check you should do to solve this issue is a KOER and KOEO. More commonly known as "pulling codes". I have linked the instructions on how to "pull codes". In a nut-shell you need to use a length of wire or paperclip to "ground" a pin on your self test connector (under the hood, driver side). Then, you get in the truck and turn on the key and count the blinks of the check engine light (CEL). This is called a KOEO (key on, engine off) test. For the KOER (key on, engine running) you will need to warm the vehicle to operating temperature then go through series of "press the brake, turn the wheel, press the OD switch etc..." and it will test all of your sensors. Then, it will blink some codes at you once this process is complete. It might be annoying at first, until you get the steps memorized. However, once you've figured out how it works--it'll be a life-saver. Don't replace a component without out doing a KOEO or KOER, first; or your just wasting money. Hope this helps

http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13

Jan 02, 2012 | 1991 Ford F150

1 Answer

Hard to start when cold, then surges at ideal.


the first check you should do to solve this issue is a KOER and KOEO. More commonly known as "pulling codes". I have linked the instructions on how to "pull codes". In a nut-shell you need to use a length of wire or paperclip to "ground" a pin on your self test connector (under the hood, driver side). Then, you get in the truck and turn on the key and count the blinks of the check engine light (CEL). This is called a KOEO (key on, engine off) test. For the KOER (key on, engine running) you will need to warm the vehicle to operating temperature then go through series of "press the brake, turn the wheel, press the OD switch etc..." and it will test all of your sensors. Then, it will blink some codes at you once this process is complete. It might be annoying at first, until you get the steps memorized. However, once you've figured out how it works--it'll be a life-saver. Don't replace a component without out doing a KOEO or KOER, first; or your just wasting money. If you have no codes, then I would start by replacing plugs, wires, distributor cap and coil.

http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13

Jan 02, 2012 | 1991 Ford F150

1 Answer

Change distr.cap rot. and plugs and wires still has slight miss but not all the time...


the first check you should do to solve this issue is a KOER and KOEO. More commonly known as "pulling codes". I have linked the instructions on how to "pull codes". In a nut-shell you need to use a length of wire or paperclip to "ground" a pin on your self test connector (under the hood, driver side). Then, you get in the truck and turn on the key and count the blinks of the check engine light (CEL). This is called a KOEO (key on, engine off) test. For the KOER (key on, engine running) you will need to warm the vehicle to operating temperature then go through series of "press the brake, turn the wheel, press the OD switch etc..." and it will test all of your sensors. Then, it will blink some codes at you once this process is complete. It might be annoying at first, until you get the steps memorized. However, once you've figured out how it works--it'll be a life-saver. Don't replace a component without out doing a KOEO or KOER, first; or your just wasting money. Hope this helps

http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13

Dec 21, 2011 | 1991 Ford F150

2 Answers

Check engine light on


Diagnostic Trouble Codes OBD1
Mazda 02 Crank Position Sensor (NE Signal). 03 Cam Position Sensor (SGC Signal). 05 Knock Sensor. 08 Air Flow Sensor. 09 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. 10 Intake Air Temp. Sensor (Air Flow Sensor). 12 Throttle Position Sensor. 14 Barometric Absolute Press. Sensor. 15
and/or
23 Heated Oxygen Sensor (Inactivation). 16 EGR Function Sensor. 25 Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid Valve. 26 Purge Control Solenoid Valve. 28 EGR Vacuum Solenoid Valve. 29 EGR Vent Solenoid Valve. 34 Idle Air Control Valve. 41 VRIS 1 Solenoid Valve. 46 VRIS 2 Solenoid Valve.

Jul 12, 2010 | Mazda 626 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1989 Ford Bronco with Check Engine Light


Most manuals will tell you that a flashing CEL idicates a condition that as harmful to the cat converter on some late model vehicles it will put them into "limp in" mode.I don't think there is a position sensor for the EGR(I could be wrong),the egr is normally electrically triggered but is run off of vacuum(check your hoses).
Most likely, if you are losing milage I would check the O2 sensors on live data to see if they are functioning properly, also check the data on the engine temp sensor(not the one for the dash gauge).this kind of works like a choke if it doesn't work the comuputer treats it like a COLD engine,which in turn will over fuel the engine hence the damage to the cat.I will see if I can get more info on your codes

Mar 23, 2009 | 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix

2 Answers

High idle when warm


sounds like the throttle posititon sensor

Oct 19, 2008 | 1991 Ford F150

Not finding what you are looking for?
Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

185 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Ford Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

75797 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22114 Answers

fordexpert

Level 3 Expert

5495 Answers

Are you a Ford Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...