Question about Ford F-350

1 Answer

Why did my engine stop accelerating just stay at idle

I was going about 60 mph. slowed down to turn right and it stayed at idle . will not acceleratE changed the throttle sensor checked fuses fuel filter oil air and still the same. Starts fine , stays at idle when press pedal stays at idle

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Sergeant:

    An expert that has over 500 points.

  • Expert
  • 206 Answers

Your accelerator pedal is bad. The IVS (Idle Validation Switch) is probably not shutting off, or the potentiometer in the pedal went bad.
Hopefully you do not have adjustable pedals as the pedal assy. can be expensive for those.

Posted on Oct 26, 2012

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

emissionwiz
  • 75797 Answers

SOURCE: 99 Dodge Durango Dies When Slowing

Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls and low idle rough idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve (IAC for short), they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

Posted on Feb 09, 2009

landsend
  • 1066 Answers

SOURCE: high idle will not lower

sounds like you have something blocking the linkage or the throttle body isn't closing totally or you have a air leak.

Posted on Apr 01, 2009

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: Car dies at random moments

I just had this problem and replaced the camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, and coolant temp sensor. i replaced these items because of high mileage. try these but first check your relays located under the hood on the passenger side. sometimes they get hot and fail.

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: 89 olds cutlass ciera bogging down when accelerating.

my 89 cutlass did the same thing....She would bog down ( when the service engine light came on)....Light would go off and she would run fine...Shop replaced fuel fiter and KNOCK SENSOR, runs great now, the service engine light stays off too. Ran a can of MG injector cleaner thru too.

Posted on Oct 15, 2009

  • 1146 Answers

SOURCE: 1994 honda civic 1.5 16v stalling after pressing accelerator from idle

Another place to look is your IAC, or Idle air control valve. It is bolted to the back of the intake manifold, and can be removed and cleaned. It is usually the cause of most Honda Idle problems.

Posted on Apr 18, 2010

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

I ask a question on what is the drive cycle to reset obd for toyota2005 rav4


Step One: How to Prepare Your Vehicle
  • Have the fuel tank between 30 and 70 percent full. Some systems, especially the EVAP system, need to have a specific level of fuel in order for the tests to be trusted. If the fuel tank is near empty or completely full, many of the basic tests will not run at all.
  • The vehicle must also have a good alternator and a strong battery. If you have to occasionally jump-start your vehicle, all of the memory from the powertrain control module (PCM) is erased, which includes the data that accurately tracks the results from various stages of the Drive Cycle. Also, if the battery is weak or undercharged, some of the most important tests will never run.
  • The vehicle must sit overnight, or for at least eight hours, in an environment that is less than 90° F. The engine temperature needs to match the air temperature in order to establish an accurate baseline for the testing. If the outside temperature is over 90° F, the fuel is too volatile and the EVAP system won't even try to run its tests, though some of the other emissions systems may run their tests.
  • The keys must be out of the ignition and all of the doors must be closed while the vehicle sits over night because many of the onboard computers "boot up" when the keys are in the ignition. Also, many of the onboard computers still run until all of the doors are closed after the vehicle is shut off and the keys are removed.
Step Two: The Cold Start
  • Start the vehicle and let it idle for two to three minutes in Park or Neutral. While it is idling, turn on the head lights, heater/defroster, and rear defroster for a three to five minute warm-up phase. Let the idle speed settle down to near the normal speed.
  • Next, put the vehicle in gear and drive through city streets at about 25 mph. Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times before slowing down to stop. Don't roll through the stop; be sure the car is really stopped, just like you learned in driving school. Accelerate from each stop in a normal fashion-not overly conservative, but not like you are competing in a drag race either.
Step Three: A Short Freeway Trip
  • After the vehicle has been cold started and driven for a few miles on city streets, the next step is to take it on a short freeway trip.
  • Enter the freeway on-ramp and allow enough room with respect to other vehicles so that you can do a 1/2 to 3/4 throttle acceleration up to freeway speed.
  • When you have accelerated up to around 60 mph and have safely merged into the flow of traffic, stay in the slow lane and maintain a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for a minimum of five miles. Please use the cruise control to help you maintain speed.
  • Find a nice, long off ramp to exit from the freeway. As you exit, take your foot off of the accelerator and let the vehicle coast down until it stops under its own power as you complete your exit from the freeway. Do not use the foot brake and do not shift gears until the very end of this "coast down" phase.
  • Step Four: More City Driving
    • After you have completed the freeway trip, drive through the city streets for a repeat of the second part of Step Two.
    • Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times and then maintain a city speed of 25 mph before slowing down to stop. Again, don't roll through the stop and make sure to accelerate normally.
    • Pull in to a parking place and let the engine idle for one to two minutes and then shut it off.
    Step Five: Have your Readiness Monitors Checked and Verified
    • Drive your vehicle to your regular shop and have them re-check your readiness monitors, present codes, and pending codes. They should do this as a courtesy and for free.
    • If all of your monitors are "ready" and there are no present or pending codes, then your vehicle has been properly repaired and is ready for an emissions inspection and for normal driving.

Feb 21, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What is the drive cycle for a 2003 Nissan Sentra SE?


Take extra caution while performing dirve cycles on public roadways. Drive cycles can be difficult to follow under normal driving conditions. Begin by: - Start the engine. Idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on. - Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. - Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes. - Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. - Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle. - Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. - Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. If all other emissions systems are functioning properly, completing the drive cycle above will set the "readiness flags" required to pass the smog check. It will not hurt to perform the drive cycle 2 or 3 times before the smog test.

Oct 06, 2016 | 2003 Nissan Sentra

1 Answer

How to do the drive cycle of a 1996 Nissan pathfinder


How to Perform a Basic Drive Cycle


Step One: How to Prepare Your Vehicle

  • Have the fuel tank between 30 and 70 percent full. Some systems, especially the EVAP system, need to have a specific level of fuel in order for the tests to be trusted. If the fuel tank is near empty or completely full, many of the basic tests will not run at all.
  • The vehicle must also have a good alternator and a strong battery. If you have to occasionally jump-start your vehicle, all of the memory from the powertrain control module (PCM) is erased, which includes the data that accurately tracks the results from various stages of the Drive Cycle. Also, if the battery is weak or undercharged, some of the most important tests will never run.
  • The vehicle must sit overnight, or for at least eight hours, in an environment that is less than 90° F. The engine temperature needs to match the air temperature in order to establish an accurate baseline for the testing. If the outside temperature is over 90° F, the fuel is too volatile and the EVAP system won't even try to run its tests, though some of the other emissions systems may run their tests.
  • The keys must be out of the ignition and all of the doors must be closed while the vehicle sits over night because many of the onboard computers "boot up" when the keys are in the ignition. Also, many of the onboard computers still run until all of the doors are closed after the vehicle is shut off and the keys are removed.
Step Two: The Cold Start
  • Start the vehicle and let it idle for two to three minutes in Park or Neutral. While it is idling, turn on the head lights, heater/defroster, and rear defroster for a three to five minute warm-up phase. Let the idle speed settle down to near the normal speed.
  • Next, put the vehicle in gear and drive through city streets at about 25 mph. Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times before slowing down to stop. Don't roll through the stop; be sure the car is really stopped, just like you learned in driving school. Accelerate from each stop in a normal fashion-not overly conservative, but not like you are competing in a drag race either.
Step Three: A Short Freeway Trip
  • After the vehicle has been cold started and driven for a few miles on city streets, the next step is to take it on a short freeway trip.
  • Enter the freeway on-ramp and allow enough room with respect to other vehicles so that you can do a 1/2 to 3/4 throttle acceleration up to freeway speed.
  • When you have accelerated up to around 60 mph and have safely merged into the flow of traffic, stay in the slow lane and maintain a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for a minimum of five miles. Please use the cruise control to help you maintain speed.
  • Find a nice, long off ramp to exit from the freeway. As you exit, take your foot off of the accelerator and let the vehicle coast down until it stops under its own power as you complete your exit from the freeway. Do not use the foot brake and do not shift gears until the very end of this "coast down" phase.
Step Four: More City Driving
  • After you have completed the freeway trip, drive through the city streets for a repeat of the second part of Step Two.
  • Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times and then maintain a city speed of 25 mph before slowing down to stop. Again, don't roll through the stop and make sure to accelerate normally.
  • Pull in to a parking place and let the engine idle for one to two minutes and then shut it off.
Step Five: Wave your Readiness Monitors Checked and Verified
  • Drive your vehicle to your regular shop and have them re-check your readiness monitors, present codes, and pending codes. They should do this as a courtesy and for free.
  • If all of your monitors are "ready" and there are no present or pending codes, then your vehicle has been properly repaired and is ready for an emissions inspection and for normal driving.
  • If your monitors are not ready, please click here for more information.

May 26, 2016 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to do the drive cycle on a 1996 nissan pathfinder


How to Perform a Basic Drive Cycle


Step One: How to Prepare Your Vehicle

  • Have the fuel tank between 30 and 70 percent full. Some systems, especially the EVAP system, need to have a specific level of fuel in order for the tests to be trusted. If the fuel tank is near empty or completely full, many of the basic tests will not run at all.
  • The vehicle must also have a good alternator and a strong battery. If you have to occasionally jump-start your vehicle, all of the memory from the powertrain control module (PCM) is erased, which includes the data that accurately tracks the results from various stages of the Drive Cycle. Also, if the battery is weak or undercharged, some of the most important tests will never run.
  • The vehicle must sit overnight, or for at least eight hours, in an environment that is less than 90° F. The engine temperature needs to match the air temperature in order to establish an accurate baseline for the testing. If the outside temperature is over 90° F, the fuel is too volatile and the EVAP system won't even try to run its tests, though some of the other emissions systems may run their tests.
  • The keys must be out of the ignition and all of the doors must be closed while the vehicle sits over night because many of the onboard computers "boot up" when the keys are in the ignition. Also, many of the onboard computers still run until all of the doors are closed after the vehicle is shut off and the keys are removed.
Step Two: The Cold Start
  • Start the vehicle and let it idle for two to three minutes in Park or Neutral. While it is idling, turn on the head lights, heater/defroster, and rear defroster for a three to five minute warm-up phase. Let the idle speed settle down to near the normal speed.
  • Next, put the vehicle in gear and drive through city streets at about 25 mph. Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times before slowing down to stop. Don't roll through the stop; be sure the car is really stopped, just like you learned in driving school. Accelerate from each stop in a normal fashion-not overly conservative, but not like you are competing in a drag race either.
Step Three: A Short Freeway Trip
  • After the vehicle has been cold started and driven for a few miles on city streets, the next step is to take it on a short freeway trip.
  • Enter the freeway on-ramp and allow enough room with respect to other vehicles so that you can do a 1/2 to 3/4 throttle acceleration up to freeway speed.
  • When you have accelerated up to around 60 mph and have safely merged into the flow of traffic, stay in the slow lane and maintain a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for a minimum of five miles. Please use the cruise control to help you maintain speed.
  • Find a nice, long off ramp to exit from the freeway. As you exit, take your foot off of the accelerator and let the vehicle coast down until it stops under its own power as you complete your exit from the freeway. Do not use the foot brake and do not shift gears until the very end of this "coast down" phase.
Step Four: More City Driving
  • After you have completed the freeway trip, drive through the city streets for a repeat of the second part of Step Two.
  • Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times and then maintain a city speed of 25 mph before slowing down to stop. Again, don't roll through the stop and make sure to accelerate normally.
  • Pull in to a parking place and let the engine idle for one to two minutes and then shut it off.
Step Five: Wave your Readiness Monitors Checked and Verified
  • Drive your vehicle to your regular shop and have them re-check your readiness monitors, present codes, and pending codes. They should do this as a courtesy and for free.
  • If all of your monitors are "ready" and there are no present or pending codes, then your vehicle has been properly repaired and is ready for an emissions inspection and for normal driving.
  • If your monitors are not ready, please click here for more information.

May 26, 2016 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Motor hesitates & bucks after slowing down & then re-accelerating


HMM, it has been awhile since ive worked on that toyota motor. Check for vacuum leaks on hoses and the intake manifold. Check egr system for a dirty pintle leaving the egr stuck open. It will cause bad acceleration and idle quality. A properly closed egr cannot be blown through to the opposite port. Check for a clean throttle plate, if it is not, clean it. If it is a fuel injected engine check for bad fuel injector o rings for wear, if they leak they cause fuel burning and idle problems.

Feb 09, 2016 | 1990 Toyota Pickup

1 Answer

Car hessitates


Check coolant temp sensor if car runs okay after first start up. If it does not run OK after getting engine warm, probably idle air control valve.

Dec 11, 2013 | 2001 Chevrolet Impala

1 Answer

95 Isuzu pickup won't accelerate at all, it bogs and dies, What could it be?


sounds like a crank sensor problem, or cheap fuel and engine in "get home mode"

Nov 12, 2013 | 2005 Scion tC

1 Answer

04 saturn L300


Next time the engine light comes on, get the codes pulled and get back to me

Apr 15, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

04 saturn L300 acceleration dies


run the fault codes first to check for faulty sensors
what you describe indicates a problem in the exhaust in that when the exhaust gas volume reaches a certain level the sensors are reporting it and the ECM is not able to fix it
have an accredited exhaust shop check the cat converter
for failure and partially blocking the exhaust at speed
if it was a fuel pump you would run into problems long before the speed at which it occurs
AT best it could be an EVAP problem with the vent not working properly but I think that it is exhaust related

Apr 30, 2017 | 2004 Saturn L-Series

1 Answer

Car accelerates without pressing gas pedal


I had a similar problem with a K5 Blazer, where the gas pedal had a plastic pivot point in the linkage. After about 60K miles, the pivot developed a burr that locked the gas pedal open and kept the vehicle about 60 MPH. If I kicked the pedal to knock it off the burr, it would then slow down. Try it...

Feb 24, 2009 | 2001 Buick Regal

Not finding what you are looking for?
Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

298 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Ford Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

75797 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22114 Answers

fordexpert

Level 3 Expert

5495 Answers

Are you a Ford Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...