Question about 1997 Nissan Maxima
If the radiator fluid spills out, then your test was not accurate. A radiator pressure test would certainly cause the fluid to leak during testing. If you had this tested at a garage, I would recommend returning there for a retest, as they didn't diagnose it correctly.
The other problems you mention can be caused by a few different things, but taking care of the problem you can clearly see should probably come first. If you have it checked at a garage that has not previously worked on your vehicle, be sure to tell them the recent work you have had done.
If you tested this yourself, ensure that the pressure tester is making a proper seal on the radiator cap nozzle and try to retest it. If it is pouring out as you say, the leak should be fairly easy to generally isolate, though if it is behind something, it may be difficult to completely pinpoint.
Posted on Oct 26, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Hello, I own a 2000
Sounds like a blown head gasket from multiple overheatings. Parts retailers have a chemical that can determine this. To use it the coolant level in the radiator needs to be a little low so no coolant will be pulled into chemical container. Engine needs to be at operating temperature. The containter is pushed onto radiator cap opening and bulb squeezed numerours times for about 2 minutes. If the chemical changes from blue to yellow (or green depending on manufacturer) then the head gasket is blown or head has warped (or both).
Posted on May 03, 2009
SOURCE: Radiator leak
it will not cause the radiator to explode but it can cause the car to overheat. just keep checking the antifreeze level before you take off and add some if below the cold mark. fill to the cold mark and you should be fine till you can afford a new radiator if you have a salvage yard around you check there for a good used one it will be alot cheaper
Posted on Feb 18, 2009
You need to replace the condensor, then take it to a shop to have the a/c system evacuated and recharged to purge moisture because the system was opened. That will cost around $150. You do not need to replace the receiver/dryer/suction accumulator even though they will tell you that you do.
go to car-part.com to find prices of condensor from salvage yards. Page with asterisk on it is the lowest priced part.
The Refrigerant Cycle
During stabilized conditions (air conditioning system shutdown), the refrigerant is in a vaporized state and pressures are equal throughout the system. When the A/C compressor (19703) is in operation it increases pressure on the refrigerant vapor, raising its temperature. The high-pressure and high-temperature vapor is then released into the top of the A/C condenser core (19712).
The A/C condenser core, being close to ambient temperature, causes the refrigerant vapor to condense into a liquid when heat is removed from the refrigerant by ambient air passing over the fins and tubing. The now liquid refrigerant, still at high pressure, exits from the bottom of the A/C condenser core and enters the inlet side of the A/C evaporator core orifice (19D990).
The A/C evaporator core orifice is the restriction in the refrigerant system that creates the high pressure buildup in the A/C evaporator core (19860) and separates the high and low pressure sides of the A/C system. As the liquid refrigerant leaves this restriction, its pressure and boiling point are reduced.
The liquid refrigerant is now at its lowest pressure and temperature. As it passes through the A/C evaporator core, it absorbs heat from the passenger compartment airflow passing over the plate/fin sections of the A/C evaporator core. This addition of heat causes the refrigerant to boil (convert to gas). The now cooler passenger compartment air can no longer support the same humidity level of the warmer air and this excess moisture condenses on the exterior of the evaporator coils and fins and drains outside the vehicle.
The suction accumulator/drier (19C836) is designed to remove moisture from the refrigerant and to prevent any liquid refrigerant that may not have been vaporized in the A/C evaporator core from reaching the A/C compressor. The A/C compressor is designed to pump refrigerant vapor only, as liquid refrigerant will not compress and can damage the A/C compressor.
The refrigerant cycle is now repeated with the A/C compressor again increasing the pressure and temperature of the refrigerant.
The A/C cycling switch (19E561) interrupts compressor operation before the external temperature of the A/C evaporator core gets low enough to cause the condensed water vapor (excess humidity) to turn to ice. It does this by monitoring low side line pressure. It is known that a refrigerant pressure of approximately 210 kPa (30 psi) will yield an operating temperature of 0°C (32°F). The A/C cycling switch controls system operation in an effort to maintain this temperature.
The high side line pressure is also monitored so that A/C compressor operation can be interrupted if system pressure becomes too high.
The A/C compressor pressure relief valve (19D644) will open and vent refrigerant to relieve unusually high system pressure.
Clutch Cycling Orifice Tube Type Refrigerant System
Item Part Number Description 1 19E762 A/C charge valve port (low side) 2 19E561 A/C cycling switch 3 19C836 Suction accumulator/drier 4 19703 A/C compressor 5 19D644 A/C compressor pressure relief valve 6 19D594 A/C pressure cut-off switch 7 19E762 A/C charge valve port (high side) 8 19712 A/C condenser core 9 19D990 A/C evaporator core orifice 10 19860 A/C evaporator core 11 — Low pressure vapor 12 — High pressure vapor 13 — Low pressure liquid 14 — High pressure liquid
Posted on May 14, 2009
I've just had an ongoing problem with my 1990 Pulsar overheating.
Mechanics checked everything: electric fan, airlocks, leaks, etc
Car continued overheating intermittently for months - finally the mechanic put a non standard thermostat in, one which activates at a slightly lower temp that stock.
Problem is now resolved.
Hope this helps,
Posted on Jul 22, 2009
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