Question about Toyota Camry
Air conditioner doesnt work radiator fans not working
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Radiator fan
You should check the 30 amp "RDI" fuse and the 7.5 ECU-IG fuse. Both fuses are critical to the operation of the fan system. The RDI fuse sends power to the fan #1 relay. The A/C amplifier turns on power to the fan #1 relay, this is why your fan works on A/C.
Now, with no cooling fan under "normal conditions" (A/C off), you need to have a good fan #2 relay, and a good water temp switch. This switch is on the engine, near the thermostat housing (I think); with a single plug, with a white with a blue trace wire going to it. Remove this wire from the sender, and jump it to ground (anywhere on the metal of the engine) with the key on (engine OFF). If the fan starts, you need a new water temp sending unit. If not, then consider a new fan #2 relay. This system is pretty simple.
Posted on Sep 24, 2008
The Normal Temperature Range to the Fan Start is: A/C ON 181 F.
A/C OFF 199 F. When the Engine Reach this Temperature the Fan should start.
OK. Do this simple test.
1---- Start the engine, Desconnect the ECT Switch located on the Radiator,
See if the Fan come ON. If yes, if not go to step #2
Connect the ECT SWITCH and leave the car Running and with a Temperature gage.
See the temperature, if the Temperature go more than 199 F.
Turn the Engine OFF.
Disconnect the ECT sensor and check for Ground at the WHITE/BLACK wire.
If ground exist, Replace the ECT switch.
But if not. Check the wire for any damaged, and the ground at the Front Left Fender.
Repair as need.
2---- check the Fuse link RDI FAN . 30 amp.
Check the Fuse link CDS FAN 30 amp.
Replace if need.
And Return to step # 1.
Check the Radiator fan Relay, Rad fan relay 2 and 3. Replace if need.
Ok. I hope this help on your question.
I can give to you the WIRING DIAGRAM of the Fans, But I need a E-MAIL adress to do that.
Thank you for use fixya....
Posted on Sep 25, 2008
there are actually 3 temp sensors. 1 is on the top of the engine that goes to temp gauge in dash has 1 wire. next to it is a 3 wire sensor for engine control and choke. on the bottom of the radiator next to the hose is a 2 wire sensor. loosen all 3 but leave connected. get engine hot past halfway point on dash gauge. with ac off disconnect 1 sensor at time. start with 2 wire under radiator. it takes the most abuse. fan will come on when you disconnect broken sensor. 2sensor must agree for fan to stay on till engine cools when turned off. note this is solution i used after verifying fuses, fuseable links and relays worked.WOO HOO! make sure you check both the fuse box under hood and fuse boxleft side of steering wheel my ECU fuse was inside my bros was outside.ECU B on my car goes to nothing and is under hood. Had it confused with ECU on wiring diagram.DOH!
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
Firstly, ensure you have the required 'mixture' of coolant/water (must have required coolant).
Second, I would recommend you re-test all the cooling system sensors again (make sure they're within specifications), in case a new one is faulty.
Third, ensure the new thermostat was of the correct temp setting (they all differ), so that it opens at the required time. Most cooling systems operate within 90 - 100degC.
Fourth, make sure the radiator (and associated hoses) aren't blocked.
If your temp gauge is reading higher than normal, but NOT in the danger zone...then this can be considered normal (especially if you've replaced with new components) and nothing to be concerned about.
However, if the temp gauge IS in the danger zone....then this suggests the coolant is not flowing through the cooling system properly.
If all above components test ok, then it's possible your water pump may not be pumping enough volume.
Posted on Aug 16, 2009
Testimonial: "I appreciate your help...Maybe I should just relace the water pump, that would be the last thing that I would need to replace."
Do you mean P0446 since I'm guessing you removed the P and 0 from the beginning.
This is related to your Fuel system
Your gas cap may not have been tightened fully (this usually generates a different code though)
Your purge solenoid may be malfunctioning
Your canister may be clogged
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
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