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Hi Gavin, You can drive it until it's almost empty, try putting a hose down the fuel tank pipe and siphon the fuel out OR remove the tank.. I hope this helped mate......CHEERS
Just follow the procedure in the right order. Fill the clutch reservoir on the master cylinder to the max and leave the lid loose. Fit a transparent plastic pipe on the bleed nipple on the clutch slave cylinder bleed nipple. Put the other end of the pipe into a jar to catch the waste fluid. Put some thick grease around the base threads of the bleed nipple, this stops air being sucked in via the threads whne the nipple is slackened off. Loosen the bleed nipple by 1/3 of a turn. Have your mate slowly depress the clutch peddle. When he has reached maximum travel have him hold it there while you turn the bleed nipple a third turn back to tight. Have your mate release the clutch peddle, clutch fluid from the master reservoir should now fill the the master cylinder. Have you mate press the peddle a quarter way and then release the bleed nipple a 1/3 of a turn. Have your mate depress the clutch peddle all the way to maximum travel. Again tighten off the bleed nipple before releasing the clutch peddle. Keep doing this process until no more air bubbles can be seen in the fluid in the pipe attached to the bled nipple. Every four cycles or so check on the fluid level in the master reservoir and keep topped up with fresh fluid. When everything completed tighten the bleed nipple, it is not necessary to tighten the hell out of it as at some point you may need to do this again. Wipe everything down pump the clutch peddle a few times to be sure of correct operation and no leaks.
If your transmission pan does not have a drain plug - most factory installed pans do not - then you need to put a large collection system in place to catch the transmission fluid for proper disposal. ( pan or bucket - this can get messy) Remove the bolts from the pan leaving a few on one side in place and loosened only so that the fluid spills out over the opposite side of the pan into the collection system. Slowly remove the remaining bolts being careful not to spill the remaining fluid. Might be a good time to put in a drain plug if not already there and the trany filter as well. Clean both mating surfaces and replace gasket and bolts. Be sure to refill with the recommended fluid. I am assuming that you would have the vehicle raised and properly secured (jack stands) before going under the vehicle. Let me know if this helps. Thanks.
exactly the way you take it out! here`s a tutorial about HOW to get it out with photos so u can guide yourself to put it back on. hope it helps. cheers mate
Early FJs had a fuel sender with an ohm range of 2.1ohms when full, to 4.5 when half full, to 6.5ohms when empty. Some may range from 33-240 ohms. You should use a VOM (ohm-meter setting) to measure this resistance value at full, empty and half-full positions. Then you will know what gauge to purchase!!! Hope this helps, thanks for using Fixya.com to help solve your issue. Tater Todd
the fluid is going somewhere of course but your clutch lines do not run into the transmission itself it runs to a slave cyclinder that should be on the side of your transmission most likely where you seen that bleeder valve at normally if you can put fluid in the master cyclinder and you can shift gears fine it is your slave cyclinder that is going out if this is so all you have to do is unbolt it from the side of the tranny and replace it. It should only have 2 bolts, 1 line, and a rubber grommet on one end with a rod in it if you take it off just put the new one on the same way just in reverse order. hope every thing goes well.
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