89 Chevy C1500 4.3L engine won't start after rebuild
I rebuilt the engine in my truck. It started right up after instalation, had to turn the distributor slightly to smooth idle. It was idling nice, I left it run for about ten to fifteen minutes before I shut it off. When I tried to restart it, it would not start. I have good spark and fuel and it turns over, but it just won't start. Can anyone help?
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Oil? Fuel? Bearings installed properly with clearance checked? Followed all the rebuild instructions to the T. All sensors working properly? Any codes from the ECU? What was the engine doing before the rebuild? Why was it rebuilt? All factors that may influence the current crisis.
yes, my idea is that you should get to a transmission shop, it is long overdue for a rebuild. you can find them in the yellow pages. you can rebuild it, or swap for another already rebuilt, lucky for you it is old enough that the ****** can be replaced without pulling the engine. on a car that old i would bypass any used transmission install idea unless you want to do it again real soon.
no the fact that your alternator went out and now your transmission is due to the age of the car, not all things which are contiguous in time are causally related. once a car hits 10, things start to go bad one after another which is why just about all the other 93 chevy trucks long ago met the metal crusher
You might try to richen that carb intake a bit. You might want to spray some intake cleaner in the intake as well and make sure to get some of the gunk out of there. I would add a fuel system cleaner in the tank as well but a rebuild will net the best results.
The problem is in your carburator. Was it rebuilt in a shop or by yourself or a friend?Did they know what it was going on? It could be that the float level is too low. It could be that you have the plunger rod for the power valve in the wrong hole. It could be that you just need to adjust the mixture screws on the front. I would start with the mixture screws. Turn them in until they seat but don't force them,be gentle. Turn them out 1 and 1/4 turns each and start from there. You will have to turn each one separately from here.Set your curb idle about 500 RPM and turn 1 screw out until you hear the idle start to go up and then back it off until it starts to falter or miss, them come ahead just enough to bring the engine out of that. Then do the same with the other screw. Reset your idle and rev the engine by hand, a couple of cracks and then crack the 4 barrels open and let go. If it stalls then open the idle screws about 1/8 turn and try again. When the engine will return to idle off the 4 barrels without stalling your mixture screws are set right. Make sure you keep resetting the curb idle, usually 500RPM for a standard and 750 RPM for an automatic.
If you rebuilt the carb yourself then look on the rebuild sheet that came with the kit for your engine application and make sure you have the power rod in the right hole and that you have the correct float level. Different applications have different float levels even with the same size engine. Set them for the engine you have it on, if the carb came off something else. Hope this helps.
It's not worth doing all that conversion, buy the time you spend the time and money to convert the 89 4.3 to work on the 98 blazer, it would be cheaper to install a 98 vortec rebuild. The 89 4.3 have a TBI fuel injection system and the ecm on the 98 will not work and the bad news is that the ecm on the 98 also controls the transmission shift points and the 89 will not, so even if you swap the ecm to have the 89 4.3 engine work. the transmission will not shift.
Sorry for the bad news but it would be cheaper to replace the 98 engine with the years of 1996 to 2001. Good luck and hope this helps.
Are you sure that your timing is set right. This will make it sound like this, also if the valves are not adjusted right will make alot of noise. The person who rebuilt the motor should stand behind his/her work!!!???