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Battery light comes on while driving

Battery light comes on after driving about five minutes. Any time I pull up somewhere to get it fixed, they can't find the problem. How can I test something that only happens when I'm moving?

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  • Honda Master
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If the battery light comes on its the alternator or power relay any good garage will be able to tell if its goosed or not hope this helps ivan

Posted on Oct 25, 2012

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ignition module

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sounds like what my Ford Bronco has done,is your air bag light on?The beep 5 times in my truck was the module for the air bag,i

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SOURCE: 1989 Olds Ninty Eight. Pulled codes 26, 27, 28,

Check number on ECM if it has the number 1228253 replace it because they will give a stalling problem.

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you need a scan tool. go to auto zone they will do it @ no charge good luck.

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SOURCE: 2000 dodge intrepid stalls while

Locate your relays that has to do with the fuel pump and starters. When this happens again, take a screwdriver handle and tap on them lightly, so that you don't break them. If the vehicle starts remember the one that you taped on, and you can replace it. If this doesn't solve the problem, consider replacing the PCM. It is a last resort since it is very difficult to diagnose the PCM if it is at fault since it has to be tested at the time that it is failing and since it is intermitant; that would be a challenge.

Posted on May 12, 2011

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Why do the break light and battery light come on at the same time. Then after driving for a while they turn off.


You may have a crossed wires in the wiring harness when applying the brakes. This may create a high current drain on the battery, then the battery light comes on. The alternator recharges the battery and the battery light goes off. I would not worry about it until the battery light stays on all the time. Then you will have to get it fixed very soon or you will end up stranded somewhere.

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Are you able to drive on it even when the check engine fault light comes on?


Yes you can, but depending on the issue it's not always a good idea.

The Check Engine Light (often called "CEL") means there's something wrong that affects emissions, so it can be something as simple as a gas cap that isn't tight enough, to O2 sensors going back or vacuum leaks in the intake.

The BEST way is to find someone local or a dealer to use the VOlvo tool (VIDA software with the DiCE interface) to read out the actual codes the car is giving you. That will tell you what component has failed or needs work, and you can then start fixing.

If the car runs fine and doesn't stumble or otherwise act up, check the gas cap and if that ends up being the issue, it usually takes five drive cycles (ignition on, start engine, drive somewhere and no error) for the light to go out.

Otherwise you can disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable - there's a process, but basically, make sure the car is OFF (key out of ignition) for AT LEAST 10 minutes before disconnecting the battery! Then let it sit 30 minutes and reconnect it and see if the light comes back next time you drive it.

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I'm guessing you were doing arc welding as opposed to gas welding, right? Battery should be disconnected any time you're arc welding. Check the fusible link located somewhere along the positive battery cable (the positive cable may run to a battery junction box with up to five fusible link cables coming out of it). Check voltage from battery positive cable (cable connected) or continuity (cable disconnected) to downstream point beyond fusible link. Fusible links cannot be repaired - they must be replaced. Good luck.

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91 honda accord battery lamp comes on, my climate is cold now and this seemed to begin when the cold started, after driving 20 minutes or so the lamp goes out, when the car is cold, if i rev the engine to...


Chances are, your alternator is on its way out. I had a similar issue a couple years back where the battery light was coming on in winter at startup but would turn off after a couple of minutes of driving. I know it was not charging the battery when the light was on because my head lamps and dashboard lights were a little dimmer than normal. I decided to just put a new one in instead of possibly getting **** in the cold somewhere. If I remember correctly, the voltage regulator is built into the alternator. I was tinkering with idea of pulling it out and trying to fix it, but it's really not worth it. Now, if you don't notice your lights being a little bit dimmer when the battery light is on like I did, the issue could be your battery. It should have 13.5 volts on it. Or you can just take it in to some auto parts store to have it tested. They usually do that for free.

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The easiest way is to disconnect the battery for about five minutes. This will reset the computer and clear any codes. Once you connect the battery you need to take the car out for a drive and let the computer relearn your driving habits. It you have something wrong with the car the check engine light will come on again. You will need to get the error code and fix the problem for the light to stay off permanently. Most car parts places will check your computer for error codes free.

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reset the battery wait about five minutes before hooking it up...this is sounding like a computer problem.

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Not sure why yours lasted so long because I replaced the alternator in my '95 SL2 SIX (6) times before the engine self-destructed at 56,700 miles. They run hot because they receive little airflow where they are mounted and are physically too small to deliver the kind of power required of them.
Most chain auto parts stores will test your alternator free and I suggest you do that before growing more frustrated with it and possibly land in a dangerous situation caused by the failure of it.

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That means that the sensor must be replaced.

You can turn temporarily off the light by disconnecting battery for five minutes, but it will probably come back.

To fix it completely, take it to a garage and have the problem fixed.

Note: when you unplug battery you may be asked car radio security code afterward.

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