Question about 1996 GMC Jimmy

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1996 gmc jimmy loses power in 3rd gear

Has trouble on take of sometimes but mostly it is when it should switch to third gear it will jump up to 3500 rpms but still only wants to go 30 to 35 miles and hour.we found a small amount of water on the top of the head or intake manafold but have had no luck with how to get to get to see if that is what it is and was also wondering if you could help me know where to find the rocker arm on the front end

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  • GMC Master
  • 601 Answers

Failure to shift is almost always an internal transmission problem. For the water problem, probably a small leak in a cooling system hose or hose connector running near the intake manifold. The leak will probably only be found when the system is under pressure (i.e. engine hot and running).

Posted on Aug 03, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 98 gmc jimmy front hub

1. Put the vehicle in gear, apply the parking brake and break loose the driveaxle/hub nut with a socket and large breaker bar.
2. Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support is securely on lackstands. Remove the wheel. Remove the driveaxle/hub nut.
3. Unbolt the brake caliper and hang it out of the way with wire. Remove the brake disc.
4. On models with four wheel ABS, trace the electrical lead for the wheel speed sensor along the upper control arm, then forward along the frame rail and unplug the electrical connector.
5. Remove the hub assembly-to-steering knuckle bolts. Remove the brake disc shield and wheel speed sensor assembly and set aside.
6. Tap the hub assembly from side-to-side to break it loose from the steering knuckle. Pull the hub assembly off the end of the driveaxle. Wrap the end of the driveaxle with a rag to prevent damaging it. If the hub is stuck on the splines on the end of the driveaxle, use a puller to free it.
7. Installation is reverse of removal process. Be sure to lubricate the driveaxle splines with multi-purpose grease, and tighten all of the fasteners to the proper torque.

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

  • 179 Answers

SOURCE: AC trouble

the best way is to take it into an ac shop without a manifold gauge set adding freon is just a guess you have a leak because freon never wears out it just leaks out. also the right way to do it would require having your system vacuumed out for at least 30 min. to get out all the moisture and air.

Posted on Jul 18, 2009

canbruce75
  • 1776 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 jimmy gmc fuse box

Look on the driver's side fender well under the hood. Should be a long black rectangular box there. That is the power center or fuse block. The relays and fuses are inside. The top is not hard to remove. Hope this helped and best wishes.

Posted on Sep 01, 2009

  • 400 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 GMC Jimmy Need help trouble shooting. Turns over but won't

Fuel pump or injector assembly. Need to know what the fuel pressure is before throwing a part at it. By what you are saying I'm leaning tword the fuel pump. Make sure the wires at the top of the sending unit are not burn. There is a small 4 wire connector on the inside of the sending unit. If it's burnt you will need to replace both the pump and sending unit.

Posted on Oct 11, 2009

jturcotte
  • 8161 Answers

SOURCE: Rocker arm torque specs on a 97 gmc jimmy 4.3

  1. For the 4.3L engines which are equipped with screw-in type rocker arm studs with positive stop shoulders, tighten the rocker arm adjusting nuts against the stop shoulders to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm) on 1994-96 models and 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) on 1997-99 models. No further adjustment is necessary, or possible.
  2. For most 4.3L engines which are not equipped with screw-in type rocker arm studs and positive stop shoulders, properly adjust the valve lash. For details on valve lash adjustment, please refer to the procedure in Routine Maintenance . (see below)
4.3L Engine

The 4.3L engines may be equipped with either of 2 rocker arm retaining systems. If your engine utilizes screw-in type rocker arm studs with positive stop shoulders, no valve lash adjustment is necessary or possible. If however, you engine utilizes the pressed-in rocker arm studs, use the following procedure to tighten the rocker arm nuts and properly center the pushrod on the hydraulic lifter:
  1. To prepare the engine for valve adjustment, rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the damper pulley aligns with the 0? mark on the timing plate and the No. 1 cylinder is on the compression stroke. You will know when the No. 1 piston is on it's compression stroke because both the intake and exhaust valves will remain closed as the crankshaft damper mark approaches the timing scale.

Another method to tell when the piston is coming up on the compression stroke is by removing the spark plug and placing your thumb over the hole, you will feel the air being forced out of the spark plug hole. Stop turning the crankshaft when the TDC timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is directly aligned with the timing mark pointer or the zero mark on the scale.
The valve arrangement is as follows:



E-I-I-E-I-E (right bank-front-to-rear) E-I-E-I-I-E (left bank-front-to-rear)

  1. With the engine on the compression stroke, adjust the exhaust valves of cylinders No. 1, 5 & 6 and the intake valves of cylinders No. 1, 2 & 3 by performing the following procedures:
    1. Back out the adjusting nut until lash can be felt at the pushrod.
    2. While rotating the pushrod, turn the adjusting nut inward until all of the lash is removed.
    3. When the play has disappeared, turn the adjusting nut inward 1 3 / 4 additional turns.

  2. Rotate the crankshaft one complete revolution and align the mark on the damper pulley with the 0? mark on the timing plate; the engine is now positioned on the No. 4 firing position. This time the No. 4 cylinder valves remain closed as the timing mark approaches the scale. Adjust the exhaust valves of cylinders No. 2, 3 & 4 and the intake valves of cylinders No. 4, 5 & 6, by performing the following procedures:
    1. Back out the adjusting nut until lash can be felt at the pushrod.
    2. While rotating the pushrod, turn the adjusting nut inward until all of the lash is removed.
    3. When the play has disappeared, turn the adjusting nut inward 1 3 / 4 additional turn.

Posted on Sep 23, 2010

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1996 gmc jimmy will not shift to 3rd gear


Hi, It may be in LIMP mode.

What is "limp-home mode" ? This is a fault mode in which the transmission either loses electrical power or the PCM deactivates all of the electronics. The transmission will default to max line pressure. The driver will have Reverse and 3rd, with manual 2nd available by putting the gearshift in 2 or 1 (doesn't matter). 1st, 4th, and TCC lockup will not be available. It will not hurt the car to drive it like this for short periods, but use manual 2nd to get the car moving, and be aware that the trans will generate more heat than normal while operating in limp-home mode due to increased torque converter slippage during 2nd gear starts and no lockup in 3rd gear.

Common failures on 4L60E, symptom any possible repair:

Trans shifts into gear harshly, car feels sluggish off the line, No 1st, 4th or TCC lockup available, Manual 2nd, 3rd and Reverse are only available gears, CEL is on: Transmission is either in limp-home mode or has lost electrical power. If there are lots of error codes in the PCM, check the under-hood fuse that powers the transmission, and if it pops again, look for a short in that circuit like an O2 sensor harness touching exhaust. Otherwise, check PCM codes for a particular fault in the transmission causing the PCM to put it in limp-home mode.

No 1st or 4th available; trans shifts 2nd to 3rd by itself in D or OD and locks the converter :ShiftA solenoid failed. Easy fix in the pan. Or a wiring problem from PCM to trans.. or PCM.

Car goes into gear but feels very sluggish like the brakes are dragging, but it will roll easily (starts out in 4th gear), you manually shift to 2 to get it moving, once it's moving you put it back in OD and the car shifts 3rd to 4th on its own and locks the converter at the appropriate time: ShiftB solenoid failed: Easy fix in the pan. Or a wiring problem from PCM to trans.. or PCM.

Trans seems noisy when moving in 1st and Reverse, noise goes away instantly if you shift to N or the trans goes into 3rd gear: Reaction planetary is worn out due to high miles or insufficient lubrication. Not a critical failure, but not a good sign either. R&R sooner rather than later.

3rd gear starts, can manually shift through all gears. When car has been turned off for a bit, then back on it will run normally.: VSS dropoff w/ Hi-stall converter. The rpms are too high, but VSS is showing no movement. Happens after a tire burning take-off. Doesn't store a code, will not throw a CEL (I've heard that it will store a code if it happens 3 or more times). Cure: Reprogram PCM for VSS dropoff -- PCMforLess knows about it.

If you can get the Jimmy for no more then $500.00 and the engine sounds good and body is good, you may want to invest in the repair of the jimmy. Also note that to have a close look at the fuel line along the frame on the drivers side just by the back doors, the line is know to corroded there on all the SUV's

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