Question about 1993 Ford F250

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Why is the brake pedal stiff?

Brake pedal is extremely hard to press. slows it down but not good enough to drive it. it happened instantly... worked fine one minute then got hard to press the next.

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  • Ford Master
  • 633 Answers

You may have lost you brake assist. Look for any disconnected or broken hoses and vacuum leaks especially the one going to the brake booster. make sure that the check valve is good it should allow air through in one direction but not the other. if all checks out good apply vacuum to the power brake booster and make sure it hold if not replace the power brake booster.

Posted on Oct 27, 2012

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

fixincars
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SOURCE: My brakes grind and vibrate when pressed

My feeling is that you did not use a high quality pad like the Bendix or wagner thermo quiets and the rotors likely need surfacing even if they are new they can be warped due to the way they are stored. Good Bendix pads for this vehicle retail for around 75.00 or more

Posted on Aug 27, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Trans clunking when slowing down

Sounds like youi may have a few serious problems going on to have that kind of back lash occuring at higher speeds. I have experiance with low spped clunks on Bronkos and your type of vech being a car dealer. One you might try for low speed clunk on take off and braking at stop likts just completeing a stop? Pull the drive shaft and lubricate the splin - two check your leaf springs for weakness and wore bushings - take a look at your shocks - three u bolts holding springs to rear axle housing may be letting the axle housing actually dip or tweak or all those thing in combination - now you may have some serious slop in the pig - transfer case may be causing that clunk - as far as high spped clunk and activity you have a serous problem and you just might drop the transferr case have an accident fliping over..............Mike South Bend Indiana don't just keep driving and making problem worst...........

Posted on Sep 27, 2008

stormbrewin
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SOURCE: brake lights only work when

You will need to readjust the small switch that the brake pedal activates.it is small,black and has two wires on it.A simple case of winding it out a bit.Follow the brake pedal arm up under the dash.push pedal in and out a little and you will see the switch and the point that it touches the pedal arm

Posted on Nov 02, 2008

jgwhomeequip
  • 1902 Answers

SOURCE: Brake/ABS brake issue on 2001 Sport Trac?

Check for air in the system, Also check your brake calipers to make sure that the Pistons are not freezing or just locked up

Posted on Apr 13, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 75807 Answers

SOURCE: 89 f250 7.3 diesel, brakes went very stiff, still

the problem is caused by either a failed power brake booster vacuum diaphram or a loss of vacuum to the booster, most likely the booster is defective, if this is a diesel then check the enginge driven vacuum pump.

Posted on Oct 19, 2009

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Brakes do not work in cold weather. brakes pedal will go right to the floor with out slowing down. i have to pump the brakes several times to slow down. i have had car in dealership for the past 5


Man, you've spent some money without isolating the problem. Throwing parts at a problem is never a way forward. The brakes not working when its cold? When you pump the brakes does the pedal become hard/normal in cold weather or at any time? What happens if you plug the booster hose and start up, is the pedal hard instantly? You say there is engine oil in the booster? how much? What mileage has it done and is the engine in good condition ie serviced? I know this sounds silly but you haven't really got to what the dealer is supposed to have done for your money. I find it difficult to believe there is no experienced tech who couldn't work this out. He should do things like clamp off the flexi lines to each wheel in turn and then in pairs then all together etc with proper brake hose clamps to see if that makes a difference. He should be leaving it out in the cold and seeing for himself what happens.
Did the shop go through this sort of process? Careful checks and process of elimination is what gets to the bottom of these faults.

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Check the vacuum hose going to booster for restrictions or collapse. Was the master cylinder replaced?

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sounds like your power assist vacuum unit is dead. i.e. your power brakes. pump your brake pedal 3 times and hold it. turn on engine-if the pedal sinks to floor its the brake master cylinder, if it pulses and comes up with your foot on it its its neither but if it stays right where it is>? BINGO-power assist! good luck.

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the jerking may be due to uneven braking on either side of the car it may be that a piston is stuck. need to take car off the road remove tyres then brakecalipers a good indication that a piston is stuck is when you disconnect the brake lines and pull pads/caliper of the rotor the piston will be extremely hard to move

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Hello...get the vehicle back to the shop that worked on it....Sounds to me like one or more of the calipers won't release it's grip when you release the brake pedal or the master cylinder is locked...Think about it...it's like driving with your foot on the brake pedal....or maybe your power brake booster...anyway...Get it back to the shop that worked on it and bring your receipts for all the work done...Let me know what happens...I hope this was helpful...PEACE........

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My brakes randomly lock up on my 2004 chevorlet impala


If your brakes were "locking up" as you describe, it would be interesting to see. Brakes rarely self-apply. Lockup may occur after you apply the brakes as they may stick and won't release, but to have them just apply while driving is almost impossible. What you are describing sounds more to me like a massive vacuum leak. What this will do is reduce intake vacuum and steal all the power from the engine, and the brake pedal will go stiff as a result of the power brake booster losing its vacuum assist. You need to find the source of the vacuum leak and correct it.

Dec 07, 2011 | 2004 Chevrolet Impala

1 Answer

1992 F250 460 cid automatic 2w drive 85000 mi. Just replaced my master cylinder, all 4 brakes, and both front rotors. Afterward I blead the brakes and got bubbles out of fluid. Problem is : when not...


There is never a test or reason to pump your brakes

Accomplishes absolutely nothing.

There is no pressure in a braking system at all,
until you SLOWLY apply the brake pedal.

Then less than 1" off movement in the master cyl,
will develop 600 to 1800 lbs at the wheels

Release the brake pedal, the system goes to zero,
IT DOES NOT HOLD ANY PRESSURE

To answer your question

You not suppost to press the pedal hard
The saying goes--you apply the brakes,
not force the pedal arm and pin into the
vacuum booster, as though you want to damage it

When your driving what happens ?
You have higher manifold vacuum and
thus your pedal is normal,why the VACUUM
brake booster

Mar 31, 2011 | 1992 Ford F250

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My daughter was driving the 1993 jeep grand cherokee and she stepped on brakes to stop behind car and no brakes. just a few days before i had the brakes checked and they worked good and she had been...


What do you mean no brakes? pedal was stiff would not press down?, pedal went to floor? That needs to be checked. if there are no fluid leaks, I would suspect the master cylinder.

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remove the master cylinder and check the plunger projection make shore it is with in specs, using a vacuum pump check condition of capsule see if it holds the preasure and its not leaking off. if its leaking change capsule and check valve

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