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The rear hatch locking is computer contolled .
The BCM also runs diagnostics on the liftgate lock relay control circuit and will set DTC B3825 as current and also send a Class 2 message to the DIC. The DIC will display REPLACE LIFTGATE FUSE to inform the driver that a fault has been detected in the liftgate lock circuit and that the liftgate is not locked. Faults that will set the DTC and cause the DIC to display the message could be any of the following:
• An open ECC fuse
• An open or short to ground in the liftgate lock relay battery positive voltage circuit
• A faulty liftgate lock relay
• An open or short to ground in the liftgate lock relay control circuit
• A short to ground in the liftgate lock actuator lock control circuit
• A faulty BCM
The liftgate lock relay supply and coil sides receive a constant voltage through the battery voltage supply circuit and the ECC fuse. The normally closed contact is connected to ground and the control side is connected to the body control module (BCM). A lock function will occur when a door lock switch activation, keyless entry lock transmission, auto door lock function or a liftgate lock function has been received by the BCM. The BCM will then ground the control side of the liftgate lock relay. This energizes the relay and allows voltage to be applied to the liftgate lock actuator lock control circuit. Since the other side of the liftgate lock actuator is connected to the normally closed contacts of the door unlock relay to ground, the liftgate will lock. When an unlock function occurs the BCM will ground the control side of the unlock relay and the rear doors and liftgate will unlock.
The power door lock system consists of the following components:
• The driver door module (DDM)
• The passenger door module (PDM)
• The body control module (BCM)
• The driver information center (DIC)
• The rear door lock switch
• The door lock relay
• The door unlock relay
• The liftgate lock relay--utility vehicles with liftgate only
• The reversible door lock actuators in each of the doors and liftgate
• LOCKS 20A fuse (rear lock/unlock relay supply voltage)
• ECC 10A fuse (liftgate lock relay supply voltage)
If i were to guess i would say you mite need a new lock actuator , but i don't guess . You could take the hatch inside panel off an check for B+ voltage for the lock actuation as someone pushes the switch . Or have it checked for codes .
latch and lock are jammed from the hit will probably need to pry hatch over or lift while unlocking to open than adjust hatch or latch for proper working order also check relay and fuse hit may have also damaged wiring
Not sure about your car, but on my Chrysler mini van the same problem happened. The problem was not the motor but the body control module. The unit had 2 relays, but the BCM actualy controls the unit. To replace the BCM was $450. I bypassed the problem by installing an on/off switch inside the car and activated the motor by by passing the BCM at the relay. That was 3 years ago, still works great. Your BCM may be the problem. Check the schematics of the relays and try doing the same.
If you don't have the manuals, your local library has online access to most service manuals that you would have to pay for. Many time you can get access to them through their website if you have a library card. If not, go the library and get full free access to all the major car service manuals for free!
There are two fuses associated with the door locks system. The first is the Cigarette Lighter Fuse (Fuse 13 - 20A). This fuse provides power to the switches to activate the lock/motor relays. The second fuse is the PWR ACCY Circuit Breaker (30A). This provides the power thru the relay contacts to the lock solenoids/door motor. Both of the are in the Instrument Panel (IP) Fuse block.
Most probable cause is wiring to the rear hatch, particularly at the flexible wiring tubing at the top of the hatch door frame (with the door open). You may have to remove the lower panel on the cabin side of the door to release the lock.
Either the relay for the locks is bad or the fuse. When you push the power lock on the inside if the doors do not unlock then I would check the fuses, both inside and under the hood. If they do work then the relay/s may be bad. You are pushing your key button twice correct?
You will have to get into the rear from inside the car and remove the
rear hatch panel from the inside, then you will have access to the
linkage in the door and operate it manualy. If the rear hatch does not
operate with the remote(if it has power door locks) you might need an
Open the rear hatch. Pull off the inner trim panel. Look to see if there is a little box with a bunch of wires connected to it. It may be at the lower edge, driver side. Turn the key on. Test for 12 volts at the solid BLUE wire (there is only 1 solid blue wire) that is connected to the box. Is there power? If not, check the 30 amp POWER fuse. If there IS power, this box may be bad. This is the power window relay for the rear hatch. The wiper/washer and the rear window motor power all come out of this box.
Check for power & get back to me before you buy a relay box, there are a few other tests I could share with you before we pronounce the relay box bad...
There is a small hook on the right(driver side) of the latch that you can push with a screwdriver (it is hard to see you have to poke around a little)after you take the panel plug out of the rear door cover.I have the same problem I found that that the coil has become week and it does not have enough power to push the lath open. GOOD LUCK email@example.com