Question about Toyota Cars & Trucks
Today I Just back from getting an oil change and told me that my throttle body was dirty and told me that they can gme me a throttle body cleaning and fuel injection cleaning for 195, but i declined. So I went online and saw that it is really easy to clean it and i just brought a 3M Fuel System Tune-Up Kit to help me clean it. But, I just went to the car and can not find the throttle body. nobody post anything about cleaning a rav 4 throttle body but they post it for other cars. So i was wondering do anybody know exactly where it is??
Hi harry, the throttle body is the part mounted onto the intake manifold and is held in place by four bolts and nuts. One side fits onto the metal of the manifold with a gasket between, and the other side has the rubber ducting from the air cleaner. The throttle cable and kickdown cable are fitted to it. On the other side of the throttle body is the throttle position sensor. Do not carry out any adjustments to it. Cover it with a plastic bag and do not allow any cleaning fluid to contaminate it! Resetting the sensor requires special adjustments and very careful settings and can stop the engine from starting once refitted. Regards John
Posted on Oct 27, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Ford is notorius for bad breathing.There EGR system is terrible, it always causes a lot of carbon build up in the throttle plates. The best thing to do, is to take of the throttle body assembly and digg out the carbon thats restricting the air flow. Also, it is a good rule or thumb to clean the throttle plate with carb & throttle cleaner with a tooth brush. Add a bottle of fuel injector cleaner to a full tank of gas. While your doing all this you might as well change the EGR valve. If you follow the air intake pipe from the air filter box, it should lead you to the throttle body assembly. The EGR valve is located on the passenger side by the fire wall underneath the heater hoses and AC lines. Good luck, Ford engineers must have been drinking when they designed their vehicles, they don't make anything easy.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
The throttle body is where the carburetor used to be, in the middle top of the intake manifold where the air intake tube ends.
Use a major brand "Fuel throttle body cleaner" in your gas tank every 6 months or so. Don't use store brand. Ther eis also a spray for the linkage, etc. Use that too... and spray into the throttle body with engine running. Don't let the engine die while spraying into the throttle body.
Posted on Sep 30, 2009
I can add two two extra possible causes:
1) faulty coolant temperature sensor/low coolant/air in coolant. When the engine is started from the cold the ECU enriches the fuel mix to keep the engine idling; this explains why engines idle high (1000 -1200rpm) at start up. As the engine warms up the coolant temperature sensor signals this and the ECU shortens the injection cycle to eventually bring the engine down to a steady idle (700-800rpm). How to check? Most often the coolant sensor is quite
separate to the temperature sender, so a correct read-out on the dash
board does not necessarily indicate correct sensor function. Using a
voltmeter the resistance across the electrical terminals on the sensor can be
measured. By removing the device from
the car and putting the end of the sensor in a pan of hot water it should be
possible to see an immediate change in resistance, it does not matter so much
that the resistance goes up or down but that there is a disernable resistance change
with change in temperature. Generally
high resistance equates to cold temperatures and vice versa. If there is no resistance
change commensurate with temperature change then the sensor is at fault. If there is simply no resistance measurable
(open circuit) then the sensor is at fault. If the sensor is working correctly
check the connector, the wiring and the wiring insulation for faults and
2) faulty oxygen sensor on the exhaust manifold. If the oxygen sensor indicates that there is too much oxygen in the exhaust the ECU will enrich the fuel mix to compensate. How to check? An issue with oxygen sensors is that they steadily lose effectiveness with age and they can under perform for quite a while before they trigger an error code on the ECU. Ensure the connection to the oxygen sensor is robust and clean. As the oxygen sensor only works when hot there is the danger of getting burnt by working on it so a safe approach is to find the electrical connection on the wiring harness remote from the oxygen sensor and to make voltage measurements there. Most garages have systems that can record the amplitude and frequency of the voltage peaks being produced by the oxygen sensor. A less sophisticated means to get some impression of the oxygen sensor function is to use a moving coil galvanometer type voltmeter (analogue needle on dial). Setting the voltage range to 1 volt and by attaching the meter leads across the sensor wires it should be possible to see the rhythmic pulsing and the voltage range of the operating sensor output. If no pulses are seen it could be either a break in the wire or a fault with the sensor itself.
Posted on Dec 09, 2010
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