Question about 1988 Toyota Pickup

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Blew the AM 1 80 amp fuse when replaced we tried to reconnect the battery it tried to blow the fuse again almost welding the fuse to the connectors what will cause this?

Smelled something burning before it blew the first time

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  • Toyota Master
  • 2,122 Answers

Hi Bill A very serious short circuit. Find out where the problem is before reconnecting. Regards John

Posted on Oct 27, 2012

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1861 Answers

SOURCE: T100 tail lights & dash light keep blowing fuses

If this vehicle has a trailer harness, that could be the problem; it could be shorted out. Additionally, if there is no trailer harness, look under the truck bed at the rear, look for a grey wiring connector that wires come out of, and run to the taillamps. I have observed corrrosion in this connector, which will result in a short circuit. You may find it necessary to cut the connector out and resplice the wires back together (eliminate the connector), if severe corrosion is indeed present.

Posted on Dec 31, 2008

MrScary66613
  • 1990 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 Highlander headlight keeps blowing fuse

In the Fuse Relay Box under the Hood there is a Headlight Relay. Replace this Relay along with a New Fuse and it should work. Let me Know. Please Rate my Response, I need all the Help That I can Get! Thanks!

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

  • 104 Answers

SOURCE: the audio/clock fuse blew and every time I replace the 15w fuse it blows

i would try to unplug the clock and the radio change the fuse and see if the fuse blows.

Posted on Apr 30, 2009

superjorge1
  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: Toyota Avalon 120 amp main fuse removal.

you have to loosen the mounting bolts on the fuse panel and on the bottom side the fuse is held in by 2 8 millimeter bolts.

Posted on Nov 17, 2009

Testimonial: "Very helpful and exactly right. Saved my neighbor a towing charge to the dealer. His car is back up and running. Thank you!!! "

sisadsl
  • 1508 Answers

SOURCE: ACC fuse blew & radio and clock stopped working

there is a short somewhere in the acc circuit, probably not in the radio\clock, check anything else on the circuit like interier lights,

Posted on Apr 17, 2010

Testimonial: "Great response!"

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1 Answer

What would cause a fuse to blow out as soon as the battery is plugged in?


If problem on wiring circuit somewhere, replacing the parts won't fix it. If fuse 17--10 amp that fuse circuit is hot all the time. You have a short. Disconnect the wiring connector from generator, does the circuit still go to ground. Instead of blowing your fuses, use a test light across the fuse terminals, if the lite comes on, the circuit is still going to ground. Some don't like to use test lite for that test, but, anyway.
Could be problem with fuse box or the wire circuit from fuse to generator. Make sure generator wire connector doesn't show any signs of heating/melting or anything.
If you think the problem is the white wire with black tracer, you might leave a pigtail wire at both ends, hopefully the pigtails are good, then splice in a new wire for testing. If that fixes it, then make the new splices permanent and route the new wire properly.
generator 1-mgkxnf303xgr2hvssd3liypr-1-0.jpg

generator 2-mgkxnf303xgr2hvssd3liypr-1-2.jpg

May 06, 2017 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Why does the fuse immediately blow on my power door locks? how to fix this?


You have a short somewhere in the system. Maybe one of the lock actuators or a switch. To test disconnect all locks and switch then replace fuse if don't blow start with driver door and reconnect lock check fuse see if it blew if not reconnect switch active lock check fuse see if ok. Continue with each door separate using same steps until fuse no good you will have found short. Replace shorted part.

Apr 30, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

New fuel pump, ccrm and fuel filter and still blowing 20 amp fuel pump fuse


If the components are all good, then check wiring connectors and wiring circuits, it appears the problem is after the ccrm. wiring from ccrm to fuel pump. For testing you should be able to use jumper wire with inline 20 amp fuse, from voltage to fuel pump connector, to see if it will run w/o blowing the fuse. As you can see from ccrm to inertia switch there are two connectors. From inertia switch to fuel pump, one connector. There are many ways to test. With connectors unplugged, you could use a test lite connected to battery voltage, touch correct wire terminal, if lite comes on, that circuit is going to ground, somewhere.
See that one wire that goes down, wire circuit from ccrm to inertia switch, that wire goes to pcm, I believe it to a monitor circuit, the pcm monitors the voltage on that circuit.
fuel pump mustang-cnoq2pfwcs5zpwrvfs0kgho1-3-0.jpg

Aug 01, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

120 amp fuse


It sounds as if your battery may have come to the end of it's life and needs replacing. You need to get someone, preferably a garage to check your battery. If the 120 amp fuse is blowing then their could be other electrical faults on the vehicle. Do not replace the fuse without getting the battery and electrics checked out first.

Feb 14, 2013 | 2006 Mazda MPV

1 Answer

I have a 1994 Ford Thunderbird LX V8. A few months ago when I put the car in park, the air conditioner and the battery amp guage quit working. I found a fuse that was bad and I replaced it and then the...


I'm betting it has something to do with the shift lock actuator or the harness to the actuator. I'm pretty sure it is located on the top of the steering column on your vehicle. The lower part of the dash will need to be removed and then the steering column lowered in order to gain access to it.

This vehicle does have an airbag and unless you experience with airbag systems I would not recommend tackling this yourself.

unplug the interlock. Replace the fuse. Start the vehicle. with your foot on the brake manually release the interlock with you hand and shift through the gears. If the fuse does not blow your on the right track. If the fuse does blow let me know and I'll get you some more info.

Let me know if you have any questions and thank you for using Fixya.com

Oct 25, 2011 | 1994 Ford Thunderbird

1 Answer

I have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier. A couple of months ago, just after starting the car one day, the 'check engine' and 'trac off' lights both came on. I immediately shut off the car, waited approximately 5...


Many cars have the cooling fan on a thermostat or time delay, to allow it to run for a short period of time after the engine turns off, to cool the engine off. You may have just never noticed it before. So I wouldn't worry about that.
Your real problem is the blowing fuses, apparently you have a short somewhere in your wiring. Putting in bigger and bigger fuses is a great way to set fire to your wiring harness. It's possible that the wire is pinched or chafed somewhere, and perhaps when you hit a bump just right, it touches and shorts.
You may have to take this to the Chevy dealer or a GOOD independent shop to have them chase it down. Unless someone out there knows exactly what this is, it could be a tough one to find.

Apr 26, 2011 | Chevrolet Cavalier Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Have charged the battery on my 1999mitsubishi mirage


you may connecting it wrongly , please check +ve and-ve both pole are to be fix with proper wire, if will do wrong it will blow fuse.

Jan 31, 2010 | 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage

1 Answer

Fog lights keeps blowing fuses


Obviously a short somewhere. Check sockets for corrosion, rust etc where current could be traveling across, as well as take a look at wiring into rear if you can get to it. One other thing you could try to isolate, would be to try one bulb in at a time, perhaps one will cause fuse to blow & other won't, which will give you a reference point to start looking.

Jun 27, 2009 | 2005 Buick Rainier

1 Answer

Power window blows fuse


Problem fixed as follows:
Purchase a package of five 30 amp ALC type fuses. Replace blown fuse #8 (30 amp). Perform the following test to determine if the problem is isolated to the driver-side front window.
-One at a time, (i.e. only push one window switch button at a time) operate each of the other three windows (passenger side and rear driver side), to determine if the problem is occuring only on the driver side window. If any of them blows the fuse, replace it with a spare and proceed to test the next window. Repeat for each of the three windows. The process described below may also resolve the issue on the other windows if any of them blew the fuse during this test.
-Now, operate the switch for the driver side window. It is expected to work for a brief period (<1sec), but may very quickly blow fuse #8. Replace fuse #8 with one of the new 30 amp ALC fuses.
Remove the door panel, by sliding the speaker forward and removing the three white clips on the bottom of the panel. Also, pry out the screw clip in the panel well, just to the rear of the switch assembly, and remove the plastic bracket that holds in the switch assembly. The panel can now be lifted off.
To access the window mechanism, remove the tape over the oval cutouts near the top. Also, temporarily pull back the white plastic cover over the bottom of the door. Disconnect the white electrical connector near the center of the door (has only a red and black wire for the regulator motor). Using a small battery (motorcycle battery) and jumper leads test the mechanism's operation by connecting the battery directly to the motor wires. Use insulated test clips on the male connector and be careful not to short the clips together. The window mechanism should operate, and by interchanging the jumper wires (reversing battery power polarity), you can make the window go both up and down. Only do this for brief periods of time, as the motor circuit is now uprotected, i.e. there is no fuse in this test circuit. If the movement of the glass seems strained over part of the travel path, apply WD-40 lubricant to the metal rotating pivot point. Also apply silicone spray to the rail guides for the sides of the glass (with the window in the up position) and to the metal horizontal tracks and plastic wheels near the top of the mechanism. Also, spray some silicone lubricant along the bottom of the window on the outside, just above the rubber stripping, and operate the window a couple of times. An up and down test should now result in very smooth and even window movement. Reconnect the motor power wire to its mating connector, replace the tape and white plastic cover, and then replace the door panel. The mechanism should work smoothly, and the fuse should not blow. Total cost: $3.03 for fuses and a little WD-40 and silicone spray which you probably keep on hand.

May 17, 2009 | 1994 Volvo 940

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