Question about Cars & Trucks
Car is fine while it is idling but as soon as you drive it, the car overheats, makes a whining noise, smokes, and starts to throw cold air. I replaced the thermostat and bled the air out of the radiator, but still have the same issues. When the car smokes it smells like coolant and the smokes comes from the drivers side of the radiator. The cooling fans kick on and run.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Question that I pose is:
Is the car overheating or are you assuming it is as the gauge is telling you that it is?
There are two cheap and simple things that are not mentioned in this post. There is an Engine coolant temp sensor which in all of their innane wisdom Saturn built with a plastic tip and we all know plastic melts fairly easily. This part is a simple fix as it needs a 13mm deep socket and that is it for tools to replace it and it is $10 - $15 for a new on with a copper tip. There is also an Engine coolant temp switch which sends information to the PCM to tell the gauge what the reading should be. Aslo $10 - $15 and a 13MM deep socket to replace. These are common issues with the S Series Saturns. I do however recomend that if you are going to replace them yourself that you empty the radiator of coolant as the sensor and switch are directly in the engine block coolant flow and will give you a nice little shower if you do not at least jack the drivers side up before replacing them.
Posted on Dec 02, 2008
cool air and overheating point to low coolant level. Do you have a bleeder valve near the thermostat? You may have air trapped in the system. If no air trapped, the radiator may be plugged up not allowing proper circulation of coolant.
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
your fan is the problem...it's not turning fast enough to cool the engine off. I need more info on what type of fan you have....elec fan or a clutch fan?
Posted on Apr 24, 2009
SOURCE: 1991 camaro rs overheating
Flushing the cooling system has its drawbacks. I you needed one freeze plug, you can reasonably suspect the others are surely right close to failure.In this case, starting to fail one at a rime weakest first. Now, as far as the other issues are concerned. What is the question? Sounds like the tazmanian devil had too much time on hand. I don't know the qualifications or integrity of your mechanic, but I do know a reputable, as well asa professional mechanic is not likely to intentionally or even bother to, contribute to these describe issues. Ocassional blue smoke is an internal problem, The AC is an issue in itself, The caalyctic converter is an issue that is too messy, smrlly thing to deal with. Any evisence of how and of what it was gutted? What was repaired or listed as repaired on your invoice? And what state are you in? It appears you may be seeking legal advice and in this forum it would not be an appropriate place to seek it. You may want to refer this to an Attorney for assistance.. Good luck and I hope you reach some resolve on this matter.
Posted on May 30, 2009
Since you changed your waterpump, you need to do an air bleed...
This is INSANELY important!
The airbleed is mounted on the top of the radiator on the passenger side.
Its made of plastic, has a seal, and looks like a 1/2 inch (12mm) philips screw head.
To do this, make sure the engine is cold and not running.
Use a large FLAT HEAD screw driver and turn it counter clockwise.
It might be very tight, so be prepared for a bit of torque to turn it!
Unscrew it, and look in the hole.
Coolant should be at the top of the bottom of the screw hole.
It should be low, so add coolant to the open hole.
While doing this, be sure the radiator cap is off so you can balance the fluid level properly.
Why do you need to bleed the system?
The engine has a slight tilt upwards toward the radiator, and both your waterpump, and block will have a tendancy to leave air near the top of the block and heads.
This is a common mistake on several makes after a coolant change.
Make sure all fluids are topped off, fill the overflow tank to its max level indicated on the tank itself and your done.
Provided you havent been driving long on the car in this condition, it shouldnt blow a headgasket.
A good way to know if the headgasket is bad is the radiator cap will have a brownish "slime" indicating combustion gasses are getting into the cooling system.
IF this is the case, your engine is pumping combustion gasses into your system and no amount of air bleeding with help.
Another tell tale sign of coolant being pressurized, is a overflowing "overflow" tank, and a sudden blast from Normal operating temprature to HOT, and then suddenly.. it goes back to Normal again.
There is usually a "gurgling" sound under your dash..
Lets assume you just need to do an air bleed, and things will go back to normal.
Also, if your airbleed screw has alittle coolant leaking around it, replace it with a new one as the seal and plastic have worn due to age.
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
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