Question about 2003 Ford E250
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1976 ford f100 pickup 2wd
The brake bias valve can cause your symptom.Are the outer part of the brake calipers able to slide in and out freely .Jack it up take a wheel off and get someone to push on the brake pedal while you check for correct movement.Lube the slides so it is easier for calipers to return.a chunck of 4x2 wood is useful if you find them too hard to move by hand
Posted on Oct 09, 2008
Very simple. Have the proper tools for one. Two...lay cardboard down because the brake dust will make some cruddy marks on the pavement. Three...are replacing the WHOL:E caliper or just replacing/resealing the piston?
Very simple to do, just make sure you block the rear wheels or front (depending on which one you are doing).
Unbolt the two carrier bolts, one upper and one lower. These are commonly hex head or "allen" head fastners. Next, have a small container under the hose you will be disconnecting. I hope you have some help to bleed.....you will need to do so. Get the extra brake fluid ahead of time....that's all you need to do really...and once you unblot and disconnect, the brake caliper should be sitting in your lap!
Posted on Mar 12, 2009
1 Siphon off the old brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir under the hood.
2 Fill the reservoir with new brake fluid (don't reuse old fluid as it holds moisture and will corrode your brake system).
3 Start with the brake farthest from the Master cylinder, usually rear wheel, passenger side. Pull off the rubber cover on the bleeder valve. Attach the aquarium air line to the nipple on the bleeder.
4 Have your assistant pump the brake pedal up and down 3-4 times, then hold the pedal down fairly hard.
5 Open the bleeder, let fluid flow out through the air line into a waste container. (preferrably a clear bottle so you can see any air bubbles escaping the system). When the fluid stops and your assistant's foot hits the firewall (brake pedal all the way down), close the bleeder valve immediately!
6 Go to step #4 above and drain more fluid out of the bleeder valve until clean fluid comes out. Check the master cylinder every time and top it up as necessary. This procedure uses lots of fluid.
7 Now move to the rear brake on the driver's side. Go to step #4 and repeat the same procedures above until clean fluid comes out of the bleeder valve and no bubbles.
8 Next is the front brake, passenger side, same procedure. Then the drivers side and the same procedure.
9 When finished check for any leaks, remount rubber covers on the bleeder valve nipples. Remount all wheels, re-torque lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving.
10 Start vehicle and depress the brake pedal. It should feel much less spongy than before this procedure. If not, there is air in the system, start over. Bleed everything again.
Note: if you assistant releases the brake pedal before you can close the bleeder valve then air will be introduced into the brake lines. This is no good! Before you start tell your assistant you will tell him/her PUMP, HOLD DOWN, RELEASE commands.
That's it, you're done. Congratulate yourself on saving some cash instead of handing it over to a mechanic.
Posted on May 13, 2009
the small rubber boot around the piston is either off or has a hole, which let water in and rusted the piston to the cylinder
also can be caused by a hot caliper submurged in water
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
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